Jerry Shuck

I'll get a hold of Wheel Vintiques. Thanks.

Stockton Wheel does not answer emails or phone calls. Does anyone have any other suggestions for a wheel restoration shop? I'm in Northern California but wouldn't mind shipping out of state if necessary to find a qualified shop.

I installed the cut-off switch thirty years ago and never have had a problem. In fact I never had any electrical problems (other than all high beams blowing out a decade ago) until I got into replacing the ignition switch, light switch and dimmer switch and Hdlp bulbs. Fixed the high beam problem then decided to rebuild the alternator and replace the voltage regulator for good measure. I should have stuck to the old adage; if it ain't broke don't fix it. Guess I'm going with a Bosch alternator next. Thanks to all of you gentlemen for your help.

Jim, the rebuilder of the alternator says that all diodes etc check out fine. He suspects a bad ground to the voltage regulator. I'm about ready to throw in the towel and put an internally regulated alternator it. Do you have a specific brand/model of alternator that you would recommend?

Sorry, don't understand your question. The booster came back as it left with a new check valve and the rebuild/repaint. All is fine so far.

The fella who rebuilt the alternator agrees to let me send it back for inspection. From all that I have gathered, I believe that you are correct about the diodes. Thanks and I'll let you know what becomes of the next go round of remove/ship/replace tasks.

Harmon installed a brand new check valve.

Here is the lates. Lectric Limited sent me a new replacement voltage regulator and here is the new situation; 1. Engine OFF: battery reads 13.9 volts DC 2. Engine RUNNING: a. Regulator humming constantly with dummy light on constantly...a little bit of flicker. b. Battery reads 16.7 Volts DC c. Battery reads 5.0 to .7 Volts AC Can I assume that the diodes are bad? Any more helpful ideas?

The heater core Draftsman was promoted to Director Of Engineering.

My original booster was a silver colored nickel cad which Harmon could not replicate (gold only) so I had them shoot it with silver paint. Stops on a dime now.

JIm, I ran a redundant ground line from the mounting bracket of the regulator to the power steering engine bracket mount.

Great information, thank you. The fellow who rebuilt my alternator tells me that he put three new negative and three new positive diodes in and tested it before shipping. The only thing that I can think of (other than a bad field relay) after reading all of the wiring warnings above is that my alternator (original to the car) had a ground post that was not utilized before I had it rebuilt. I ran a redundant ground wire to the block off of this post. I have always heard that too many grounds are better than fewer. Grounds and all wiring continuity seems solid to me.

Thanks Mark. Call me an idiot but I'm always trying my best to hold onto originality. I need to enter the space age I suppose.

I'll look into that. Thanks

Hello out there. Does anyone know the exact point gap(s) adjustments on the Delco Voltage Regulator #01119515? There are three gaps that might need adjustments according the the tech guy at Lectric Limited but he doesn't know what the gaps should be...simply says that by adjusting the points I might be able to eliminate the contact point chatter.

OK, all the plugs, wires and grounds are clean and solid and show continuity using my multimeter on the OHMs setting? Next steps?

I had Harmon Classic Brakes in Georgia rebuild the booster. Did a fine job, looks good in "original like" silver paint (not cad plating) and works well. Expensive but they got the job done. Reasonably good turn around time. Good communication with their tech dude. Naturally had to adjust the brake light switch after install.

Tall John, I need your help! I have the same friggin problem with my '64 Riv. New alternator, American made voltage regulator, new coil, good battery, cables, good grounds. The voltage regulator points are chattering at low idle and at acceleration up to about 2000 rpm with the amp dummy light illuminating in sync. Driving me nuts. How did you resolve your problem? Than ks, Jerry gshuck@gmx.com

Could someone recommend a complete header to tail pipe OEM designed stainless steel exhaust system? A quality American made system that will last another 20 years?

Grind to fit paint to match. I ground down about 1/4" and it became a one man operation...almost I had to yell at my wife a bit to make me feel like a Man in control.

Roger. I believe that the entire pedal assembly could be shifted too far outboard from the factory. The face of the pedal shaft race is too far outboard...past the centerline of the booster. Thank you though.

I'll bet on the assembly line they had the pedal assembly loose and mounted the booster before tightening up the pedal assembly. I may grind some clearance around the firewall hole. It's this little @#$% that drive me nuts!

I had one hell of a time sliding the power brake booster push rod off of the pedal fulcrum shaft when I took it off the firewall. Had the booster rebuilt and now I'm having a much worse time re-installing the booster push rod onto the pedal shaft. The push rod I.D. is .045" and the shaft O.D. is .040. Can not tap it on or compress with channel locks. Is this a common problem? Any tricks that I am unaware of?

I had my original Delco Remy alternator for my '64 Riviera rebuilt by Classic Generator in Texas http://www.classicgenerator.com/ . Wonderful job and a pleasure to work with. Took about two weeks and paid after it shipped.

Perfect! They are in my back yard practically. I'll get in touch with them. Thank you.