cutdown
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Posts posted by cutdown
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According to Mr Google, 6 US quarts = 5.67812 litres. As that is the maximum recommended, it necessarily follows that that is what should be in the engine to start with.
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When you put the new split pin in, make sure you put it in, in the direction of travel, so that the end that is bent back, can not be straightened out again if making contact with some foreign object, [ which should not be in the engine anyway ] while the engine is running.
BTW, the latest one I
got from Myers, has to pieces to each link, forming a roller type action when in motion, similar to picture. Not a good drawing though
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I had some problem with this. When I first rebuilt my engine, I discovered the float would sink to the bottom, although it would stay up for a second before sinking. In the end, I got some other floats and compared the weights. My sinking float weighed 52 grams I think and another weighed only 42grams. The 42 gram one floated as per the picture, with 6 quarts in the sump. I suspect that so long as the float is above the pint where it bottoms out, that you may be safe to drive the car. My bottomed out float sits about 1/4 inch above the block opening, which is below that lower indicator.
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When I rebuilt the engine on this car, I didn't redo the water pump, as it appeared to be ok. My mistake. I saw that Mattml had fitted mechanical seals to his car so decided to do the same with mine as well as fitting proper oil seals to the Auxiliary drive [ no machining required ]. I could not locate any mechanical pump seals in NZ like matt had fitted so contacted him. He offered to send me a couple. I had already disassembled two other water pumps to find the best option as well as getting a new shaft from Myers. Everything had arrived here in NZ 10 days ago so took the pump assy off the car and attempted to strip it. The impellor pin would not come out so ended up using an impellor of one of the other pumps. Just as well, because the keyway and pin hole on one of the spares was the only one which matched the new shaft. Sorted out the least worn bodies and fitted the two oil seals to the auxiliary drive, but had to take my water pump down to the Men's Shed as my lathe didn't have a big enough throw to spin the bodies because of the water outlets.
Got everything back together yesterday but because of wet weather until tonight, did not test the engine till this evening. All good.
BTW, the problem I had with the sinking oil level float was fixed last weekend. The float that was in the car weighed 54 grams, and the replacement I got weighed only 42 grams. That worked very well. Now with 5.6 litres [ 6 US Quarts ] , the float sticks up all the way and nearly to the water jacket.
A big thankyou to Matt [ from Koo Wee Rup North ] for sending me those seals.
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They originally had piping. Remember it's aluminium [ correct spelling ], and softer than steel. It will look nicer with the piping. Sounds like you are a panel beater.
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One of those cars won the 2 litre classis in the 1951 Mont Carlo Rally. Not bad for a naturally asperated 1500 cc flat four eh.
Is that yours matt or just a job for you.
Hi Matt, looks like I have 3 copies of this book. Let me know your address and i will send you one. It only has black and white pic in it but shows a few of the different cars as well as history. A Javelin was severely modified for racing in Aussie [ the Wylie Javelin ], and is pictured in this book. Doesn't look anything like its parent car.
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Its a Jowet Jupiter. Sports car version of a Jowet Javelin [ well sort of ], made in Bradford England. Only 31 came to NZ, which included a complete new chassis [ which was homed in the street next to where I grew up in Titahi Bay ]. Mead built some bodies and I think Farina built about 4. One Farina exists here in NZ just north of Whangarei. My first car was a Bradford van and then I went on to own a Javelin. Did a lot of miles in that car. One of the nicest original Jupiters is in the Southward Museum at Otaihanga.
As a mechanic, I did a lot of work on the Bradford and Javelin. Learned how to make rod brakes [ Bradford ] work really well, which helped me to understand and get the brakes on the Dodge really good.
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It's not a seal. It's an oil slinger. It's what it is and not much you can do about it except hope you have no blow-by when your rings have settled in. some engines could be fitted with a split seal top and bottom halves to fit into the block [ before crank fitted ] and rear main cap [ before fitting this to the block ] but not sure if you can get one for this engine.
A friend of mine has a 29 Chev and was quite surprised when he saw the size of the Dodge diff on my car. Even the gearbox is tiny in comparison to the dodge one.
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There were some really good parts guys around a few years ago. In the 70"s and 80's there was Dominic, at the Austin agency, who knew every part off by heart, and every modification needed as well. Magic. I think he was a bit stuffed though when they took over Honda as well.
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You can see how little room I have to operate in. I get by though.
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On 1/20/2024 at 12:52 PM, 30DodgePanel said:
#1 commandment, thou shalt not tease with speak of a Norton, thou must showeth photos.Ok. busy all day today practicing. Tomorrow i may showeth
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Know what you mean Matt. I changed the oil in my commando forks yesterday and the sweat was just pissing out of me.
At least Bussleton has a building on the ends of it eh. [ not to mention a wee railway ]
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Great work Matt. You have made some excellent tools to do that work. Looking forward to see the rest of the exercise.
Dereck
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The photo of the left fender more resembles what mine looks like. The right fender appears narrower, so it's shape could be causing the bottom to be lower. If you reshape the right fender to match the left, you may cure the problem. Its 100 years old so don't expect it to be perfect though.
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Retarding the spark is likely to cause hotter running.
Reading this, you seem to have removed and cleaned the radiator and flushed the engine since the overheating [ is that correct? ]. Does it now over-heat??
