Mickaisy
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Posts posted by Mickaisy
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I bought a new battery last year and thought i took a picture before i removed it but guess i didnt. I am unable to get under the car due to a bad accident i had. I checked the manual and the battery they show is different and both terminals come through the same spot. Any ideas are appreciated! Just want to see if i can get her running before i sell her. Thank you!! The battery pic is driver side just a different orientation than the diagram.
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1 hour ago, The 55er said:
Pic 1 is correct. The thickest part of the rubber goes inside of the channel that runs around the top & sides of the skirt. The edge of 1951-1953 88 series skirts mounts outside & over top of the wheel well opening. There has to be a rubber cushion there to prevent rattling & scratching the paint.
Thank you so much! I figured it needed to be on the edge so it wouldn't be metal on metal. Appreciate the quick response!!
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Would like some info on weatherstripping my fender skirts i bought for my 1953 Olds. One of the skirts still has a little bit of rubber on the inside. My question is does the rubber strip get tucked under the lip or does it need a strip around the edge of the skirt? I added some pictures to help. Pic 1 shows strip protecting the edge of the skirt. Pic 2 is tucking it underneath, no rubber on edge. Pic 3 is old rubber that looks tucked under but also might have covered the edge. Any info is much appreciated! Thank you!!
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11 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
Why not ask Danielle if there is a guide to reading them? Surely they should know. question is if they would release that information.
Thank you, i will send her an email.
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Thank you Alan for the information! What I posted is all I received from Danielle. I can ask her when i respond back to her.
the hole punches are interesting, was thinking the holes corresponded to the small numbers in the center of the card but don't know what those numbers mean. I will keep investigating it, thanks again for the info!
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Hello folks,
i did some searching but couldn't find anything on deciphering some of what the hole punches mean on the build record for my 1936 tudor sedan. Any info on what the color was from the punch out means and other sections is greatly appreciated! Looks like it was sent to Boston Mass and stayed in New England its whole life as i bought it in Maine. Still has an old Mass reg sticker on the windshield which is cool!
Thanks in advance! And Danielle S was so polite and amazing as we chatted back and forth a lot due to Covid and being shut down. This record is a couple years in the making but got it today and photo is so easy to read!!
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Sold me the center grill for my 36 and he was so easy to work with and responded to messages very quickly. Thank you and good luck with the sale!
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5 hours ago, The 55er said:
A quick check of their website shows Fender Skirt Depot has no fender skirts available for this application.
Appreciate you looking! I recently did buy a pair off ebay and hope to get them on this spring!
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9 hours ago, vintage1 said:
I know this is an old post but if your still looking you might try Fender Skirt Depot, www.fenderskirtdepot.com
No worries, thanks for the info!!
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Really appreciate the help! Thank you!
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15 minutes ago, The 55er said:
They should fit your car. They mount outside over top of the wheelwell and should be slightly longer than the opening itself. All the 88 series skirts are the same from 1951-1953. They're fairly common items and there are many sets out there for sale.
Thank you so much! I did a quick search and only found these on eBay. Thoughts as to which one you think would be best? I will sand, primer, and paint so as long as no major dings, they should be fine. Thanks again!
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Hey folks,
I have a 1953 Oldsmobile super 88 four door and been contemplating getting some fender skirts. I found some decent priced ones on eBay but it is hard for me to tell if they fit. Was hoping someone can help determine if they will work or not. It seems like the skirts are about 3 inches too long than the opening I measured. Any info on if they fit or not is much appreciated! Thank you!
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21 hours ago, Jack Bennett said:
Worse case scenario…….several years ago I had a friend who owned a beautiful Chevy with a 283. He said his engine started blowing oil back out the breather and carb, and it had a really funny ticking sound. I asked him if anyone had worked on the engine and he emphatically said “no”.
So, I stopped by his house and checked the engine. Sure enough the engine compartment was dripping with oil blown from the breather and the air filter was saturated.The engine did start, and albeit, ran, but not well, and I heard the darndest sound ever which seemed to jump from cylinder to cylinder. He had no compression on number one, and only some on all the others.
