[Source for new ECM and ASSU PROM]

5 hours ago, 2seater said:

I think those items are hard burned into the PROM, so the commonly re-programmable stuff the tuner could change are off limits and you need the actual PROM as you already know. Have you contacted Ryan at GM Tuners? He has helped me greatly over a lot of years and perhaps he might know of a source?

WOW I just checked out that website. Lots of good info there. I have a lot to learn. I wonder if someone just has the file and I could put it on a new chip. I will contact them and see what they have to say

[Source for new ECM and ASSU PROM]

9 hours ago, EmTee said:

I'm currently chasing an intermittent false 'engine overheated' telltale which is looking like it may be caused by the remanufactured Blue Streak BCM in my wife's Allante'.  

The Blue Streak advertising readout said they reflowed the board in the ECM, but if they didn't even clean off the corrosion, I find it hard to believe.

[Source for new ECM and ASSU PROM]

22 hours ago, 2seater said:

What PROM do you have now?

CRT says it's 2204. I can't see the letter code since I already put it back in the car. The new one would read out 1094 in the CRT. The updated one has increased fuel pump prime for easier starting, corrected clock (for lost time), and corrected MPG calculations. I'm not sure if there's anything else.

[Source for new ECM and ASSU PROM]

Rockauto did me the favor of sending out two defective ECMs from Blue Streak. The first one made the engine surge and sputter, chimes go off for no reason, and randomly flashing SES light with no codes. The second one had a clearly corroded circuit board. I didn't even try that one. 

 

Does anyone know where to find a *new* ECM? All I see are remanufactured ones, which really don't seem much more than somebody's old ECM stuck in a new box and sold to the next unsuspecting chump.

 

Also, I am looking for the ASSU PROM, to update to the latest version for '89. Does anyone have one for sale or know where to get one?

 

Thanks in advance.

[It Never Fails, Except When It Does]

The disadvantage to starting a new thread is that it's pretty hard to find that new thread to see what the solution ultimately was. I'm not sure what that new thread is titled. I tried searching for this title and got a dozen pages of results starting with the newest. Clicking on next page told me to "wait 5 seconds" before trying a new search 🤦🤷

[compartment latches]

What kind of glue did you use, and did it hold?

[Mottled instrument panel bezel "chrome" accent trim]

Nice work

[Another E041 issue. Just replaced cam sensor.]

On 7/9/2023 at 3:02 PM, PaulP117 said:

Went ahead and checked the two pins on the outside and one is reading at about 6.6V while the other is around 11V. I’m willing to bet it’s the splice leading to the ICM. I had one ordered on suspicion it might be that so once it arrives I hope that’ll be the case. Just to be sure I’m gonna try and find the proper diagram to determine which wire color it is that leads to the ICM so Ill actually know which one is the one with the low voltage.

If your wire colors are brown/white and white/black, these come from pin J at the ICM and splice S130, respectively. The splice is behind the engine mount and compressor. The splice gets voltage from pin N at the ICM. 

[Another E041 issue. Just replaced cam sensor.]

The first thing you should do is (with engine off, ingnition on) unplug the sensor and check voltage at the connector on each of the outside pins, using the center pin as a ground. If they are both below 8V, it's an open ground circuit to the center pin. The other two wires lead to either a splice or the ignition module. If voltage is low on either of those two pins, check for an open circuit to the splice or the ignition module (or bad ignition module itself). If voltage is ok on both (8-10V), then you have to check voltage at the ECM connector and follow some other procedures to see if it's a bad ECM connector, missing magnet, bad sensor, or faulty ECM.