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Shakadula

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Posts posted by Shakadula

  1. John D1956:  me too but apparently not. I have checked several sources ( Chevelle guys and my friend who I affectionately refer to as a Buick bigot because “they stopped making cars after 1967” when he bought his first GS).  The tank might be the same but the filler neck is different. 
     

    I did find a radiator shop about an hour away that said they could perform the welding job but that will be my last resort. 
     

    thanks for the reply. 

  2. Looking for a Fuel tank with filler neck for a 67 GS400 Convertible.  Found other 67 A-Body tanks but not Buick. People are telling me to cut the neck off of the old one and weld it onto a new tank without the filler neck (found that tank on RockAuto). This can’t be right.  Or can it. I would really prefer a new tank with the filler neck already installed. Thought or suggestions on how I might proceed. Maybe a workaround on getting something to work on the tank that does not have the filler neck. Thanks. 

  3. Thanks NTX. I did take out the old fluid and replaced it as well as added a lucas stop leak. I am not a fan of any kind of stop leak product but I needed another year out of this but it ain't gonna happen. 

     

    I will take a shot at a rebuild this winter when the car is on jack stands. I have a boatload of work to do on this car. Brakes don't work well. New wheel cylinders and rubber brake lines and they still don't work right. I have antifreeze in my oil. Got a new timing cover to fix that issue. My engine vacuum is 12 but steady. I guess I have a leak somewhere. And something is funky with my differential gears. Slipping I think. So thanks for your help on the power steering issue. 

  4. Don't know if this makes sense but I switched to syn oil and my rope seals leaked like crazy. These new rope seals are not like the seals of old. Anyway I put the suggested oil back and and the seals still leaked. It wasn't until i replaced the new rope seals with newer rope seals did the leaks stop. And I do mean front and rear seals. 

     

    So I blame the rope seals for not being able to use syn oil. An observation and not based on any facts. 

  5. Rivnut, thanks for the pictures.  I have a 67 Gs400 with a/c and need to replace my vacuum actuator control on the heater - a/c box but didn't know what look for inside the box. Now I know thanks to your pictures.

     

    My gs manual states to take off the front passenger fender to remove the bolts from the box. I think this is nuts but thought i would check with some of you all before i undertake that task. I just see lining up my fenders as a no win for me. They are straight as an arrow now and i don't want to mess it up. Can i undo the top bolts, maybe loosen up the bottom bolts and try to insert the actuator / bolts in the opening at the top?  

     

    Thoughts?  

  6. Thanks everyone. I agree it would be best to just replace it. I was looking for the cheap way out so i will try the epoxy with a sealent or JB weld as I have both. If that doesn't work then I will just freeze cause I need a $500 timing cover. Mine is a bit warped and I don't know how long it will last.

    Thanks again for all of the suggestions.

  7. Hi all, I broke the vacuum valve on my heater assembly box in the engine bay. Broke right in half when I smacked it with the exhaust manifold when I put the engine back in the car.

    My question is can I glue or weld this unit to be airtight so I can once again operate my heater? All suggestions are appreciated. I have attached two pictures illustrating the 2 halves.

    Thanks

    post-76612-0-98612900-1441225490_thumb.j

    post-76612-0-26027100-1441225508_thumb.j

  8. Got them off finally. Had to make a tool using a rental puller from home depot a 3 1 foot lengths of chain. Photo attached. I had to hack saw 3 1520 lb hooks to fit the chain cause the s hooks I initially used were not strong enough. They broke.

    Seems the issue was a lip around the end of the drum lining. The puller made the difference. Never did cut the pins but that would have been the next step.

    Thanks everyone for your help. Now for the bearings.

    post-76612-0-26914600-1433713545_thumb.j

    post-76612-0-46423000-1433713556_thumb.j

  9. John, I played with both adjusters, up and down, where max'ing out in both positions causing the drums to stop spinning. So now the adjusters are in the middle and I have play in the drum as well as spinning. I WD'd 40'd like crazy last night so maybe that will help. I am ready to bust the backing plate to make this happen so that is why I Thought I would drill out the springs.

    Appreciate your feedback.

  10. Well after 2 hours into this half hour brake job I can't get the drums off. They turn and are loose around the studs but nothing works. Next step is to drill out the spring pins.

    I am assuming these drums are out of spec and out od round but I will check with the gauge I ordered from Amazon. Now for my question..........

    Where can I get new front drums? These old ones have that nasty asbestoes in them and a friend (real old school) told me to just sand them down. He is a good guy and a wealth of knowledge but I think he maybe missed the boat on that suggestion. The new drums I see online that state a good fit do not look like my big finned old drums. Any suggestions

    Thanks.

  11. Thanks for getting back to me. My issuse was stink bugs in oil pickup tube cause I had it laying on the floor of the garage for months while I rebuilt my motor. Didn't blow it out before I reinstalled it. Stupid really but live and learn. Took me days and days to figure it out.

  12. So it has been years on and off and this tach does not work. Any thoughts on using the parts from a newer working tach and using my old dial face to have the advantage of new electronics with the stock appearance? This must be what the restoration guys do for 400.00. I can't spend that much. Hope I explained this well.

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