Seedee

Quick update!!! I received the parts and they are with the machine shop! Machinist said if everything goes well and no unexpected surprises happen, the block and crank will be completed by the 17th! He did bring something to my attention though on the block that I didn't even notice before! Apparently there's two water passages that were capped by freeze plugs next to the water passage "restrictors" ( two freeze plugs with holes drilled through them) I told him to just go ahead and punch all four out and drill through the two new ones. I still need to tear through the spare engine asap so I can free up the stand for the new one though... definitely got my hands full, again!

The max size they have a .060 over! I think their supplier is called Rebuilders Choice but not sure. I'll be keeping an eye out for when you starts yours I did a thing the other day... I picked up a spare engine and transmission which came out of a 1950 olds 88 convertible I believe? I'm going to be breaking down the engine for some odd and end internal parts I need so if anything would like something let me know! I'll most likely be posting parts up on eBay at a later date!

The block is being done at the shop, the heads were done quite awhile ago at a different shop. New valve guides were put in. I used NORS intake and exhaust valves I found on eBay. Had hardened valve seats installed on the exhaust ports and had them decked. Now. The block is being decked as well, it is being bored .040" oversized. ( Me and the Machinist decided to go straight to .040" instead of taking the worst cylinder to .030" and seeing if it needed to go larger!) and we're grinding the crankshaft main bearings and rod bearings to .020" I tried sourcing my Pistons from egge but they had a 4-month lead time! So instead I found a company in New Jersey called Kanter that had a master rebuild kit for a price I couldn't pass up! So that stuff should be here by the end of this week. It's hard to believe that it's finally all coming together after so long!

Hey everyone! Figured I'd revive this old thread, don't worry restoration is still on going...with life and family it's kind of hard to keep on track with everything! I haven't done much with the car itself but thankfully I have FINALLY saved up enough money to send the block and internals to the machine shop... It'll be a few weeks to give y'all an update on that but I'm just glad I was finally able to get the ball rolling. Also, I took the block to a fabricator to have a run stand made but at first glance it may look "tall" but I did that so I wouldn't be stooped over the engine and killing my back. Least I have enough room to mount the muffler, exhaust pipe etc underneath!

Title says it all. When I got my Olds 88 few years back the rocker moldings weren't with the vehicle, fast forward to now. I have the moldings but have no clue how to install these! The clips as shown below are the only thing I can find for the moldings. The parts book that I have says that you need 22 of these Now on my car there's no sign where you can "screw" these to or a spot what a J clip where go! All I can find was this on the inner rockers but there is no hole out the outer rocker panel So are the rocker panels supposed to have holes where you attach the clips to?! If anyone can shed any light on how I go about putting them would be great

surprised how well these are turning out! finally got the driver side trim on test fitting how the windshield trim and the wiper transmission looks. Having trouble with the transmission bracket but I sourced the brackets from a 1952 model....the brackets are inverted when comparing pictures for a 1949 model but I'm hoping it will work

Here are the clips I ordered to help you out, I have to warn you the ears on the upper molding clips don't like to bend too much and are easy to snap so get extras. For all the doors I think after shipping for me was just over $100... For the front and rear window I found a place on eBay that that has something that are "close" to the OEM but I haven't ordered them yet...the original seems to let the bolt slide back and forth and the reproductions don't. I'll be ordering them soon and let you know how they turn out ..I have enough originals to put on both the left and right front trim on... I have, however bought a center moulding trim from a Chevy fleetliner for the windshield and let y'all know if it fits!

we're slowly getting there with the clips! Still a pain in the backside to put on!Much better! Found out how to put the upper window trim on A LOT easier and faster. Just used a c clamp (make sure the jaw pads are on it!) And slowly tighten it along the edge where the clips are so the trim will push the tabs in and over the inner lip of the chrome! and the other side now, rinse and repeat! More pictures soon!

