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20 T Speedster

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Posts posted by 20 T Speedster

  1. FS: Two Corcoran brass carbide head lights, ca. 1906-1910, for parts or restoration. Along with the usual dings and fatigue cracks, there are some splits in the brass of one of the bodies and one bracket is missing. The original lenses are gone, as is the reflector in the second light. I don't think the reflector in the first light is a real Mangin mirror; it looks to me like a clock glass that's been silvered. The good part is that both smoke bonnets are in desirable condition with nice crisp lettering. Asking $300 not including shipping.

     

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    Thanks for looking!

  2. Found in a stash of 1920's Buick parts - It's similar to those used on the 1919-1923 Essex, but not an exact match. The adjustable mount on the gear box suggests a low-volume production of an "assembled" car. Any thoughts?

     

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    Thanks for looking!

     

  3. Free: 3 pcs. Truck Rat Rod Trumpet Horn Electric Mechanisms by EA LABORATORIES, P/N 4-50 H2.  Includes electrical mechanisms with coils, armatures, breakers, and diaphragms, from EA Laboratories trumpet horns, p/n 4-50 H2. These look to be in pretty good condition although I have not tested them. 5" diameter. Good quality parts. They are yours if you'll just pay for shipping.  Thanks for looking!

     

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  4. Another long shot - I have some castings that were made probably in the 1960's for some early car - most likely from the brass era. The only clue is a P/N cast into  some of them: 49703L. The overall length is just over 6 inches and the hole  is 5/8".

    Anyone recognize these?
    Should I save them or scrap them?

     

     

    4970301.jpg

  5. Here's a dashboard oil pressure gauge by National Gauge of the type commonly used in the late teens and early 1920s, except it goes up to 75PSI. This makes me think it fits a high-performance car or something kind of special from that era. Any thoughts?

     

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    • Like 1
  6. FS: Stromberg O-3 carburetor, in "Barn Find" condition. I believe this fits a Marmon 34 c. 1922. Note the distinctive choke horn. This type of carburetor was also used on some Pierce Arrows from the 1920's. This is a big carburetor, bore is approx 1 5/8. Looks mostly complete and rebuildable - the two screws holding the float bowl cover are missing but the float and needle valve are still here. Asking $100 not including shipping.  

     

    os301.jpg.6cc187da093918ddaf28f48aeb74ae2b.jpg

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    Thanks for looking!

     

  7. FS: one Edmunds & Jones "1908" "Black & Brass" tail lamp for a Model T Ford, ca. 1914, or possibly very late 1913, fits other makes as well. Refurbished, stripped to bare metal. Repairs were made to the fount collar but for the most part this light was left as-is. The glass is original. A burner is not included. This light was polished professionally after re-assembly. There are a few minor dings and scratches but otherwise this light looks very presentable. A nice original "black & brass" fount is included. Probably the biggest problem with this light is that there is a rattle in the top section that I can't get rid of. This would be a nice accessory for a speedster or for a driver - maybe not so great for a show car. Asking $150, you pay shipping.

     

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    Thanks for looking!

     

     

  8. FS: one C. M. Hall Tail Lamp, with a 1910 patent date, for a brass-era car. Some quick research on the internet leads me to believe this possibly fits a 1911 Franklin, but could be adapted to other makes as well. This light is in fair condition, as the body is fairly straight with only a few dents and dings and I don't see any fatigue cracks in the brass. The glass looks nice as well. The down side is that someone drilled a hole in the bottom of the fount and removed the burner in an ill-advised attempt to electrify it. Asking $80, you pay shipping.

     

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    Thanks for looking!

  9. Is there anyone who does Lost Wax casting in Yellow Brass?  We're looking to have parts for brass-era head lamps and side lamps reproduced in small quantities (maybe a few dozen parts.)

    The gentlemen we were using previously had to retire. Apparently casting yellow brass is a little trickier than casting red brass or aluminum bronze, and there are just not a lot of guys who are willing to mess with it.
    Any suggestions?

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