LarryA

Rondo: Thanks for the photos. I also created a homemade solution (at least temporarily) by installing a rubber roof vent boot around the steering column to cover the opening. Doesn’t look great, but it keeps the ai/debris out. Hopefully I can figure out a more elegant, aesthetically-pleasing solution in the future. Thanks again for your input.

I'm looking for a replacement part or other solution for closing up the opening around the steering column. I have attached a photo which shows whats left of the original piece. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement part for this? My 37 Plymouth is still basically an original car and I would prefer to keep it that way. Any help is much appreciated. Larry

I'm looking for a replacement part or other solution for closing up the opening around the steering column. I have attached a photo which shows whats left of the original piece. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement part for this? My 37 Plymouth is still basically an original car and I would prefer to keep it that way. Any help is much appreciated. Larry

Just wanted to provide an update on my 37. I ended up completely re-wiring my headlights, parking lights, taillights & brake lights. Found all kinds of things which could have been contributing to my problems. All my exterior lights are now working properly. I just got the windshield wipers (vacuum motors) working today. That completes my inspection checklist so I can now get it titled & registered which I plan to do tomorrow. I wanted to thank everyone for their advice, it was very helpful in resolving my electrical issues. Thanks again. Larry

OK. After disassembling the tail/brake light and cleaning everything thoroughly, it was functioning properly - at least for about 15 minutes. That’s the point I created another problem. While mounting the headlight switch back into the dash, I bumped the hot wire, got a quick spark, and now no lights. I checked the fuse behind the ammeter & it had continuity. Continuity on each wire from the headlight switch rings out as it should, but when I connect the hot wire to say the tail lights, there is continuity on the taillight contact, the brake light contact, the brake light housing, etc. To me, this is telling me I have a short circuit ahead of the headlight switch. I am looking at the connections behind the ammeter as a starting point. Is there an easy way to get.to this? I used a mirror and a flashlight so I could see to get to the fuse. As before any advice is appreciated. P.S. I will be disconnecting the battery before re-installing any switches in the future.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I will dig into this later this week and hopefully get it resolved. Keithb7: Most of the wiring seems to be original but some has been replaced. I was told the car was restored about 15 years ago. The body, floors, paint, etc. are in very good condition but I’m not sure how far the previous owner(s) went with the restoration. I guess I will find out as I continue to go through the car. Again, thanks to everyone for their advice. I’ll post an update once I spend some more time with my new toy.

I recently purchased a 1937 Plymouth. The car is basically original and I have been trying to fix some of the 6 volt wiring issues. Currently I have all of the exterior lights working properly with the exception of the stop/tail lights. With the headlights and/or parking lights off, both brake lights work as they should. With either the parking lights or the headlights on, both taillights work but if I step on the brake pedal, only the left light gets brighter. I have replaced the bulbs and both work properly on the left side. Anyone have any idea how to fix this? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.