barnett468
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Posts posted by barnett468
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I sent you
On 10/15/2019 at 5:01 PM, dei said:Requesting help putting a value on a friends 1958 Ford Fairlane club sedan.
It was her Dad's car, has been sitting for four years and she would like to see it go to a person with interests in this make of car.
The photo's were taken today at the service garage who has gone over it to get it running and make sure the brakes are in working order.
The car will require some detailing like polishing out the slightly faded red paint and cleaning the chrome under the hood but without having looked underneath, appears to be in good overall condition.
I'm not sure the V8 is a period correct Ford engine (not familiar with Ford products of this era) and not sure if the floor shift transmission is a three or four speed. Things like the custom grill, dummy spot lights and the seat upholstery suggest his ideas of "customising" but generally the car has that stock look and could be restored to stock if one so wanted.
Putting it out there to help her get an idea from a group of car people and not the "good deal hunters" she has encountered so far. Any and all thoughts appreciated.
(I have too many cars in my stable to take this one on but looks like a fun ride)
I sent you a private message.
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On 10/26/2019 at 6:48 AM, WQ59B said:
Here's the bidding history; yeah, something definitely off on this auction :
Link to original auction : https://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Chevrolet-Bel-Air-150-210/193164777147?hash=item2cf98496bb:g:ZbQAAOSwe0xdqg1u
Yup, quite obviously bogus bidding if one understands how ebay's bidding works.
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So that's why they call it a "drain" plug!
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38 minutes ago, Grimy said:
Depends on what "normal" is to you--that's from a lifetime of non-detergent oil plus (probably) a lot of sitting. yet a number of collectors seem to want to run non-detergent (I agree, that's a misnomer) in their pre-war cars.
From an engine builders standpoint, I really don't know why they would run a non detergent oil, but if they do, they should change it frequently whether they drive the car much or not.
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2 minutes ago, Grimy said:
Now you can see sludge buildup in crankshaft oil passages:
"Crank turds" from a friend's 1920 Pierce-Arrow
That is quite obviously not the norm and doesn't occur under normal use and normal maintenance etc.
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47 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:
I use dino oil and additive.
What additive do you use, and why not just buy oil that has something similar to what you want if it is available?
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59 minutes ago, Tinindian said:
Many of our old engines are L head so there is no "top end".
Yes I know, so on those there is no need to worry about pieces breaking off of the head and plugging an oil drain port.
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59 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:
Oxidation causes oil to turn to sludge, i.e. thicken. Anti-oxidant additives slow that process. If you run the engine with sludge, it is everywhere.
I have been building engines for around 45 years and do it for a living as part of my job, and I have never, ever, seen "sludge" build up anywhere other than on the head or in the oil pan, unless it is an inline engine that has the lifters on the side of the block, in which case I have seen some minor "sludge" there, and I have disassembled engines that had 1/4 thick buildup caked onto the top of the cylinder head.
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1 hour ago, bryankazmer said:
I think the key additive question is whether it's a detergent oil - if the engine is newly rebuilt, use it. If it's been together a long time there is the risk of pulling off deposits and clogging small passages.
I know there are a couple other folks with some technical experience in this on the board. Let's stick to the science vs anecdotes
If someone wants to run a low detergent oil that has high levels of zinc, one option is Valvoline "Not street legal racing oil". The quote from them below is old, and the last time I checked with them, their VR1 contained 1250 zinc and not 1300.
"Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent zinc and .12 percent phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil, which contains .14 percent zinc and .13 percent phosphorus."
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
The majority of "sludge" in an engine is on the top of the cylinder head and bottom of the oil pan, so in general, the worst case scenario is that some hardened chunks of build up break off the head and completely plug up the return port that allows the oil to drain back into the pan. If someone is concerned about this happening, they can simply remove their valve cover and inspect the top of the head for caked on deposits etc. Any debris in the pan is filtered small enough by an oil filter (if the engine has one) that it is impossible for it to plug any other passages.
