Deadpurpledog
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Posts posted by Deadpurpledog
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Opinions are like ————, everyone has one. Me too! Thin white wall with full wheel covers, please.
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Thanks Robert. Going to tackle this week . . . will let you know what I find.
picture was fuzzy. Looks as though you have a lovely Riviera and have had it for a long time. Drive it regularly?
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Thanks 70rivme! Can’t take much credit. Spent a lot of time and money trying to get the carb to run reasonably while stopping the fuel smell. Also, was considering switching ignitions. As I’m about to explain, and as many more here like EmTee already know, I don’t know squat about the mechanical side of cars. Maybe less.
Tony, with Carbuerators and More said he could fix the problems or, for another $1,800, he could fix all the issues permanently and my Riviera would run a whole lot better. I opted for Door #2. Believe the conversion included ignition, fuel pump, all new lines, risers for my air cleaner to fit and maybe more.
Driving it for a few weeks with computer attached to learn how I drive. Will return soon to have it calibrated to match how I drive.
sorry I can’t tell,u more. Surely many here will be able to tell you more.
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Are the motors for the two passenger side windows the same? Who do you most trust to,provide replacements, please?
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Looking forward to your pictures.
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3 hours ago, EmTee said:
Another common issue is a broken wire in the loom that passes from the driver's door to the A-pillar. The passenger side windows get power fed from the master switch on the driver's door. Also check the connectors at each switch, as Joe mentioned; those can work loose also.
As always. . . .excellent assistance, EmTee. Thank you!
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3 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
Look at a wiring diagram (in the Fisher Body Manual) and locate the wire or connector that is common to that side of the car. GM didn't fuse the two sides separately (and used a self-resetting) circuit breaker anyway) so that won't be the problem. Asking the interwebs for help will get you a huge number of incorrect suggestions. Troubleshooting with a test light is the only way to fix this problem.
Thanks Joe! Really helps me to manage repair & not be abused by mechanic.
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Nothing like them. Beautiful from every angle.
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passenger side power windows of 67 Riviera stopped working. While front window had a pause. . .both worked well. Funny both went dead at the same time. Is there a fuse for these? What else might cause this, please?
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17 hours ago, prewarnut said:
I use Wolf's Chemicals. It used to be sold out of Canada or FL but I find it on Ebay from the Netherlands. There's others.
Thanks prewarnut!
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On 4/13/2024 at 5:28 PM, Hazdaz said:
FI sounds great if you drive your car a lot, or drive it in varied climates or varied conditions. With a carb you essentially have one dumb nozzle for the cold or when hot or when at fuel throttle or when idling with no feedback. Of course I am oversimplifying things, but at the end of the day, I just like to cruise around a little in my Riv during the warmer months and that's about it. I'm not driving it in the winter, or at high altitudes or cross country. Set it for one tune and that's pretty good for all of the conditions that I want the car to operate in. If you asked me before I bought the Riv if FI would have been in the cards, I probably would have said yes. Same with disc brakes. But honestly its perfectly fine without those upgrades. If it was a true muscle car that I was taking to the track or drag racing it, then my answer would be different. But it is a gorgeous cruiser for the summer, and it (usually) handles those duties splendidly.
Now having said all that, I still am interested in hearing more about one's adventures in FI Town and how complicated the process was and roughly how much it all cost. I still enjoy seeing how people modify their cars to suite their tastes - authentic (OEM) doesn't really mean much to me.
Thanks Hazdaz. Learned something 2nd drive following installation when my Riviera died while driving. Turns out you can’t top them off. There’s a small filter near top of fuel entrance. When FI pulls fuel there needs to be some air . . .otherwise, the suction grabs the filter! Who knew? Always something, isn’t there?
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On 4/13/2024 at 4:11 PM, NTX5467 said:
Point to remember . . . a carburetor, like a throttle-body EFI, is nothing more than a "fuel mixer". Which is why a throttle body EFI shows no more power on a dyno run.
The system that Ben started with was based on the mid-1980s GM ECM system for throttle body injection. It used reman or new GM-designed parts, which could be sourced from an auto supply. They burned a chip to match his application. Newer versions, which I believe he has, can also control ignition timing for a complete engine management system. BTAIM One of the advances Ben experienced was increased fuel economy on trips. Still, a 2-3mpg possible will not financially-justify the expenditure, by observations.