You described the water flowing out the overflow also after a shorth time, [ or did you??? ]. That would indicate combustion gases in the cooling system.
You mention adding some stop leak type crud to the cooling system and that is also likely to block the radiator [ or the block ] enough to cause overheating [ possibly ].
In order to assist you with the diagnosis, you need to be precise in describing the problem and the timeline for your observations, otherwise we are all guessing.
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On 7/16/2023 at 12:07 PM, Layden B said:
Could be depending on width.
Thanks for this info. My rims are 21 x 3 inch[ measured from inside the rim ] with 5.25 x 21 tyres on them. Obviously Jaxon rims.
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Is this a Chev rim.
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All going well since the refurbished mag was installed and the carb thoroughly cleaned. [ I was busy writing up about the work on the car in other threads, to realize I had not finalized this thread. ]
Working on perfecting the brakes after finding one drum was only 30-50 thou thick. Obtained a replacement that was very rusty and took some time to clean up. Still a work in progress but getting close.
Current job is repairing hood bows and sorting out the remanufacture of the hood [ soft top to those from the States ] The hood had been made from the original Touring hood, but never was able to fold down without covering the seat. No way you could drive the car with the hood down like that. I have reworked the front "irons", to allow it to fold back. I have to do this because or the recommendation to keep the hood up at all times to prevent shrinkage, but it needs to be fold down to get into our garage. Only 2 inches of clearance between top of screen to the tilting door when its up.
The last hurdle to finishing the job is that I live over 90 kms away from the testing station the tests vehicles prior to registration when they haven't been on the road in NZ for such a long time. Problem for me here is that the inspector is required to see the car and it's production numbers before he can get permission from LTSA to check the car. I am supposed to trailer the car down there and back just so he can check the numbers. That really is an insult to my integrity. Why would I lie about the numbers if seriously want to get the vehicle registered for our roads.
That's bureaucratic nonsense at its worst.
By the way, the over fueling problem was related to under ignition problems. Once the mag was fixed there was no more over fueling problem.
Just now, I fixed the problem with the right hand door easily lifting off its hinges. I measure there was 1/4 gap between the top of the top hinge and that restricting bracket, then cut a piece of 1/4 inch rubber sheet, jammed it in above the hinge then refitted the inner cover. That's All fixed now.
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On 6/26/2023 at 1:47 PM, Mark Gregush said:
I have considered installing a dip stick in place of the float.
Don't get it? If there are no holes/leaks, there should be no way for it to just drop if the engine is not running.
Oh well drive and be careful!
As we say here " It's got me buggered" as well.
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Hi JF. I have a variety of drums, some worn with a huge ridge and others that have been machined , and having very little ridge. Yes they have external contracting bands as well a a full shoe inside for the hand brake. The hand brake would probably not wear the inside of the drum so much. I was just hoping someone would have information on what the original spec for the drums were. Not a problem though.
I should have mentioned that we are talking about a 1923 Dodge here.
We have tyre shops here but they are not brake specialists. Estimation of our greater population is approx 16,000.
Hard to know how much the drum would compress, but I suspect it would be minimal otherwise that would be no good.
I am a retired mechanic that used to own my own business way down south of here.
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20 hours ago, JFranklin said:
I took some drums I needed miked to my friendly tire/brake shop and they gave me the answer I was needing, and for free!
JF You must live in an area with a very big population. The nearest brake specialist to me is 0ver 50 miles away. If I am right, the drums were 14 inch OD and there has been 1/16th inch wear, bringing them down to 13 7/8 inch OD. Near enough for me. Still no guarantee what the original thickness or OD might have been though.
When the weather cleared again, the road test showed a great improvement in brake performance. I had to really step on the brakes to even get a feeling the the l/rear was about to lock up. Need to do plenty of driving now to bed it all in.
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Got it all back together and while filling the engine I saw the float rise. Trouble is, it sank to the bottom again. Stuff it.
Thanks Mark. Most of the V8's I worked on only held a gallon so presumed I was on the right track. Still had plenty of oil pressure.
Now a road test to test that brake again, now its stopped raining.
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Understand. Dodge did work to inches and fractions of inches except in 2 places that I have found so far.. the 0.2 inch size of the pin through the front of the crank and the 0.4 inch square on the rear sump bolts.
Not sure how accurately I can measure the inside and outside diam of the drum though. I don't know of a 14 inch micrometer so it will have to be a gestimation.
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On 6/23/2023 at 4:29 PM, JFranklin said:
What is the size of your drum?
14 inch O D
got from Myers, has to pieces to each link, forming a roller type action when in motion, similar to picture. Not a good drawing though
Starter switch/box grounding strap location and type?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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That strap ground the starter switch to the steering column, to steering box, to chassis and then to engine. If you have a good ground wire to the engine that should be sufficient. As the horn is bolted to the engine, that is supposed to work, but best to have a decent ground wire frame all electrical bits, back to the battery and engine.
Grounding through multiple connections and especially through paint should be avoided.
An example of what not to do was demonstrated years ago by someone who had fully rested an old Indian. He could not get the lights to work properly because all parts were thoroughly painted. He then proceeded to remove that paint from all mounting surfaces when he could have run an earth wire back to the battery parallel to the feed wire on all electrical devices [ including the engine ].