48BuickRoadConv
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Posts posted by 48BuickRoadConv
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16 hours ago, 31 LaSalle said:
Now that's a Boat Tail Stunning { IN MY OPINION }
How about this?
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Wow, I wouldn't have guessed this. I've never heard of an Electrolock
Thanks for the clear explanation.- 1
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Hello,
I am wondering why this cable (pic.) is dressed this way and where it should connected because in the end of cable i can see somekind connector?
It is from ignition switch and I assume it is going to coil.Other thing which is not clear for me, I have new wiring from YnZ, there is near to coil two black wires both numbering 24, actually other is not long enough to coil. YnZ's instruction says "Coil to distributor"?
I did succeed to start the engine when i remove other nro 24 (i.e both are not connect anything) cable from coil (pos.) and connect cable from ignition switch (pic) by jump wire to coil (pos.)
thanks
Timo
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3 hours ago, Pete Phillips said:
I had one or two of those. Can't remember if I"ve sold them or not. Will be a few days before I have time to look (4 different buildings) because I'm going to the S.W. Regional Buick meet Friday and this weekend.
Pete Phillips, BCA #7338
Leonard, TX
Hi Pete,
even one could be enough, I know of one, but I haven't bought it yet because if I could find a pair somewhere...
thanks
Timo
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What do you think if I fill the water compartment of the engine, without a radiator, with 4% citric acid and let it sit for a couple of days.
After which do I run the machine to empty with the water pump?I ask because while repairing the water pump, I noticed that there is a lot of loose rust in the machine.
What could go wrong? -
Yes, fixed. Now the driving line and brakes should be fine.
Next I try to start the engine, I don't know when it was last running.
If and big if, it starts after the normal operation of old engines,
I have to worry about how dynaflow works.. if it works at all -
ratchet strap was the trick
but now i noticed that bolt holes are not symmetric and i have torque ball wrong way... -
Torque ball seal kit changed, now i try to connect drive shaft. It is quite hard, not succeeded yet..
Any trick how to proceed? I am working alonethanks
Timo
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The car currently has no headlight bezels at all and looks naked.
I'm trying to find at least some kind of bezels until I find the originals.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what/where to find even close to the original models (because the car is ugly without them)?
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I have this same ad in the general buy/sell section, but thinks i could get more answers from here...
I am looking headlight bezels for 1948 Buick, it seems that CARS and Bob is out of stock.
Could another car's bezels work?For '49 Buick these are available, are they much different from the '48, could they be made to work?
(I have not sealed beams, I changed them to european version, H4)thanks
Timo
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Could another car's trim/bezel work, is there something special about the Buick?
That seems like a pretty common part
Any idea where i could find suitable parts? -
Ok, that sounds reasonable, i have fog lights
thanks,
Timo
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i am looking headlight rims for 1948 Buick Roadmaster Conv.
thanks,
Timo
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60FlatTop:
At this point I'm trying to get it done without replacing anything other than the "torque ball seal kit".
I will leave all the bigger things until next winter, we have a long winter here in Finland, then there will be time to fix such things in more detail. Especially since “as long as I am there..."
/Timo
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3 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
There may be three seals involved.
The Torque Ball Seal
The Torque Tube Seal
The Pinion Seal in the rear axle
The torque ball seal should hold back the leak between the torque tube and the back of the transmission.
The torque Tube seal should prevent trans fluid from traveling down the drive shaft ( inside the torque tube )
The pinion seal should stop the transfer of rear axle fluid into the drive shaft inside the torque tube.
Thanks John
So, if i order from e.g CARS 'Torque Ball Sealing Kit' and '1940-1955 Buick Pinion Seal', I have those three seals?
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Hello,
when I fixed the brakes I noticed that the left side of the rear wheel seal was leaking.
When I removed the differential cover, more than a gallon of oil came out.From what I have read the reason why there is so much oil is the torque ball?
The rear axle seal, maybe also the bearings need to be replaced, but is it enough to buy a 'Torque Ball Sealing Kit' from e.g. CARS (https://oldbuickparts.com/product/torque-ball-kit-6/)?
I think someone has tried to fix the problem (see picture)...
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4 hours ago, 61polara said:
I have done a 1947 Roadmaster several times and think your rear end is the same. On the 1947, your drain the rear axle by removing the differential rear plate. Then you push out a "C" clip that hold the axle in place. Then the axle can be removed. How did you remove the clip without draining the differential?
Maybe a misunderstanding, my English is not good.
I drained the differential and about a gallon of oil came out. I think the oil should only be half that amount, so where that oil came?
But now I have also another problem; since the outer seal has leaked, the inner seal must also leak,
and I understand that the bearing located between the seals is lubricated with gerase, so it does not need this oil.When/if I also change the inner seal I have to remove the bearing, which means that it has to be replaced as well?
The problem is that if you order a bearing and seal from the USA, it will take at least three weeks, while if I had the specs for the bearing and seal, I could certainly buy them in Finland quickly
Anyone knows these specs (SKF -numbers)?
/Timo -
Now that I got the axle out, I saw that the axle tube has two seals and a bearing in between,
and since the outer seal has leaked, the inner one must have leaked as well.
The bearing is probably lubricated with vaseline separately?
So I have to replace the inner seal as well? But it could be hard job, or? I haven't quite figured out how to change it yet...
BTW, Does anyone know the number of that inner seal (SKF), because if i order it from the USA it takes three weeks to ship,
but I'm sure I'll get the same part here as well?When I removed the axle, oil came out of the rear much more than 4 lbs. (which I think is the correct volume)?
So can someone tell me what is wrong and which parts should be ordered from Bob's?I would love to order them all at once due to the long delivery time to Finland
thanks
Timo -
The problem was resolved, the locking washer was found and by removing it I was able to remove the axle.
But, still when i am here should i check something else?
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Hello
I was fixing brakes and noticed left side of rear wheel seal is leaking. I don't know how to remove axle?
Do I need some extra tools and do i have to remove some lock washer from rear axle housing?
And of course when i am here should i check something else?I have shop manual, but not sure understood right...
thanksTimo
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2 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
I believe there is a SMALL hex [allen ?] screw on the bottom.
Ben
thanks Ben, I already was writing that there is not, BUT upon closer inspection I noticed that it is there, on the side.
see picture 2, the picture is bad, but there really is allen in the area surrounded by blue -
I can't figure out how to remove the knobs from the dashboard, I mean the ones on the 'radio plate', like the Blower, Defroster, Lights
thanks
Timo
'48 Roadmaster hydraulic seat assembly
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Does anyone have a picture or drawing of a hydraulic seat assembly that fits a 1948 Buick Roadmaster Conv.?
I'm buying one, I have a picture of it but I don't understand how it could work, maybe it's missing a part/parts?
Of course, it lacks a hydraulic cylinder
thanks
Timo