Jim Kelsey

One set of front/rear fenders and splash shields for a 1926-27 Ford Model T Sedan or Touring. The metal is very solid, but there are several dents and some cracks. A good body man can get them back into shape. Brand new front fenders are available for $550 a piece through Rootlieb and new replacement rear fenders are not available - period. I need to get these sold asap. Make me an offer I can't refuse. Local pick-up only - Tacoma area Inquiries can be sent to jlkelsey1992@msn.com

Thank you for all of the comments about the year and how to find the serial number. I have passed them on to the owner.

1917 Studebaker Big 7 Touring for sale. The car has not been driven in years, but the engine does run. It has new tires and an extra transaxle. Asking $9600 I am listing this for a friend - please do not message me. Contact Jack Kirmse at 782-325-3302 or jack_kirmse@yahoo.com

Car sold.

Making it into a speedster is what another antique car owner told me to do with it; however, I really wanted to restore it to the original manufacturer's specs. Lack of space at home and proper machinery has put a kabosh on it. Overland manufactured just over 12,000 of the 85-6 and only a handful are roadsters. Unlike the Model T Ford, other than the frame, most everything else is different between the tourings (the more common version) and the roadster. Overland made the model 85 for two years, 1917-18, and the four cylinder version (85-4) is the one that most collectors have.

That transmission cover is from a 1918/19 Model T Ford. It just happened to show up for the photo shoot - LOL. Making the assumption that you aren't familiar with the Overlands (and I am far from an expert), this car has a transaxle. The gears look fine in this one, but I also have an extra with a broken shifting fork.

This vehicle was given to me when my father passed in 2008. He bought it in 1972 in the condition seen and I have been told that it was originally used in the mines of Nevada as an ore cart. The car was complete with the exception of rear fenders and a body. I purchased parts over the next several years, which I will list below. I began restoring it piece by piece from 2016-early 2020 as I could afford it. When 2020 hit, I lost the space to store it, access to the machinery to work on it, and the inclination to continue restoring it. Currently, it is being stored in a portable garage. I would like it to go to a home where someone can bring it back either as a roadster, touring or a period speedster. The car comes with a complete chassis and engine (which turns over by hand easily), two transaxles, two radiators, three sets of front and rear fenders, the front body half of a touring, two cowls (one for the roadster and one for the touring), the hood, splash shields, running boards, two rear shells of some type of Overland, a top with the bows, doors, two complete differentials and rear floating axles, five "new" old stock tires - never been used, two starters, two generators, two steering columns, a new head gasket, extra electrical box and conduit, bearings, gauges for the dash, two spare tire carriers, many hubcaps and paperwork associated with the car (which includes an original 1917 owner's manual and parts book). This car does not have a title - at least not one my mom could find when she gave it to me. To the interested party, I have plenty of photographs and blueprints via the WOKR that I am happy to share if you want them. Photographs included are when I moved it from eastern Washington, the place that I had it stored and was working on it, and where it is currently stored. Many of the restored parts are in boxes, which you will see pictured. The following restoration work has been done: Headlights chromed and primered Cone Clutch relined Starter rebuilt Generator rebuilt Water pump rebuilt One radiator repaired One steering column restored (the one off the car) Front end restored, including newly machined spring perch bolts and bushings Front springs sandblasted and restored Front axle powdercoated New battery box made Restoration on the front wheels was started Some of the wheel rims have been sandblasted New seals and bushings put on front engine cover. Gear shift quadrant restored and repainted Intake/exhaust manifold magnafluxed and sandblasted Inquiries can be sent to jlkelsey1992@msn.com

I'm currently working on the restoration of my late father's 1917 Overland 85-6 and would like to tap into the experience on this forum on how the best restore the wooden spokes. This is the first time for me going this deep into an automobile restoration, so I am in brand new territory. I'm currently working on the front end so the picture gives you a view of the first wheel that I have been cleaning up. The spokes are very tight and look to be in very good shape. There are few hairline cracks along the grains, but otherwise everything looks good. The spokes rim and hub were originally painted a cream color, which is most likely the color I will choose when it comes time to paint everything. What would be the best preparation for the spokes for paint? Have any of you tried the clear epoxy sealer sold by Smith? It was recommended to me by a local fellow but I'm a little bit leery about turning the wood into a plastic. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

Greetings: I am in the process of restoring my late father's 1917 Overland Model 85-6. Before I try and make the bushings to the spring shackles, I thought I would post on this form to see if there was anything like this available. The OD is 5/8", the ID is 1/2", and the length is 1 5/8". Thanks. Jim Kelsey