Ozzy1932
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Posts posted by Ozzy1932
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(2) LH welled fenders. $300 each
(1) RH welled fender $300
(1) RH un-welled fender $300
LH & RH L32 drip pans $300 pair
(1) EC-2 carburetor $400
(1)gas tank $100
(1) NOS L32 Fuel pump $125
(1) electric clock $150
(PR) running boards $300
(4) Wood wheel hub caps $50ea.
(2) tail light lenses $75 ea.
(1) radiator shell $300
(1) original sedan trunk $750
(1) bellhousing $75
(1) flywheel-reground $250
(1) L32 crossmember # 400515 $125. This is a short list. I have more 32 Olds parts that I may part with. Please send me a list of items you are looking for. Thanks, Brian
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1 minute ago, demco32 said:
Hello, wat parts do you have for sale?
can you make ,
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WTB 1932 Chevy Oldsmobile Pontiac cabriolet front bow irons/hinges. The pair I have are in rough condition. Thanks in advance for any leads.
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It’s is now everything that is wasn’t for a very long time. It’s taken a big leap in the few months that you’ve had it. I feel good about this car becoming what it should be again.
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The windows look great Ted ! I can’t wait to see the car in person.
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This is just Fantastic ! I appreciated everything you have done Ted to bring this car to this point. It has been like watching a movie on how to restore a 32 Olds DCR. You experience , skill and attention to detail is second to none. I can't wait to see it in person !
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Making the wood for this Olds DCR is definitely and artform. This final piece looks like it would be the toughest one to make. I'm glad that You were able to duplicate the original that was in very poor shape. Thanks for your attention to detail Ted !
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There dovetails look great Ted. Thanks for getting them done ✅ for me.
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23 hours ago, chistech said:
Got a little time on the mill today. Worked on the dovetail receptacles. Using the stop block and milling things in proper sequence allowed me to save a lot of time. The digital readout helps tremendously also. These small blocks have a lot going on.
This is how far I progressed today. First thing down after I had laid all my scribe lines was to mill the V groove. Using a 11/32 end mill, I cut the slot .965 deep from the face in 3 steps increasing the depth of the bit until I was at the proper depth top to bottom. Flipped the block over and did the same on the opposite side. Then the vice was rotated 10 degrees and one side of the groove cut. Block was flipped and the other was milled. Then the vice got rotated again but 10 degrees opposite of center and the process repeated.
I didn’t take pictures at every step, only taking pictures at the end of today but the next step was to drill the .310 spring holes. These were drilled when the block was still full dimensional and the additional milling you see on the back was done in a later step. 
Here are the sides of the block milled to accept the metal sliders. The corners of the retaining blocks are still square and will be rounded as the originals were later.
The dovetail in the V groove.
The front view of the dovetail in the receptacle. The back edge of the dovetail is at 12mm from the face of the receptacle as the original is. The two 3/16 wide grooves on each side of the V groove are for small felts that are lubricated and help the receptacle slide freely in the housing.
This side view shows the rear tongue not yet shaped as the tongue left square is still required for further milling. This tongue helps keep the receptacle aligned in the housing when the door is closed. Lots of the final shaping is easier to do on a belt sander and hand files.
Here you can see how badly the original ones were worn. The spring was actually exposed in its hole from wear. Tomorrow I will saw the two apart, mill them to their proper thickness, mill the three 3/16 felt slots on each backside, then finish all the small details in all other areas. This work went really fast and there’s only about 1 1/2 hours work so far. Anyone who’s done machining knows that’s not a lot of time on a small complicated piece. Should be about an 1/2 hour left.
Nice work Ted !
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6 hours ago, bradsan said:
I linked this thread of Ted's to a post in another sub-forum on the site. The request was the timeless one for a wood kit for a brand that wasn't Ford or Chev.
Rather than hijack another's thread, I though I'd write my reply here where all of the fans would see it.
I've got a wood bodied project that I've been staring at for the past 40 years ( inherited of course! ) and over the years I've built that wooden frame at least 100 times in my head.
It will be a real challenge, as the wood for patterns is incomplete; although I think I've got at least one right or one left of every part🙃
The first question I remember asking of marque specialists when Dad first got the car was 'Where do I get a wood kit?'
The second question was "Where do I get factory drawings of the wooden patterns?"
The third question, and, strike three was " Where do I get a good book on how to do automotive wood working ?"
If there was ever a really good practical book being written on how to tackle automotive wood working , I think Ted's posts are the becoming of the book I was looking to buy . Not only this post on the Olds but the other posts he has contributed to ( like the finger jointing bit discussion) .
Can't say again how much I appreciate the time and effort Ted has put into detailing what he does. ( Like so many others posting their adventures in this sub).
Gives me hope that I can complete a project ...or where to ship it if I can't!
I may be missing other good posts on the same subject by equal talents that have disappeared down the screen into history. I know they are only a search away but it does make me wonder about the potential for pinned subject collections in the Technical thread.
More importantly, if you are a member thanks for paying your dues and if you are not , consider becoming a member because books like this are priceless.
Brad
Brad, well said. I believe Ted is one of the best kept secrets in the antique car wood restoration world. He has the knowledge, skills and equipment do what is necessary to perfection. I feel fortunate to have met him to help me with this Olds project that laid dormant for 20 years. He has breathed new life into an automobile that was destined for the scrap heap. I bought this 32 Olds because I knew what it was and hoped I could find a way to get it back to its original glory. Without Ted, I don’t know if that would have been possible.
