Locomobile
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Posts posted by Locomobile
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On 4/6/2021 at 12:22 PM, 60FlatTop said:
started running into them when I was about 11 years old. My mother reading to me as an infant and listening those old liars inspired me the read and buy a lot of books in my lifetime. Lots of shared second, third, and fourth hands stories. Always told in first person.
😀
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On 4/6/2021 at 11:36 AM, CarlLaFong said:
This was the subject of an episode of Myth Busters. They concluded that it is BS, Sugar will not dissolve in gasoline nor will it do any damage other than, maybe, clogging a fuel filter Popular Mechanics also debunked the legend also.
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On 4/6/2021 at 8:55 AM, Hans1 said:
The disolved sugar does indeed "cook" in the internal areas with latent high heat, carb, fuel line, fuel pump.........
Bought a nearly new Ford '57 Taurus from a Junk yard in '63. It had been "suggared".
Would partially run using pepsi bottle with gas slowly poured into carb. Took off carb, soaked it in hot water and other things more volitile. Carb kit, and cleaned fuel pump and drained gas tank.
Got it running and used probably 40 gas line filters to keep stuff from getting to carb, or so I thought.
It became a very reliable second car, until distributor drive gear sheared the cross pin connection.
Gave it to a Michigan, West coast, farmer in exchange for a ride to the bus station to get home.
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8 hours ago, capngrog said:
Just to add to the wording that Locomobile extracted from the rant:
" ...they don't have the intelligence to understand the unstated obvious."
I offer for sale this 1944 Zoopermobile with full description of its condition except for "the unstated obvious". Buyer beware!
Cheers,
Grog
For about ten years I purchased steam related antique things that were oftentimes rare. As a buyer, you don't have time for an extensive back and forth dialogue prior to purchase, someone else will buy the item. Early on with the feedback system, sellers and buyers were very cautious as to how they conducted transactions. The last few years after Ebay altered the feedback ranking, it got really bad with both parties, buyers pulling all sorts of crap on sellers. Buying a good item, returning a bad item for a refund etc. Ebay is simply no good anymore for the buyer and definitely bad for the seller. I heard their seller fees are now 12%? And 3% to PayPal, and they hold the money? Just use Craigslist.
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4 hours ago, 3macboys said:
read between the lines of the obvious reality in the listing, because every little thing has to be spelled out for them
Well, there's likely the problem.
I can tell you from experience, I buy (used to, not anymore) a lot of antique steam related items in ''good used condition'', I would get it and it either needed serious repair or it had obvious damage that was purposely hidden in the pictures. I'm not saying you're guilty of that, but when aspects of an item that would substantially devalue it are clearly missing from the item description and pictures, don't blame the buyer for objecting.
I got so fed up, I don't buy anything off of ebay anymore. The best was a ships clock and all the pictures were taken straight on of the face. It was a real good buy, I received it and the whole case was gone, it was just a face bezel and movement, no case.
Ron
I know I sound like one of those troublesome buyers, I usually wound up eating it because I didn't want to go through the hassle of returning it and I can repair about anything.
Here are a few more for instances:
Stanley fuel automatic housing, someone had opened it up and tried to bore it out for a larger spring, blew the boring bar right through the side of the casting. It was from Australia and didn't want to pay the return shipping of about 70 dollars. Seller hid that in the pictures.
Lunkenheimer steam whistle (about $300) someone had repaired the valve seat with bondo, worked on air, would have never worked with steam, I was able to re-machine the seat.
Those little Neverout sidelamps, I had several of them, they are made from thin brass and fragile, I received one and someone rammed it in small box and it looked like a football, needless to say the lamp was badly damaged, I used it for parts. The font, glass etc.
One was a brass bollard off of an antique boat, someone removed it (stole it) with a hack saw? They sawed right through the base of it on an angle, hid that in the pictures, I brazed it up and repaired.
Penberthy injector "in working condition", parts were missing out of the inside, converging nozzle etc. luckily I had spare parts to fix it.
I had many instances similar to the above, finally I tossed in the towel on Ebay.
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22 minutes ago, Flivverking said:
I just saw a good driving "Plain Jane" Dodge Brothers touring of 1927 in near Identical shape in blue and black with a good top up, intact, but the car maybe 10% crummier dirty overall ,sell in 3 days for $8,000 . asking $9,800.
Yeah, personally I have no idea, but my first instinct was 10-12k. Again, I have no idea what it's worth.
QuotePosting box malfunctioned. Anyways, if it were mine I'd put the value closer to ten k
Any chance he was a U of M fan, that is their colors.
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Oh ok I remembered it as California, but it was Oregon, I'll get it right next time. 😉
Ron
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Looks like trash left from a movie scene of it driving off that cliff.
That was common. When Buster Keaton made ''The General'' the bridge blew up and the train fell in the river, they just left it there until the state of California went after him and got it removed by court order. During the same filming, they also started a brushfire that burned for days. The environment was of little concern back then.
Ron
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Parking aid. Great for changing rear tires too 😁
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Not to be argumentative, but that doesn't look like him, he had a wide head shape. That's probably him in the right front. This pic was taken around 1902-3. The car looks to be a Stanley, Locomobile, grout or Conrad.
The woman in the foreground resembles him, probably a family member.
Here he is in 1915
(looks like he's wearing the same suit 😁)
Ron
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1 hour ago, padgett said:
it fits 3/8 to 13/15.