What CAN justify the expenditure is increased drivability of the vehicle, no matter the altitude or ambient temperature.
I conversed with a person on the BCA forums about an EFI system he had installed on a '68 Electra 430. Went from 19mph highway to 8 in one feld swoop. Must have been a programming issue related to the cam specs? Since that time programming parameters have been upgraded and enhanced. Never did find out if the mpg improved with tuning inputs or increased run time.
In general, a factory Rochester carburetor is one of the most bulletproof carburetors which ever existed. Solid performance as long as it is generally unmolested. Usually easy and simple to work on, if needed. Might not be exactly high-tech cutting edge, but still good.
ONE reason that EFI "drives better" than a carburetor is that a carburetor meters fuel "as air velocity through the venturis increases. An electronic FI system meters fuel when the throttle pedal (via TPS) moves at all. As soon as the throttle is opening, the computer is instructing the fuel injectors to immediately add more fuel to the fire. Rather than waiting for air speed in the venturis to increase. Which ALSO means that an unsteady throttle foot can quickly degrade fuel economy, big time.
Similarly, whenever the throttle input goes to "idle" or "zero", the system immediately takes fuel out of the mix, which can result in "instant fuel economy" of up to 99mph during coast-down times. Which can be another way to improve fuel economy. IF you have a modern vehicle with a Driver Info Center which reads-out "Instant MPG" or "Average MPG", you can learn how to drive them to get better fuel economy. Especially by "coasting" up to stpo signs rather than "driving" up to them and hitting the brakes. Similarly, brisk acceleration gets the vehicle up to speed quicker with less fuel consumption rather than "taking it easy", as we were told ages ago.
A finely-tuned carburetor can be great, provided "anybody" can drive the car and not get frustrated. Most of us learn the equipment and how to best manipulate if to do what we want it to. Which might take some different ways to operate it when cold, or otherwise. EFI has the benefit of not needing special care or procedures to make it work well, just as with factory EFI systems. "Crank and go".
For younger people, EFI is what they know about. A carburetor is "foreign" to them. THEY would be a big target market for EFI rather than older people who know how to work on and tweak carburetors, I suspect.
Hopefully, ANY money spent (or saved) by either option will be in the owner's best interest.
NTX5467
I’m absolutely an ‘older” person NTX and . . . Even though born in England. . . .dont see constantly tweeking & repairing parts of the fun. I love the way it looks and feels. More, even though only 75% my age it feels like a kindred spirit.
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On 4/13/2024 at 5:20 AM, alsancle said:
Updates are all fun and games until the next guy gets it. He has to work on the car and finds out the aftermarket company ceased to exist 10 years earlier and there are no parts or documentation.
Thanks. You’re right. . .learned this as I’ve tried to bring my Riviera to a high level. In this instance, however, don’t see Holley disappearing soon.
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On 4/13/2024 at 4:56 AM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
Good on you!!! Almost 30,000 mi on my 1950 since doing the same. Ignore the naysayers😁.
Ben
Thanks Ben. Hoping my experience mirrors yours.
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On 4/14/2024 at 4:13 AM, prewarnut said:
There's two levels to consider. I use a nanoparticle sealant that is wiped on and then wiped off (on my modern cars). It lasts 6-8 months - far better than my best wax. It doesn't have a residue (i.e. no cleaning of emblems, trim, etc). What I use is made in Hungary and can't be easily purchased here but there are a few things on the market. Then there is the ceramic coating. That is generally professionally applied. it should last a year or more and provides a more tangible layer over the paint. This is what helps some cars to look like they are dipped in gloss, if you will. Both need good paint, ideally polished so no major orange peal. However this doesn't always look right on older cars never painted and polished this way. Also many modern cars don't "respond well" because you start to see all the imperfections near stampings like the gas filler flap, doors, emblems, complex creases the designer penned but didn't execute well.... Despite their high prices I've seen polishing and too high a gloss coating bring out imperfections on my Porsches and BMWs. I've seen this problem on Maserati, definitely GM products, Volvo....If you have a RR, Ferrari, Bentley you're all set. MB is up the middle these days. There's a ton to read about. I'd say no harm in the wipe on products. The sealants are DIY so you can simply try if you want. The ceramic coating can only be reversed by polishing off. Overall, the higher level of polishing and then going all the way to ceramic coating is where you can get reflections "hovering" over the layer of paint. It's hard to describe but if you see it in person with a discerning eye then you'll understand. I just about attain that with polishing and sealant so I stop there...
