Rata Road

I just purchased a 27 Chrysler 50 (4 cylinder). I has a vibration which seems like the motor is the cause. It slowly gets worse the faster I go and when driving along if I slip it in neutral and let the engine idle the vibration goes away as I glide but it comes back when the engine is revved even with the car is still free wheeling in neutral. Any suggestions guys?

Found the original "instruction book" for the car and it states the "rear signal Lamp" goes when the brake pedal is pushed so YES these cars had a factory brake light.

Thanks Viv. How do I check if the Dist drive is tight? It turns via the steering wheel control lever.

Thanks guys

Well I got it home and its longer than 156 inches even after I removed the rear carrier. Managed to get the garage door shut but only after running it up on ramps to go slightly over the rear of MG midget. Anyway its inside. Nice car, very presentable and looking forward to going through everything.

Light looks very tidy, I'm guessing its a reproduction. I'll be interested to see if I can get the brake switch to light it up.

I dont think so as I have 3 Model T's and none of those have a stop light, even in the end as I have a 27 and it doesn't but it looks like Chrysler probably did. Lovely looking cars by the way. Its a bit frustrating as I dont have a photo of the rear end to confirm. Have to wait until I pick it up. Thanks

Thanks Twisted for that link. It states 153 inches which I hope is correct as I have 156 inches.... just. Great news

I'm rearranging my garage in advance before I take possession later in the week. I need the overall length of a 4 cylinder 4 door sedan please, bumper to bumper. It has a luggage rack on the rear but I can remove that so just the basic length please. Thanks in advance

Ok will be interesting to hear if they can find any wiring or switch to activate a brake light underneath. We need to get cars checked every 6 months to be legal on the road. Owner has died and a family friend is selling it for his wife and took it to a local garage for its check over. He took it to a different garage that the owner used and this outfit noticed the word "Stop" I guess and wont pass it until it has a working brake light. If they didn't come with a stop light as standard then they would have to pass it as it sits, hence why I'm asking. Thanks for your input guys.

I can do that later in the week. I haven't taken possession or even seen the car in person yet. Thanks

Using my stable as reference - The instant read out of the fuel gauge when the key is turned How each car has its own system of choke and pedal combo to start when cold The solid clunk when the door is shut A chrome handle to use to open the boot (trunk for some of you) Wind down windows with quarter vents No doof doof Music A crank handle in the tool kit Ability the turn the fuel gauge into sump oil level gauge with the press of a button (51 Rover 75) Ability to adjust fuel mixture and timing from inside the cab No electronics no computer = fix it yourself Having to use the brain to find the gears and work the clutch smoothly when swapping from car to car Central locking...as in all four doors can be locked from one central seat position Brakes that demand you drive sensible

I know of a Chrysler 50 that still has only the factory rear rod brakes only. It has a combo tail/Brake light but there is no bulb in the brake light socket. Question is did the brake light come standard in this model or maybe an optional extra in the day? Or is it more likely somebody has fitted a combo light over the years and the stop light has never been activated. Thanks

Thanks Guys. Hans I believe it was Geoff who rebuilt the engine and he decided the clutch looked in great condition and chose to refit it. It sounds like a sound good running example is a reliable car when looked after and driven with care.

I'm looking at a 29 Essex and am seeking your opinion . Its a very original car, very low mileage and is in very tidy condition. The engine has been recently rebuilt and the car is running great and road legal. What are the strength and weakness of the Essex 6 is basically what I am looking for. Thanks

Thanks guys, I cant ask the previous owner as he died and I got it from his estate. Maybe he has never done anything with it over the years. I'll consider your feedback, thanks

I recently purchased a 1951 Rover P4 Cyclops. The previous owner had it 60 years and always garaged it hence the interior woodwork is great condition. I would like to apply something to keep it healthy and protect it from the sun when out and about. What do you use?

Update 2 - He has contacted me and is in the UK for the next month and will get in touch when back home, so perhaps you will get your work done after that Mark. Good Luck

Update - I phoned a person in his area he said he knows of him. Good news is he is still around and still living in the same house as listed. He thinks he is now working full/semi part time. I will ring again in the evenings. Kevin

Ok found them, see what I can find out.

Mark can you send me his contact details and I will see what i can find out from here in New Zealand. Kevin

If you dont have access to a tractor wheel I have done similar and just spun the tank around and shook it by hand. Tie the chain so it can't all fall in. Ive used hot soapy water but sometimes I start off with vinegar soaking in overnight before the chaining. I repeat the process until no junk/bits come out with the flush. Good luck.

1912 - I see what you mean about the bowl locations. As far as choke set up your correct but doesn't matter in this set up as only the front carb has the choke cable connected. A bit harder to start from cold but after that no issue. Terry - I'm not forcing too much petrol in as its only gravity fed from the petrol tank on the firewall (like a Model A Ford). Its out of shot but located about 3 inches to the right of the pigs tale in the fuel line shown. Thats a tidy set up on your MG. I have a 53 YB, single SU. Thanks again

Oldcarfudd - yes I'm half the planet away from Hershey lol. DrData - Sorry I should have posted a pic of the carby set up when in running condition with pipes etc connected which I have below. It is defiantly running on both carbs. Not sure what the difference between a matched set and 2 identical carbs is but the previous owner had fitted these and hadn't got around to the fine tune stage. Ive tuned them one at a time as individual units as described by the experts before linking them the best I can with the current jet set up however I have ordered some new parts so maybe it will be better after they have been installed. The black hose on my set up is an equalizer between the 2. I agree SU are a simple carb and easy to work on but the needle and jet set up is important. for example I was reading an article that an old 850 cc mini automatic has a different set to the manual version of the same motor so getting this right might take some time. nzcarnerd - Your close with the location, the pic by the lake is the Canterbury/Otago border. The car looks good with the twin SU's but your probably correct about them being an overkill. I am happy enough to change it to one carb (of any type that works correctly) in the end but I'll play with these first, its interesting. I probably didn't explain the double clutching issue clearly, I have had heaps of experience doing this as I have many old cars but the triumph is slow and you dont get much time to get it right between 1st & 2nd . Having the engine revving too high makes it impossible. I need it settle to an idle as soon as I remove the throttle and with set up it doesn't. Thanks heaps for your input guys