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  1. Thanks John and all of you for your input and advice. I have concluded that I have a very well done older restored 1924 Ford Model T that at sometime in its life it won a Junior Award. With the exception of the top, it is in excellent condition, runs great and is a stunning show car. If patching the top doesn't work out a new top will be in order. Thank you all again, John
  2. no, the fuel line with the shut off is not original. It requires replacement with an authentic fuel line. Its 1 of 3 things that I know have to be replaced. The others are the choke rod and the battery wire to the ignition switch which is down to 1 barely hanging on strand of wire.
  3. Thanks Carl. Seeing how there has been such a good response and interest in trying to resolve my dilemma in establishing the status of this Model T that I will try to download some pictures. Here is one of the engine. I will have to reduce the size of my pics in order to get more on here.
  4. Here is what I found at the Ford Barn web site on engine paint "Bruice McCauley did a lot of research for his book & the following is his take on engine painting. The bottom line looks like most engines were bare metal, some were lightly painted black & some of the "Improved cars" were moleskin. Nuts, bolts, and small assemblies which could be seen easily, were also painted, even though such parts were installed after the painting process. Ford had people with paint and brush in hand to “touch up” such parts. While there may be exceptions, all exposed pieces were painted, and this includes the cotter keys in these pieces. Engines, engine pans, and splash shields (at the side of the engine) may or may not have been painted. Again, the consensus is that many engines were not painted but that some were painted in a very thin black during the Model T era. Late 1926 and 1927 engines were painted Moleskin, at least at the main factory. Even here, though, there were exceptions. Engine pans follow the same pattern. The dust shields were probably painted body color in the early years, and black through 1927. Floor boards were generally not painted but may have been given a coat of linseed oil or similar. Indeed, there are no hard and fast rules on what was and what was not painted on any Model T. There were too many variations. ENGINE PAINTING1927In Walter T. Fishleigh's files in Accession 94 at the Ford Archives there is a memo dated July 26, 1926 entitled: “Finish For Model T Motors”. It lists the finish to be put on each of the exposed parts of the motor. Black Pyroxlylin used on: Transmission Cover Starter Motor Generator Crankcase Commutator Black Graphite Paint used on: Exhaust Manifold and Carburetor Black Enamel used on: Breather Cap Commutator Retainer Spring Manifold Clamps Nickel Plate used on: Cylinder Head Cap Screws Spark Plug caps and Thumb Nuts Spark Plug Wire Terminals Coil Box Terminal Bolts and Nuts Water Connection Cap Screws Manifold Cap Screws Bright Zinc Plate used on: Cut Out Cover Moleskin Pyroxylin used on: Cylinder Cylinder Head Generator Bracket Front Cover Air Intake and Manifold Me ....Moleskin Pyroxylin is an olive color that could have turned grey.
  5. got it .. put that item in the restored column Thank you
  6. Thanks trimacar for sharing your experience. Who knows, I probably will wind up in the same boat. I am looking at the engine compartment - the grey paint is barely peeling off, the head looks like it never has been off. The dust pans around the engine block ( which usually get tossed) are still in tact and look like they never have been removed. The paint on the underside is in such good condition it would have had to been a body-off restoration. The hunt for the past life of this car goes on PS The 10 million I referred to in my previous post was 10 million up to 1924. I don't know how many were produced in 1924 let alone how many Roadsters were produced.
  7. Hi Mathew, Its not that I "want" to believe its an original, its that I can't believe that it "isn't" an original. I appreciate the fact that you are a very credible knowledgeable person with a lot of experience trying to help a novice. During the past 5 years I have brought successfully out of mothballs, a 1966 Buick Riviera (25 years stored) and a 1924 Ford Model T Roadster (10+ years unused). I belong to the "Antique Restoration Club" of Sun City West, Arizona (600+ members). I contacted the owner of the museum's son (the owner had passed away) who knew nothing about the Model Ts that had been in the museum. Because of his total lack of interest , the museum closed and I ended up with this car. Based on what you say, if it turns out to be an original then it will be the rarest of rare Model Ts of which 10 million were produced. Now its time to get some local Model T club members involved in this quest.
  8. First to MCHinson. Thank you for the info about needing to change class category. I did get in contact with Rick Gawel who is in charge of awards. Because the badge has no date, serial number or name they have no way to track it down. 61Polara, your input is greatly appreciated and I have scrutinized this Model T very carefully and marvel at its condition. Concerning the Junior badge, I believe it predates the ability to enter into the HPOF class that was started in 1988 because 1. the car has been in a museum since 1988 and 2 it must be an early badge dating in the 50's because it has no number or date. The award program started in 1952 and who knows when the AACA figured that they should put dates and numbers on them. I am taking your advise and will pursue as many avenues as I can to determine this the status of this car.
  9. Thank YOU Phillip. I have the 3-11 form and checked it over. interestingly there is no convertible top listing to state it is a replaced item I guess I do that under "other".
  10. I agree with you Restorer32. The big question: What impact does it have on an otherwise 'ORIGINAL" car. Its a shame if this top was replaced for 'status" reasons therefore causing it it to be disqualified as an original.
  11. Thanks for your response Mathew. To answer your question, to my knowledge the car has not been certified HPOF. It only has a "First Prize Winner" badge on it. I am trying to figure out if the top will prevent it from achieving "original" status. I plan to repair it the way Trimacar instructed or find an expert to do it.
  12. Thank you Phillip & trimacar. Please, trimacar, I welcome a critique from someone who has knowledge on the subject such as you do. I based my opinion on the following: 1, The body of the car is in pristine condition, inside, outside and underneath. 2. The engine compartment indicates very little use. 3. The top is made of one piece of heavy grade canvas. So why, if the car was this well kept, need a new top? Now, after your comments, I examined the top and come away with this conclusion: Its not the original top --It is far superior to the original. I have seen pictures of Model Ts and many of their tops are flimsy, floppy and saggy. Not only is this top made of one piece of heavy grade canvas, it has a double top with padding in between. It has the canvas wrapped around the top of the bows to keep the canvas from chaffing, Not only does it have trim on the front and back bow but, it has metal trim around the two rear windows. I believe the original owner was"well-to-do" and had this top custom made. Now, how does this impact the cars AACA status??
  13. I have a 1924 Ford Model T Roadster in original excellent condition except for a tear in the top. I want to seek AACA "ORIGINAL" status for this car. I plan to 'mend" or "patch" this tear because I want to maintain its "originality. Is there a judge out there who will tell me how they would treat this top? Thanks, John
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