I again asked him who had worked on the engine, and he again stated “nobody”.
So, I told him I’d pull the head, but I had no idea what was wrong, or what it would cost to fix it.
The next day was a normal work day for me, it was already late when we started pulling a head……and I wasn’t a happy camper…so I told my friend “If he had lied about having worked on the engine, I was gone, and it was his problem.
Finally the head was off and it was apparent what the problem was. The top of the number one piston was missing and the tops of the other three looked like Swiss cheese.
Again, I asked him what he had done and he admitted that he was tightening the carburetor base flange, and the bolt broke off in the manifold.
Still no explanation for the damage to the piston.
When pressed, he admitted that he had removed the carburetor, drilled into the broken bolt, and attempted to use a easy-out to remove the stub.
Still no explanation to the pistons until he admitted that the easy-out got struck in the hole in the stub, and he could get neither back out…..so he usd some vice grips, and just screwed the stub, with the broken easy out, in until it dropped into the intake manifold. But, he said, the stub and the easy-out disappeared, so he thought they would just find a place to rest in the intake manifold. That’s where they were when he replaced the broken bolt with a new one, and reinstalled the carburetor.
Seems like the tubes to the intake manifold are connected to the cylinders, and some way, the broken bolt and easy out found it’s way there also.
Since the engine had ate a full diet of piston cheese, and surely the crank, cam and bores were shot, I congratulated him on the new 283 he would be buying, and went home.
And that’s a tale about why a engine had no compression on number one 🙄.Great story! My utter lack of mechanical confidence keeps me from even taking off the head unless my buddy is around. If i did something like your friend did, i definitely would have said something to help with the diagnosis😎. Or know that i have a new crate engine being delivered and not care what i messed up! I would like to keep the original engine, adds to the awesome character of the car! Thanks again for the tale!
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17 minutes ago, jpage said:
Yeah, thank you for your service. sounds like an interesting but dangerous job!
I can work on a wildland fire engine and pumps but feel like can't do a damn thing with any other engine, lol!
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30 minutes ago, ply33 said:
Thank you for your service!
Pays the bills! It does take me to some cool areas!
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19 hours ago, ply33 said:
For what it is worth, most of the L-head (flat head) 6 engine gaskets on Plymouth and US built Dodge passenger cars were the same from around 1933 through the end of production for industrial uses in the early 1970s. There are some variations (head gasket different in 1933/34 and again for internal vs external coolant bypass in the 1950s) but basic engine was manufactured for about 40 years.
Because they were used for so many years many parts are still readily available through your local better auto supply. They may not have the cross reference information in their computers, so a place that still has an old set of paper catalogs is a better choice. I have found that the big chain’s web look up tools find matches from the original Chrysler part numbers even if they don’t have the information for your specific make and year, so getting a copy of the factory parts book is really, really, really worth doing.
I maintain my own cross reference database for Plymouth to assist in this type of thing. I believe the Dodge and Plymouth numbers are the same for your head and pan gaskets.
For the head gasket see: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group9#9-03-05 The Fel-Pro cross reference is 7564C.
For the pan gasket see: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#10-24-05 with a Fel-Pro cross reference to OS4250C.
Both should be available, perhaps with a day or so delay to get from a warehouse, at your local auto supply. For that type of thing I usually call my local auto supply in the morning and they usually have it by that same afternoon though it can take longer depending on what warehouse they have to pull from and the schedule for drivers from the warehouses to the retail stores.
Thank you for the informative post! Really appreciate the links too! 👍
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7 hours ago, Taylormade said:
Did you take off the side cover to see if the valves were moving? This is a five minute job. If the valves are free, you can move on to broken piston rings or other possible problems that are causing the noise and lack,of compression.
I only do engine stuff when my friend can come over so i dont mess anything up, haha! I am not mechanically inclined and dont know the side cover to check!
