MarkB2PW

1) Fuel pressure too high. This often happens when people install electric fuel pumps. If the pressure is way too high, it can just blow past the float valve and run over. If the pressure is a little wrong, it can change the float level, leading to a whole bunch of tail chasing because the height setting in the book assumed the original fuel pressure. Response: I put a rebuilt fuel pump(mechanical) from Fusick on less than 10 miles ago. 2) Float valve shot. This one is self explanatory. The fuel cant shut completely off, and it just runs all the time (like a malfunctioning toilet). Response: I rebuilt the carburetor myself less than 20 miles ago. Not to say I didn't miss something. 3) Bad float. Any holes in the float, or any liquid inside changes the buoyancy and reduces the float's ability to shut the liquid off. Since the float level in a carburetor is critical, there is no room for error. The float must have no leaks, period. Response: I rebuilt the carburetor myself less than 20 miles ago. Not to say I didn't miss something. 4) Float level set wrong. The service manual will show how to set it and what the level measurement is. Response: When I rebuilt the carb I was very meticulous about getting this set right, 23/32" I believe. Fuel coming out of the side air filter hole dumping onto the coil. Something is bad. I'll remove it tomorrow maybe.

Thanks Bloo it gives me hope.

No. I pulled the plugs one a time and cranked it for each one. Was that wrong? And would that change the compression numbers I was getting?

I just did a compression test the results look like this: Cylinder 1 83 2 87 3 80 4 83 5 80 6 84 7 83 8 85 I can get it to run, but, when I shut the car off fuel runs out the air horn. Why?

It is a Rochester AA. I bought a kit and rebuilt it. I sent the economizer valve back to a shop in Florida to replace the diaphragm. I would like to try a different carburetor to see if the performance changes. What model Carter is that? And where is the best place fro me to get one? Or is there a modern alternative that would work better? I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I like the comment from Frank, "What's that old saying? 90% of carburetor troubles are ignition...." . I'm not sure the problem is the carburetor, but would like to eliminate it from the equation. After I changed to 12v it did run better. I also replaced the fuel pump with a rebuilt 2 weeks ago, but, when it died on Saturday it felt like it was running out of gas. I could get it to start and run by revving it, but it would not stay running.

I think I'm going to look I think I'm going to look for an alternative to this Rochester side draft two-barrel carburetor

I appreciate all your input and I think I'll be able to resolve the issues using just the 12-volt for the horn and 6 volt reducer for the fuel gauge Looks like I got bigger problems though I'm sitting on the street waiting for AAA to come get the car... I'm pretty sure I got carburetor issues. I'll keep in touch

I assumed that the 12v battery was a stable 12v supply. I'm not an electronics guy so I would not know the difference. It was always a positive ground. 1950 Olds 88. Frank, are you suggesting that I keep a six volt battery in the car also, and just use the reducer to charge the 6v battery. Then using the 6v battery for the horn and gauges. There's plenty of room in the trunk for a second battery. The horn does work on 12v, it just sounds unusual. BTW, the voltage into the fuel gauge is 6 volts from the reducer. The voltage out of the fuel gauge is 3 volts. Is that normal or is the gauge bad? Thanks for the help.

Has anyone used this 12v to 6v reducer before? I did a 12v to 6V conversion on my car and put this in for the horn, fuel and temp gauges. I'm sending 12v to it from the ignition switch and I get 6 volts out of the reducer. But it's not enough to power my horn, temp or fuel gauge even at 20 amps. I can take my old 6v battery and run power direct to the horn and it works, but not with the 6v from the reducer. Any experience with this would help.