Jubilee
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Posts posted by Jubilee
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Sounds like you have an all rubber component (valve, check valve, o ring) that’s shrinking and failing as it gets hot. Hard to believe in this day and age.
Use to see same problem in hydrovac assist on K model IHC trucks in fifties-sixties.
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I have two vehicles I want to paint while I’m still able to lift and hold a full pot gun steady.
I want to do one this spring/summer which means I may have to hire some yard work out. This is a desperate move for a skinflint like me.-
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For grins I ran that 1915 6 ton KisselKar truck pictured above and priced at $4350 through the inflation calculator.
Over $132,000 in today’s dollars.
Good Heavens!
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10 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
The grittys, as you call them, will be imbedded in the bronze and wear the pin much faster. That is why they should be reamed.
I disagree. If properly lubed, ( regularly lubed with weight off spindle) there should never be any metal to metal contact. Also, I always use a constant solvent flood when reaming with hones.
Reamer is best, but not always available.
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I’ve used a brake cylinder hone flushed with solvent when I didn’t have correct reamer a few times..
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I had 5 or 6 mostly unused ones found in my brothers things when he passed.
Had a wooden box full of hitch balls.
He was in his nineties.
One of my great grandsons wanted some to weld on top of steel gate in his driveway, and that’s where the odd size is now.They’re out there.
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I put thousands of miles on both routes before the interstate. Today I enjoy an occasional drive on ‘old thirty’ especially across Wyoming, Nebraska, Idaho for a trip down memory lane.
Any trip on 66 just reminds me of heat and dust.
Of course if you’re driving an antique, you don’t have to be reminded of no power steering, no ac, questionable heat, low power, questionable downgrade braking, no wipers on the upgrades, continuously working radio, and etc.etc.
Still, they’re enjoyable memories except for the incredibly narrow, cement, curbed parts, and the narrow bridges, of both routes that are long gone.
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For me, that would be a fiberglass repair. Looks like plenty room inside for fiberglass.
I’d make a locating plate attached to part with coupling nuts and bolts to allow working behind plate and hold broken part in place.
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I just solved a power window problem by taking the other door panel
off, measuring and learning how mechanism is supposed to work
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1959 was THE year in my opinion.
I’ve always been impressed by excess. Automotively speaking.
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I think everyone should have at least one open vehicle. I had a fifty Ford convertible for about 25 years.
I bought a CJ5 Jeep about 50 years ago which is a canvas top, bikini top, or no top and finally sold the Ford because I was always driving the Jeep.Still have the Jeep, still fun.
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I might add on the Kansas turnpike the 80 mph limit was for ALL vehicles. Anything that paid a toll.
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In 1956, the speed limit on the Kansas turnpike was 80 mph
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Those prices seem pretty high for the time. You could buy a pretty good used car for some of those prices.
My Dad had a truck and tractor repair shop (and trucking business) from right after WWll until the mid sixties. Good car engine overhaul never would run over
$100. I’d say most were $60-$80. Now, if you had a hole in the block with a rod sticking through it, then you might get close to Sears prices depending what the junkyard had.
II think the top mechanics were getting $1.00- $1-25/hr. No overtime, but they could use a Chilton’s flat rate on many jobs. This was early-middle fifties. New hires started @ .75 / hr I think. I don’t know, I never got paid any money, but I did get free gas, tires, and repairs.
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If it ever comes up to measure WB on a tandem axle vehicle ( think Mercedes Benz G4), you measure from center of front axle to center point between rear axles.
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A Barrs Leak block seal type treatment will usually seal up leak sometimes for four days, sometimes forever.
A leak down test ( cheap Harbor Freight kit) might pinpoint leak area and give you an idea of engine condition overall. -
I might add, the best improvement I’ve found in old headlight systems, is cataract surgery. Especially in picking up wildlife eye reflections.
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I have a headlight adjuster for the 3 nub 4 light headlight system. Had it for years. Used mostly on Peterbilt or Kenworth trucks.
It has two levels in it. Up and down and side to side. You hold it against the 3 nubs and adjust to level. Very good starting point. Usually set the driver’s side low beam in about 1/8+/- bubble and the others on level.
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Floor shift- there’s always the old forked board on shift lever to dash trick.
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For me, if it has a direct drive fan, it gets a 180. Fan clutch gets a 160. I like a direct drive fan on anything that goes in a parade.
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What always impressed me about the Wright brothers bike shop is that their chief mechanic built a 12 hp aluminum block engine weighing 180 lbs. in about 6 weeks.
He said they made it up as they went along just using a lathe and a drill press.That’s a pretty well rounded bike shop.
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Might be Wheatland, WY. Looks a little larger though.
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On anything with king pins, I always jacked front wheels off ground
before greasing.
For 50 years, in my truck shop, I had a greased ramp built out of rail road track in
the grease pit that would pop the front end of any straight axle vehicle up for
lube.
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I have a sbc in my Willys CJ5 and I have a shut off valve on both the water pump
and intake manifold heater lines. Gate valve on intake and ball valve on water
pump for ease of installation.
I feel two valves helps slow convection heating of heater core.
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55 Buick super, 4bbl 322 dynaflow , poor idling and high HC
in Technical
Posted
Just went through something similar on a 327 Chevy.
problem was 3 fold.
timing mark was off about 6 degrees. (Advanced) remarked at tdc and added degree tape. ( who knows how that got off in the last 60 years. Parts good.)
vacuum advance was frozen. Replaced with new.
vacuum advance was tied to ported vacuum. Tied advance to full vacuum.
Made a different engine out of it. Starts and idles perfectly. No more black smoke.
No sooted plugs.