MargaritavilleBuick
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Posts posted by MargaritavilleBuick
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Here is a picture of a very nice restoration showing what appears to be a complete dash. My dash has holes for the two switches on the far left. Based on the condition of the car when I acquired it, I have no earthly idea what they are for.
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Well, the quest is over for replacement right and left hand taillights. As you can see the two buckets on the left are the result of rotten seals, winter salts, and neglect. These were original to the car and had been removed and tossed in the trunk. The previous owner was in the process of replacing them with an aftermarket set that were flush with the fender.
The one on the top right was provided by a friend on this site hailing from Australia. The one on the bottom right was found in Texas. These should clean up and made to match beautifully.
Now for the next quest....
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Howdy fellows. Wheeling in.
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I am finally getting reenergized about putting a new wiring harness in the Buick. The previous owner stripped the old out with the idea of making a hot rod. Currently it’s sitting....sitting....sitting... Needs to be driven and enjoyed.
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Hope these helps, I just grabbed them from other posts. I am searching for a passenger side lamp, but would purchase a pair if required.
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I may be interested in this. Is 100 buck firm? Can you provide me with the dimensions?
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Hi guys, I am still looking for a taillight for my Buick. I would sure appreciate it someone were willing to part with an extra passenger side bezel.
Thanks
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Thanks guys. The new harness will be color coded and professionally installed. The diagram and other information will be slipped inside the owners manual and kept in the glove box.
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Thanks Jim. I appreciate the conversion tips and will put them to good use.
Owen
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For regular use, I am converting to a 12-volt system (will restore the 6-volt if I ever sell it). I am doing this because the dingle-berry before me removed 80 percent of the original wiring. As I think this through I realize that reducers will be needed for some of the gages and horns. In regards to the heater fan, is there a 12-volt replacement motor that will preserve the integrity of the heater box and easily wired into the system?
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On 2/19/2020 at 9:39 PM, 50jetback said:
Always a problem on old cars.
The centre hinge is different to the 2 sides and is held together by the centre stainless strip - hopefully yours is not damaged or rusted. Soak it with WD40 or similar and see if the stainless strip slides off. This will split the top section of the hood into two easier to handle sides.
I have loaded a number of photos of a standard hood and a Century hood ( same but just 4" longer ) which should give you an idea of how it all works. The rod tends to rust solid in the hinge tags.
The first problem is to remove the rod if it is rusted in place - a lot of soaking is required. In the past I have heated the tags and opened them up slightly with a wide bladed screwdriver but others here may have a better suggestion.
Any tags that are broken off can be welded back on.
Study the photos and ask about anything you don't understand.
We are all anxious to see another 1936 back on the road.
If you are willing to part with the damaged chrome insert, I am needing a piece to fabricate some missing shorter pieces that have fallen out along the way.
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9 hours ago, MargaritavilleBuick said:
Well that sounds like the way to go....but....where are you mounting the second six volt? Currently my car has a flimsy cradle under the seat that barely holds one battery.
Is this right? I do better with illustration.
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Just learned this was marketed in Britain and the U.S. for universal applications. It was advertised as "top of the line" in November 1935. It features 8 AM tuned circuits, 12V storage battery (?), electromagnetic dynamics, moving coil/field excitation coil, energized loud speaker, and it's super heterodyne (?). The knobs are apparently made of wood. The center knob is tone control.
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I just learned that this unit may be 12v. True?
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My 36 Buick Business Coupe did not come with a radio which surprised me a bit. It does however, have the ashtray and cigar lighter. I have started researching the aftermarket radios available to consumers in 1936. The biggest competitors appear to have been Philco and Delco. I know that Buicks ran a high and low end Delco. Not sure about Philco. My grandparents had a Philco box radio in their home as well as a GE.
While searching for a period radio I stumbled across this Philco needing some TLC. I probably paid too much for it, but it appears in decent shape. Looks like the Buick will be getting a reconditioned after-market 1935-1936 Philco; I really like the Art Deco design Am I breaking a taboo here?
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5 hours ago, Crazyfamily said:
No Sir, converting the generator to a dual output so everything will be retained on the 6v side but it will also be able to output 12v as well. Changing over to two 6v Optima batteries wired in series so one battery will run the 6 v side of the vehicle and then combined batteries will take care of the 12v side so it will retain the stock look aside from having two batteries. Everything can be removed easily if needed and besides the generator being rewound no other modifications will be made.AND if needed I can switch out the modified generator out and go back to a stock purely 6v generator if needed! Best of both worlds in my opinion.
Well that sounds like the way to go....but....where are you mounting the second six volt? Currently my car has a flimsy cradle under the seat that barely holds one battery.
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32 minutes ago, Crazyfamily said:
Or you run two separate systems, a 6v and touch nothing in the car so it keeps its originality, AND a separate 12v system to run modern items of your choosing!
This is the way I am going.....
Aren't you going to have to run an alternator for the 12V alternate?
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All I know to do it heat them and roll them back around the rod. The metal doesn't want to bend with standard tools and I don't want to screw up the rest of the hood.
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Working with the hood hinges again. Here is a shot of the hinge receivers along the top portion of the hood assembly. Not sure if these have been stretched or if they are supposed to be saddled. Any pics from a completed hood would be much appreciated
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10 hours ago, Buick35 said:
I'm unaware of a starter button behind the accelerator. My 35 looks like the picture of the 37s. The carburetor linkage moves the lever on the vacuum switch on the manifold. I removed mine because the vacuum switch would sometimes activate the starter while the engine was running and just installed a push button instead.Greg
I believe that is what happened with mine at some point. Someone put a starter button on the column.
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Does anyone have pictures showing the correct autostart button behind the accelerator and the linkage from the firewall to the relay and carb?
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The ignition was a cool feature. I miss that car.
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My 59 Buick had its starter button hidden behind the accelerator. Was this a feature in 1936?
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Two switches on far left of dash....36 Buick
in Buick - Pre War
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