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On 3/23/2023 at 11:19 PM, chistech said:
Been busy with the other side of my business but got in some time here and there to work on the Olds. Looked at everything I got with the car and there’s no more regulators so I decided I would increase the section of teeth. The two bad regulators had the exact tooth spacing the good regulators have so I cut a good section of teeth off the bad regulator.
Here’s the good regulator. Problem is the range of rotation is only about 110 degrees and that’s very close but not enough to lower the window frame down to its stops.
The first step to adding teeth is to flatten the last tooth even with the rest. That bend in the tooth acts as a stop so the regulator can’t be cranked too far.
With the tooth flattened, the section of teeth taken from the bad regulator are aligned with the others so to keep the added teeth i the same radius. The regulator got flipped over and the back edge was scribed onto the add on section so I could cut it with a hack saw.
Here’s the section cut to shape and the last tooth bent up to be the stop.
Section added on after chamfering the edges of both pieces for better penetration of the mig wire. I have and old Hobart Handler 120 mig and I’m using flux wire for this application. The Hobart really welds good and very flat requiring less grinding after. It gets great penetration too without the buildup.
Completely welded up on both sides and cleaned up with the air grinder. 
It’s been primed and painted here. Did both regulators and installed them back on the boards.
Drivers door with the window frame installed and attached to the regulator button. The frame is even with the top of the door and the regulator can go a little further but there will be two rubber bumpers on the two stop blocks setting the window frame right at door top height.
Here’s the window frame cranked all the way up and the sash is against the front and rear stops where it should be. While it could have been an issue, I followed the old Clint Eastwood adage of “adapt and overcome” and got the problem fixed pretty easily. These regulators actually have shorter arms than the others which allows for less leverage against the mechanism. The windows crank up easier tan they would with the longer armed regulators.
This is the type of work that separates Ted from the rest. When I first saw the problem and Ted said " I'll have to figure out a solution", I thought to myself, what can he do with this? Not that I lacked any confidence but mechanically I couldn't think of a way to fix the issue. Once again, Ted found a way that was true genius ! Thank you for your ingenuity Ted !
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This is just so fantastic Ted ! Thank you for your craftsmanship. This is so exciting to see this DCR come back to life. I don’t know anyone that could have done this work with as much skill , focus and pride. I couldn’t be any happier 😊
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More great work ! I love the wooden hose stopper 🤩
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I’m looking for a 1932 Oldsmobile front seat adjuster assembly and an ignition switch that mounts on the coil # 534W .
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Excellent pictures Ted ! Looks awesome 🤩
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Very exciting Ted ! Looks great!!!
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Looks great Ted. That’s genius what you did with the roller bearings for the seat rollers !
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Ted , This is really getting me excited too ! It’s really looking like a DCR ! I’m glad it’s coming along so well. It’s fascinating to see this project from the beginning to now. Thank you for your expert craftsmanship and diligence.
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Excellent work Ted ! Looks great 🤩
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5 minutes ago, chistech said:
Started on the cowl cross sill today. After tracing the original, the first thing done was to set the table saw blade on an angle and make the angled cut down the length.
second thing done was to make a tracing of the shallow rabbet for the metal dash panel.
paper pattern made then traced on the new piec
then the shallow side of the tenon was done in the mill.
next the deep cut to make a 5/8, .6250 tenon.
the piece was clamped down and the shallow rabbet for the dash was done free hand with my small trim router. The router was easy to control because the bit depth was only 1/16”.
leaving the piece uncut as far as the final shape allows the material to support the router base to make the rabbet.
the end have a small angle to match the width of the A pillar. This was done on the 12” disk sander. Again the straight edge of the piece allows this to be easily done.
the other end done
each angled end get the router treatment
each end from the tenon in 6” is perfectly flat (no curve) on the bottom and the edge gets rounded over with the router. This is where the heavy steel pillar to dash cross sill corner iron gets bolted. The round over is to clear the inside of the 90d bend in the iron.
There are two round reliefs I the cross sill. These are easily done with the end of my horizontal belt sander
here’s the finished and sanded piece next to the original.
The original A pillars are fitted to check the new piece.
The passenger side corner fits perfectly.
The drivers side is still a little proud of the Top of the A pillar but I originally left it that way because there are borings very close to the tenons on both ends and they are first done with forstner bits at an angle and are done to clear the nuts for the bolts for the corner irons from the cowl sheet metal. These angled boring will be done tomorrow on the mill.
As I mentioned in the previous post, these are the steps in the required sequence to make this piece up correctly. Real happy with the way it turned out as it’s the first time I’ve need to make a new dash cross sill.
Looks excellent Ted. I’m very glad I had a good sample for you to copy.
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Looking great Ted ! Thanks for the update!
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Ted, your work up to this point has been absolutely amazing ! Thank you for sharing these pictures and the details of what you have done to resurrect this 32 Olds DCR !
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I can see how important those wedges are. I’m glad you installed them in there. The wood has a great look to it now with your wood treatment. The DCR is looking great Ted 😊
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Looks excellent Ted ! Thank you for the update.
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Passing of a Fellow Car Enthusiast; Gene T. Wieder (1943-2023)
in In Memoriam...
Posted
This is very sad. Gene was a true 32 Olds enthusiast. I was glad to have met him. He did one beautiful job restoring his Olds coupe. Rest in peace Gene.