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11 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:
Reference(s) please? It may lead to increase wear, I think because of the ash in the combustion chamber when it burns. But attacking the camshaft? hmmmm
Here's a statement from Valvoline I just found online for you.
"Keep in mind that zinc additives are corrosive above certain levels and can harm your engine. Valvoline doesn’t recommend using third-party additives to boost the zinc level. If higher zinc levels are required for your engine, we recommend using Valvoline VR-1, and always remember to consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual."
https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
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22 minutes ago, Isaiah said:
I learned of the zink additive on Jay Leno''s utube last night he had a man that over builds motors for the 360 Porche.
Yes I don’t spell to good but my spell check is worse than mine .
what they brought out that there was zink in the oil up until they went to putting catalytic converters on the vehicles and the zink didn’t work with the catalytic converters.
BTW Jay said he uses the additive in his cars.
What jay does or does not do is completely irrelevant and sometimes not the best thing to do. You should NOT put additives in your oil, it's that simple.
Also, the fact is that ALL engine oils I am aware of have ZDDP in them, including the ones approved for cars with catalytic converters. They simply use less zddp in the oil for cat cars than they do in their non cat car racing oil lines etc.
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38 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:
Reference(s) please? It may lead to increase wear, I think because of the ash in the combustion chamber when it burns. But attacking the camshaft? hmmmm
It has been determined to attack the metal as I stated. It wasn't an opinion or a guess. You can find this out by doing your own research, because unfortunately, as I mentioned, all this info is in my other computer, however, in a quick google search I found a scientific paper that states, " The experimental results confirmed that phosphorus has a deleterious effect on the corrosion resistance of carbon steels in H2SO4 solution as a result of the higher hydrogen activity.". This obviously isn't the same metal or same circumstance as it being used as an additive in oil for an engine, but the end results are similar.
https://corrosionjournal.org/doi/abs/10.5006/1.3524835
You may or may not get an accurate answer form Lubrizol, who is the largest supplier of engine oil additives to the engine oil mfg's, or from Blackstone Labs, but you can call them and ask.
ZDDP is a bit like drinking alcohol. Too little doesn't have much affect at all and too much can be seriously detrimental.
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11 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:
First I heard of zinc added to motor oil was about 1951 when the new OHV engines were having some cam and lifter wear problems, especially Chrysler and Studebaker. The heavy valve mechanism and stiff valve springs put more load on the cam/lifter surface than the old flatheads, or low speed OHV like Chevrolet six.
When everyone went to OHC engines it meant simple, light valve train and light valve springs again so no need for zinc. Any pushrod engines, went to roller lifters which accomplish the same thing (prevent lifter wear).
Whether your OHV V8 from the fifties, sixties or seventies with flat tappet cam needs zinc after break in I could not say, but it can't hurt, especially on a hi perf engine with hot cam and stiff springs.
Now here is a weird one. Oldest reference to zinc in oil I have seen, was from a manual or formula book from the 1870s called The CIrcle of Useful Knowledge. It had a formula for watchmaker's oil. Put a piece of zinc in a bottle of olive oil. I tried it and the zinc seemed to dissolve into the oil after a few weeks giving it a gray color. I used a bit of zinc off an old Mason jar ring. Wonder if you could get the same result by putting a piece of zinc in your crankcase.
All types of engines benefit from some zddp, especially higher performance ones. Zinc is nearly useless in oil on its own. It needs a carrier which is why they add Phosphorous to it. Some of the oil mfg's are now using Boron instead of phosphorous, and although they still refer to this combo as ZDDP, I call it ZDDB which is actually correct.
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15 minutes ago, Grimy said:
Has anyone done the research to determine what oil temps are necessary, in Spinneyhill's case, to "release" the viscosity of his 5W-40 to the equivalent of straight SAE 30 or SAE 40?
Yes, and you may find it online, but if I recall correctly, it is more than 118 f. I have a ton of info on oil including that, but it is in my other computer that died.
bobistheoilguy.com has more info on oil than you will find anywhere.
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Just now, Spinneyhill said:
Can you tell us where you found out about this please?
It is in some scientific literature.
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Don't put additive in the oil.
