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Steve B

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Posts posted by Steve B

  1. Adam,<P>Let me try to help you with this one more time. Then do as you will. The harmonic balancer is not subject to the same amount of instant load as the drive shaft. When was the last time you dropped your harmonic balancer in drive and had it move the whole car instantly. Year in and year out, these loads fatigue the rubber and metal in the shaft. The point of the rubber in the shaft was to absorb some of shock of that load. The point of the rubber in the balancer is to help distribute vibrations.

  2. There is currently no one making cast pistons for the 425. Dynagear stoped in December. There are some sets out there at a premium. Sets that were $250 a few months ago are now $400 or more. Classic Buick has them at $360. They are at: <A HREF="http://www.classicbuicks.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.classicbuicks.com/</A> I have decided to have a forged set made by J+E for my 425. At least I can get one made if somthing happens. It will be increasingly hard to get good cast ones. <P>Classic Buick also has a few cams, but Poston and Kenne Bell have a wider selection. Carmen Faso from J+C's Parts in NY, (716)693-4090, will also have all the Nailhead parts you need. I have a lot of quality parts from him. He is great at helping people set up their Nailhead combinations. He is very helpful, and may be is too available for his own good. Good luck.

  3. Adam,<P>You are talking about 35 year old rubber and a shaft with 35 years of fatigue. Many big block cars came with them, but they were not fatigued or rotten from the factory. When they split, it happens at the back by the dampener, not in the front where a safety loop would be. The remaining one foot piece stays attached to yoke on the rear and whips around under there damaging anything in its path until you stop. I guess you could trust it, but from experience I would not. <P>You could look for a four speed shaft as they were one piece and had no dampener. If anything, it would be too long and would need to be cut down and balanced. You could also have a new one made cheaper than you think. I think it's just good insurance and certainly no place to cut corners with an old worn shaft.

  4. I've had the KB 1 7/8" and the TA 2" headers in my 67 with a 455. The KBs required some dings by the steering column. TAs needed a few dings there and by the upper A arm bushing on the right side. I would not have the TA pipes coated until you "fit" them.<P>------------------<BR>Steve B.<BR>67 GS W/455<BR>66 Nailhead Convertible<BR>

  5. Please let me know if you have a clutch and brake pedal set that will fit a 66 GS Skylark with a manual trans at a reasonable price. I think pedals from 64-67 manual trans Skylarks, Specials, GSs and wagons will work.<P>Thanks <P>------------------<BR>Steve B.<BR>67 GS W/455<BR>66 Nailhead Convertible<BR>

  6. Good right fender for pass side wanted for a 66 Skylark. No rot, can have some workable dents. I am in the eastern Pa area. Have Suburban, will travel 3-4 hours, or will pay reasonable shipping.<P>------------------<BR>Steve B.<BR>67 GS W/455<BR>66 Nailhead Convertible<BR>

  7. I am looking for a rebuildable 425 short block (good block, crank and rods). A pan that would fit a 425 into a 66 GS Skylark would be a bonus. I am not sure if all or any 425 pans would accomplish that. I am in the eastern Pa area, and I would travel 5 hours or so to pick one up. Please email me if you can help. <P>------------------<BR>Steve B.<BR>67 GS W/455<BR>66 Nailhead Convertible<BR>

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