They claim that, but I'll bet it's more like 5/15" to 25/29ths''. 🙄
Ron
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Forum discussion has to be stimulated. I'm very interested in steam boats and cars. When I went looking for online discussion about steamboats, there was nothing but a few dead forums. I kept checking back every few weeks and there was just an occasional "Where is everyone?" posts. I just started posting there, posting pictures of my project, asking questions that went unanswered etc. Eventually, people started responding and then more threads were started and more people got involved, and today, ten years later, it's still relatively active considering the obscurity of that hobby.
The point is if you're checking in just to read and be entertained, it's your fault there is nothing to read, have to contribute to stimulate conversation and grow content.
As they say at the nudist colony "You gotta be one to see one" or something like that. 😁
Ron
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6 hours ago, Restorer32 said:
We have about a 50% success rate tapping 10-24 threads in 1/4" stainless
Oy.. I would definitely cheat a bit with an oversize tap drill. 75% threads are not always imperative, especially with that material thickness. If you're not already use a good two flute tap with lots of oil. The center web of the two flute is much heavier.
3 hours ago, ojh said:Last week I broke an 8-32 tap on a stainless luggage rack cross member and had to replace the whole thing, I'll have me a set of those extractors!
As I wrote above check with the local Machine shop or weld shop, they will likely have a tap burner. It's a carbon electrode connected to a variac transformer. They set the electrode on the tap and keep cranking the current up until it burns through it. An EDM machine can do it too. Taps are hard as glass and why they are so brittle. Only thing that ever worked as a removal tool for me is a carbide blank, it has to be held in a mill etc, lest it veers off to the side and spoils the piece. Working in machine shops since 1979 I've seen a good number of afternoons (and parts) ruined with a broken tap. It's the last operation and one of the most risky.
Ron
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3 hours ago, 34LaSalleClubSedan said:
Does anyone know where I could buy a tool to remove a broken off tap for a 1/4 inch bolt for water jacket plate cover? The block is cast iron. Thanks, Jim
It depends how it broke, was it working freely or is it bound in the hole?
If it's not bound in the hole a tap removal tool may get it out.
If not..
Call a local tool and die shop, they either have or know of someone with a tap burner. It's a carbon electrode they insert and it will burn it out.
I keep carbide drill blanks in my box that I grind drill points on and they'll disintegrate the tap, messy but it works.
Broken taps are a real pain. Any tap under 3/8-16 with more than two flutes are better fishing sinkers. 1/4-20 and 10-24 are the two worst for fracturing.
Good luck to ya, I know your pain.
Ron
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22 hours ago, Joe in Canada said:
Sorry for making this confusing for some and using a common short form for the word vernier caliper . Here is what I was referring to as a vernier for those that are confused. A picture is worth a thousand words.
I think I will take a nap now and sign out and also having my 12 to finish and getting on the road.
I was just clarifying the difference between the two. It must be a thing where in some locales ''vernier'' is used as a slangular term to name all beam calipers. In my haunts we always referred to them as simply calipers which isn't really accurate, as there are several different types even ''hermaphrodite calipers''🙄
Ron
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2 hours ago, Joe in Canada said:
digital screen on one of the verniers
That's two different things. Vernier is a system of compared scales to determine a sum, no encoders electronics or rack gears and dials. Vernier is the most reliable system ever devised.
Ron
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11 hours ago, OHMJR said:
prefer to use dial calipers and convert into thousands of an inch...
When I make patterns I build 3D models in a solids modeling program and add the shrink and draft. Then generate G-code and machine them out with a ballnose endmill in a CNC machine. It's cheating
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Harbor Freight, Snap on and SK are all comparable? Things must have changed drastically.
-Ron
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3 hours ago, mike6024 said:
All I had to do was ask Google: elevator bolts
Well, there's evidence of skullduggery, so you don't win the big screen TV.
I needed some of these years ago and couldn't figure out the name to order any nor could I find a pic without the name, finally I called the elderly lady at the local fastener place and she knew what they were. Unusual fastener.
They are great for attaching wood to metal, just cut a shallow pocket with a forstener bit and the use the dimple made by the pilot to sock a quarter inch bit through. Strong and flush.
Ron
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6 minutes ago, padgett said:
I'd call them carriage bolts.
Similar, but nope. 😀
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Does anyone know what these are called? I've been using them for years to attach wood to structural steel.
These would real good for attaching a new oak floor in a vintage truck. Or a trailer.
Hint: The answer has it's 'ups and downs'
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Every bicycle, motorcycle and early spoked car wheel with clincher rims I've ever seen used this type of spoke nipple. When lacing one up from scratch it's much easier to use the slots vs the wrench flats and why there are slots in them. Towards the end of the truing job the threaded spoke ends begin protruding into the slots which prevents the use of a standard flat blade screwdriver. The bits in that kit were possibly not intended for that but it looks as though two of them would be perfect for them.
It's really not important, but it's a little surprising this needed to be explained.
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Spoke nipples.
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1 hour ago, CarlLaFong said:
Maybe not for that specific screw. I have to wonder why would a set of drivers, like the one pictured. come with a spoke wrench?? Does it come with a scaling tool so you can clean you own teeth? Those two pronged drivers wouldn't fit a bicycle spoke nipple.
I give up, you win 😁
Sugar in the gas tank.
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Locomobile (see edit history)