Valvoline Racing has around 1250 ppm which is enough for these engines, and 20w/50 should be sufficient for most apps . Anything over around 1800 ppm of zddp won't add any additional protection and it can start to attack the camshaft.
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1. Both people look nearly identical in every single way.
2. The fact that the photo was in a magazine or something similar suggests the people are famous.
3. If the car in the photo belongs to the people in the photo, it suggests they are fairly wealthy.
4. This adds up to it being more likely that it is them than not.
Lillian Disney. Compare the eyes and the cheeks.
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9 hours ago, Billy Kingsley said:
What are the odds that the stems will randomly all match location? Not putting them that way, but randomly parking and having them match? In theory it is possible.
Around one quintillion.
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37 minutes ago, lump said:
I recall reading about one of those famous old time movie producers who was a fanatic for little details in his films. It was said that he would have crew members jack up a car that was about to be in a scene in which it rolled up in a driveway for a dramatic entrance by the star(s) of the film. He insisted that the wheels should end up with both hubcaps on that side of the car being oriented so that the name on the hubcaps should be exactly level and right-reading. The article that I read said this was harder than it sounds, and it took many takes to get it right...much to the annoyance of the some of the rest of the film crew.
This may have been Cecile B. DeMille...but I'm not sure.
This was only done in one movie which was at the very beginning. I think the car was a Yellow or White Rolls or Bentley, and yes, they took many takes.
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5 minutes ago, Frantz said:
Not sure yet, haven't tore into that that to check condition. If they are okay then I plan to.
Ok, just in case you don't know, you must keep the lifters in order.
As far as the valve spring shims go, they cost nearly half as much as new springs do, so you would be better off getting new springs if your current ones are even just a little low. If it was me, I would buy new ones anyway, instead of buying a spring tester.
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7 minutes ago, Frantz said:
Spring tester I had picked up awhile back
No stop, just a pressure gauge. Given the range it's perhaps not precise enough for the job.. and time to buy another tool!
Specs come for the factory service manual, but it's the first time I've ever looked at such specs so IDK what normal is for motors!Are you going to reuse the cam and lifters?
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5 minutes ago, Frantz said:
Spring tester I had picked up awhile back
No stop, just a pressure gauge. Given the range it's perhaps not precise enough for the job.. and time to buy another tool!
Specs come for the factory service manual, but it's the first time I've ever looked at such specs so IDK what normal is for motors!You can make a stop by simply cutting a 5/16" bolt to the correct length, then place it in the tester next to the spring.
Even though the 54-62 pressure may be correct, it is still ludicrously low and using higher pressure would be better overall.
If you need new springs, Egge Machine has them for $1.56 each.
https://egge.com/part/sbi-1305-160-1120/
Here is Egge's spring pressure.
75@1.780 -
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1 hour ago, Frantz said:
The service manual says to check the springs at 1.821" which is awful precise... but then allows a 10% loss for serviceability and a range of 54-62# =-D
I have one of the vice pressure testers... do I just get close to 1.821" and see if I'm in spec? Again, just a service rebuild, not going for major performance gains.Post a photo of the tester.
All the spring testers I have seen and used have a stop on them. If yours has a stop, you just set the clearance to 1.821 using the stop. You can do this with vernier calipers. You can also just use a tape measure to get it reasonable close, but it needs to be within around .020".
54 - 62 lbs is ludicrously low, and if that is the correct spec, and your springs are within that range, I would still install shims under them. The shims are cheap.
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I does not matter what it would cost to make it or what a retailer would ask for it.
Put it on Ebay and I bet you will not get an offer over $500.00. The reality is that people are not going to beat your friends door down to buy it, plus it is highly unlikely that someone will drive more than around 4 hours each way to buy it, and it would cost a boat load of money for someone to have it shipped to them.
How to manage HIGH COMPRESSION ?
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by barnett468 (see edit history)
If the connections were clean and only lightly tightened, they would easily have a good enough connection, in which case the culprit would have been that one or both of the cables were too small or an original cable with a weak connection on the end fitting was used.