Willis38

Once again, great information on site by all of you out there. Your help greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your knowledge. Lots of problems can occur and possibly do some damage. Going out on a limb here, but guessing you'd recommend finding a smog pump and hope to find somewhere that will show how the whole process is hooked up.

Bought an old '85 full size Bronco, 4.9L straight 6, previous owner removed smog pump and "some vac lines" plugged, but not all. Cleaned up lines and did more plugging at most carb ports. The vac diagram is present on front of vehicle, lots of abbreviations and not really sure what should and not be plugged with pump removed. Engine idles rough so no doubt something in the vac area is either plugged or should't be plugged. As for the EGR, I've seen it said to remove and block and don't remove? Replace carb and possibly run into ignition module system probs, I sure don't know? It's pretty stock, with the EEC IV and feedback carb. Don't want to tie anyone up with having to do long response, I could only find 1 video somewhat related but not that much help, if anyone has a reference on what to do if smog pump removed, I'd appreciate it. It's one thing to do if I were the one to remove the pump and related, not the case as done before I got it. Thanks for any help

Agree on that, overanxious, frustrated, just didn't think it through. Bad Move!

Ok on impact. I think I've got some pics, will be putting axle back in

Puller - if you look at Keith's video, I am using the same exact puller. Viewed video again, had seen it before, a good one, I've spent hrs of research on this and think I've seen all out there. Yes, back plate bolts were first removed, now have cylinder, shoes, etc off back plate. How did axle come out? - slide hammer bolted to lug threads, hoping to budge hub, axle came out instead! Agree and thought of putting axle back in, once up to good pressure can't fully hold in vice. Put back plate back on? May be missing something but appears to me that back plate won't come off over hub, so it's still on, bolts out and all attachments so freed up. Will try to get a pic on here today if I can. Due to being in the family, I would say this hub has been on there 83yrs! Sure amazed to see Keith's hub come off with impact wrench, I have one but sure it isn't enough umph to do the job, maybe time for an upgrade. But one would think that when axle in and a socket on there with a near 4' pipe on socket that would create enough pressure but no budge. All I can do now is thank you all for hanging with me, get a pic on here and stay at it!

Great advice and tips from all and greatly appreciated. Good hub pic by keithb7, as I suspected that drum is "riveted" to the hub, as I said before, neighbor mechanic must have done brakes & he couldn't get hub/drum off so he drilled those rivets out for access, some are now threaded for short bolts to secure them. Hub stuck then, hub stuck now, rats. The puller I'm using is quite hefty, but not dog bone type so a minus there. Recently I've added another possible negative aspect to the saga - hooked up the nice SnapOn hammer puller, 8-10 good whacks and "movement", wow got it, what I got was the hub along with the axle shaft! So now I guess it's the same process you all suggested, but hopefully being able to hold that shaft well in my vice. Did take it all to machinist and due to the back brake plate you can't get behind the hub to try pushing it off. Brake shoes not a factor as drum is off. I agree on the danger of heat so have shied away from that. With hub facing "up" in vice I have been able to dose it good with Kroil, might help? Will try the bit at a time pressure you suggested. What a great site here, being able to find good helpful people like all of you!

Thanks for that info Craig. No harm tossing the ole mount as you have them and the pumps, glad I can clear out a little bit of stuff then! As for seal, I already have that but good to know and keep in mind you have many parts if needed. Thanks

After years and of working on the '38 Ply, I have various extra parts now that are taking up room and rather than toss them, figured I'd check to see if anyone needs them as once gone they are gone. Off a '38 but are from a '38 or '39 motor, similar have had both in process, basically same motors.. Distributor - Oil Pan - Flywheel - Upper Trunk Hinges - Starter - Generator - Front Motor Mount. Also have water pump, not sure I want to get rid of but if anyone in dire need? Old Gas Gauge "Stick", good condition, Old Model T?, don't know. Can send pics, prefer via text

Thanks again for the advice. You sure solved one question as to the drum & hub being together, I didn't know for sure. I have a theory about why they are separated, but don't know for sure. My grandfather bought this '38 new, at one point it sat for some time and couldn't get running. So sold it to a mechanic neighbor. He got it running so bought it back, so since '38 it's been out of the family for 3 mos. I'm just guessing that he put back shoes on it and couldn't get that drum/hub off so he just separated them to get the drum off. Not important, just the only thing I can come up with. You and the others were great to lend help!!

I understand about the seal and it's location. "I" did NOT remove the hub from the drum, it was already separated, no problem getting drum off, it's the hub that is still there that I can't get off. It appears as the hub is riveted to the drum, or should be? I'm just going by my repair manual that indicates an outer and inner bearing and seal, perhaps incorrect. My thought is that if the hub and drum are one, as it should be, both would come off at the same time, somewhere along the line someone separated them for who knows why, so with the drum off and hub still on there, one would think that hub would still come off. Appears I need to replace the hub/drum, but still remains I gotta get that hub off. Thanks for your help.

Thanks to all again. I did review Keith's video again. This time noticed another big item - when he pulls, off comes the hub and it contains the bearing and "sleeve" bearing is in, at that point there is a problem. That bearing sleeve that comes off with his hub, is attached to the hub by 5 studs/bolts, those bolts are missing on mine so the hub comes off separate from that "sleeve"/flange (terminology?), the round metal plate which has the lug nut threads. I've been using the same puller Keith used, bolted to the lug nut threads, so I'm pulling on the same sleeve, just without the hub on there. That's why I commented before I'd try it with the hub on, made no difference; will get some 3/8 short bolts to secure hub to sleeve/flange

Thanks for all advice given. I had watched Keith's video before, but I missed one important item. I have been trying to remove the tapered shaft "with drum off", he shows it with drum on! His video is for a front wheel, I'm working on a rear but assume they will be same/similar. Have tried all other items mentioned, going out there now to see how it goes as Keith showed, will report back.

Want to replace rear axle outer seal, need to get flange off to access. Have tried heavy duty commercial 3 leg puller to lug nut threads, 4' pipe on socket and no budge. Have not tried slide hammer yet. Not recommended to heat much so only put some propane heat on it, no help. I find nothing in manual about a locking pin, bolt, etc. Have brake backing plate loosened. Can anyone give any advice on getting the flange off??