Looks like i will be headed out West to fight the large Oregon wild fire. Being a wildland firefighter helps pay for my classic cars but downside is little to no internet in remote areas for a few weeks. 😝
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5 hours ago, Jack Bennett said:
Shade tree….maybe! But, if it works, it’s worth repeating here. I used a old spark plug and a air chuck, which fits my compressor hose, and made a thing similar to a compression gauge adapter, to inject pressurized air into each cylinder of my 1923 Dodge Brothers 4 cylinder engine. By removing the spark plugs, and screwing the modified spark plug/air fitting into the spark plug hole, I can bring the piston to TDC, which seals the combustion chamber, and throw some air into the hole…..with the transmission in low and the wheels blocked to prevent the engine from turning off TDC. By listening to the inlet port at the carb, the exhaust ports of the engine, and each of the other spark plug holes, I can easily detect a unsealed intake or exhaust valve or a head gasket leak between cylinders. Also, remove the radiator cap, and with a full radiator, look for bubbles which may indicate either a leaking head casket or cracked head.
Thanks Jack! We did some listening and the only cylinder with a consistent knock sound is the #1 cylinder with no compression which is why i dont think it is stuck but a mechanical issue. I want to try the mystery oil but sounds messy...especially getting it out after i put it in. Coworker and friend helping me listen:
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On 7/14/2021 at 9:46 PM, nearchoclatetown said:
I am not an expert but agree with others here. Don't spend money YET. Find out what is going on, you may not have to take it apart. Even then, take it apart and figure out what you need, you may need more or less then what you first thought. It sounds like you may have not been down this road before? No problem but get a good manual for your year. There is no order to disassembly just assembly. ALL heads start at the center and work out in a circular order. Make your self a drawing or use a magic marker and number the studs. At least three torque levels, starting around 20 or so. Make sure everything is clean and threads are very clean before you start. Patience!
Thanks for the info choclatetown! My first go at a stuck valve/no compression and working on this engine! So much knowledge on this forum!
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On 7/15/2021 at 1:34 AM, Uptowndodge said:
I have all the gaskets you need.NOS
Hey Uptown, thank you!! I will pm you next week when i see what is going on!
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3 hours ago, JFranklin said:
Before you go to all the trouble to remove the head, take a look with a light down the spark plug hole to see if it is not a valve stuck open causing no compression. if so maybe you can use penetrant and very gentle persuasion to free it up. I have used a wooden dowel to push a stuck valve closed and it freed up after a few revolutions. Some Marvel Mystery Oil down the carb after will keep things free.
thank you for the tip! I had one friend look at it and do what you said so i bought marvel mystery oil and had another buddy say it wont do anything to replace the head gasket. Both friends are excellent mechanics/engineers so i have a lot to learn. Thanks JFranklin! -
Afternoon,
I have a 1936 two door sedan with 6 cylinder. Engine starts right up but noticed the engine shaking (maybe mounts) and a slight click near radiator. My friend helped do a compression check and 2-6 had 105 to 115 but cylinder 1 has 0. He told me to get a head gasket, oil pan gasket, and anything else that i should have before i remove the head.
1) where to buy a 1936 head gasket and oil pan gasket,
2) anything else you recommend i fix or replace when i remove the head?
3) is there a diagram that shows which engine bolts to remove first? Like remove 1 bolt near radiator side then remove a second on the firewall side?
4) lastly, anything missing or look out of place with the engine? Been having trouble finding an air cleaner for the carb.
Thanks in advance!!!
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Very nice! Good luck with the sale!
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On 4/6/2021 at 5:21 PM, nearchoclatetown said:
I have not used Grain-it products but have watched them at Hershey several times. They , of course, make it look very easy.
The pros always do! I am more concerned with using the right products to attack the surface rusting. Might start another post with pictures when I am ready to do the dash!
1936 dodge battery terminals? Which is pos or neg?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Thank you for the info everyone!! Fingers crossed i can wake her up and not blow her up!