Hey everyone!!! I know it's been a long awhile since I posted...a lot of things have been going on but now back on course! I did make a part 4 which was the last bit of disassembly but I can't get the link to work on here so just scroll up and find it through the YouTube channel I got! The engine rebuild is on hold (still) but don't worry it will get done! Lately I've been starting to buff out the chrome for the Olds and surprised how well they are coming out! Excuse the messy workplace! It took me awhile to find some clips for the beltline and upper window moulding and for the price per clip i found a place in Cali called Truck and Car Shop. Now yes the parts they supply are for Chevys but some GM parts were interchangeable at the time Now these upper moulding clips were an absolute pain to install I ended up sitting one ear into the hole on the door and push the clip till the other ear slid into it. Normally it needed a light hammer to finish it off. I got this side mostly done but I'm having trouble getting the upper trim to "snap" onto the bottom side of the clip in some places. Any suggestions would be great! As time goes on, I'll add some more pictures

So, in my slow preparations before sending the block out to the machine shop I noticed these orifices or "restrictiors" that look pretty corroded. At the front of the block on both sides. I can't tell if they were casted (which I highly doubt) or are they a type of core plug punched in during assembly. Fearing they won't survive the cleaning process I'm curious if there's a mention of these "restrictiors' in anyone's parts book? Or I have to fabricate a replacement. You can't tell in the photo but there is a lip around the opening. I figured best would be just to drill the same diameter into a steel core plug and drive it in. But any insight would be appreciated!

Pretty much. But you know what... It's not so much as if it's a PITA. Which, to be honest anything that we work with that's going to be this old will be. It's the joy of taking it apart and learning from it. To me that's the most satisfying thing of doing this and documenting my journey on doing this is all the more worthwhile!

I suspect it's probably to do with the timing gears as the pitch change from 1/2" to 3/8"? I can't remember. I do also recall the ratio changed from 1.5 to 1.8 but thats not until the 324 was released? Again, I can't remember! If you need help with the camshaft I can let you know which one I got from them just PM me. Veering back on course. I FINALLY broke loose the dipstick tube, but. Don't bother with using a 9/16" deep socket. As I found out you just end up squashing the end of the tube and flare it out. What actually worked perfectly was a drive punch from none other than harbor freight. The punch itself was just a little smaller than the ID of the tube and the shoulder rested over the lip of the tube, a good 15 minutes with MAPP gas, few shots of freeze spray and solid blows shocked it loose. Now I just have to get a file and remove the flared material and off it comes!

It's very tough at this point....from what I've found the majority of suppliers that have the pistons are getting them made under contract from a foundry in Taiwan. As far as Fusick, I haven't asked them but most certainly they are getting it from the same place...Egge...I'm not sure if they still make pistons in house anymore. but charging almost $700 for a set they better be! Most of the parts I've gotten so far (camshaft, valve guides) have been from an eBay store called Falcon global. They sell the pistons as well so I might just get it from them and I'll update y'all with my untrained eye "quality inspection" when I get them! Now, piston size is a whole other story! Besides one supplier that has them at .020' oversize everyone else is .030' and beyond. Good luck getting these pistons from JE or Silv-o-lite unless you want to custom order them! But long story short...I'll probably go .030' over but that depends on what the machine shop says.

Quick update!! Machine work is underway on the cylinder heads! New valve guides, intake, exhaust valves and springs are being replaced, valve seats ground for the new valves but new seats aren't required ( thank goodness!) As far as the block goes. I'll have to scrounge pennies and save but the machine shop did offer to clean and measure everything on the block and coat everything in cosmoline afterwards so it doesn't rust the bare metal...which is nice! Least then my garage will stop smelling like old grease and oil! And I'll be more prepared for what's needed on the block.

Yeah, the bore does look pretty rough! Haven't had a chance to get back into disassembly. But I'll put a link in to the newest video I have up. It's not a short video by any means just a heads up!