Thanks prewarnut. What’s the name of your Hungarian product and from whom do you purchase, please?
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On 4/14/2024 at 7:25 AM, vintage1 said:
On all my cars, vintage and new I always used Meguiar's carnauba wax. I purchased a new Porsche a couple of years ago and decided to try a DIY ceramic wax/coating. I have been disappointed in the results. After about 3 months water no longer beads off and there is no depth to the shine. I went over the car with Meguiar's polish and then carnauba wax and the paint looks like it did in the showroom. This is just my personal opinion but I think I will stick with the old wax process.
Thanks Vintage1. Seems as though many here prefer wax. Do you feel it protects the finish from abrasions as much as ceramic?
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On 4/14/2024 at 8:48 AM, EmTee said:
I'd be leery of putting anything like a sealant over a fresh paint job. I'd probably wait 3 to 6 months before doing anything.
As always, EmTee……..wise counsel. Thank you!
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Wow. . .some things I didn’t know ABear. Thank you!
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5 hours ago, Ronnie said:
I'm a big fan of using a clay bar. I don't know that I would use a clay bar on fresh paint, but on old paint, including clear coat finishes, it is amazing the difference it can make. Not only do you see the difference but you can feel a big difference in the paint after using a clay bar. It will make old paint as slick as a baby's butt and get it ready for a good coat of wax by removing contaminants on the surface of the paint that washing just can't remove. It's well worth taking the time to do it.
Thanks Ronnie. Trying to the best thing & your perspective is helpful.
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3 hours ago, WPVT said:
I only meant a new windshield that was without all the micro-scratches on the old one.
I know. Simply adding a similar, but different, lesson.
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2 hours ago, TAKerry said:
I guess I am lucky that my mechanic (60yrs old) told me he started rebuilding q jets when he was 15. I made a comment before that on the motor he recently built for me I was a bit disappointed in the looks of the carb. Comparing to some restorations (and how I like to restore things) it was down right shabby. He flat out told me, he was not going to paint or shine things up, BUT it would run perfect when he was done. The work he did on my other motor indeed runs perfect, and although I have only started the new motor a couple of times once fuel hit the bowl it fired right up and sounded darn good. As far as rebuilders I know of another fellow in the Trans Am world that will 'restore' the Q jet, he will paint and shine it up, put it to proper tune and return as a servicable unit. I think the last time I check he was around $300 plus shipping. Quite a bit of a savings over the cost of a new EFI!
My car has no quirks or special hand signals needed to get it to start or stay running. Anyone off the street that knows how to drive a car can get in, turn the key and take it for a drive (with my permission of course😁) without any special instructions.
Thanks TAKerry. Deed is done. More “news at 11”.
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2 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
I can recommend a few Qjet experts who I trust.
Thanks Joe. I’m in Las Vegas and couldn’t find one. Unless FI fails, am done with carbs. Appreciate you understanding.
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Thinking about adding ceramic coating to recently painted Riviera. Please share your thoughts and experiences. Seems pretty expensive and I don’t know how to tell the difference between ceramic coating and an hour wax job!
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15 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
I am going to assume a different "expert" installed the fuel injection. Just thinking about my experiences.
Yes, think they knew what they were doing. Time will tell, won’t it?
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Here’s a fun one — Who bought a car for under $ 100 ???
in General Discussion
Posted
Two come to mind. Purchased a 58 Ford 2-door post(yellow under cream) for $50. It had been a utility company vehicle used by a meter reader. Didn’t think about the speeds it have been driven. First time I drove it at highway speeds the engine blew. Other was a 36 Nash Lafayette my father won in a card game in 1962. Close but not under $100. . . .1962(?) brown/brown Nash Rambler American to drive to/from college.