32BuickVicky
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Posts posted by 32BuickVicky
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Finally got it going....but it will only stay running with the gas pedal slightly pushed....if I let off to let it idle, it dies.
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Recently redid the entire fuel system including gas tank renew. New fuel pump mounted near tank, new regulator and filter. Carb rebuilt recently but leaking fuel from it when pump turned on. New plugs, new plug wires, new distributor rotor button, new coil and condenser. Getting fire at the right time. Doesn't seem fuel is getting to the plugs. We are in East TN and at our wit's end. Anyone have advice or know of someone in our local area that could help?
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2 minutes ago, tcslr said:
Before you replace needle and seat, make sure the float is properly adjusted. It should be slightly below the elevation of the idle jets - scrib a line in the bowl that reflects the idle jet height.
good rebuild kits have new needle and seat. Mr Blair has them.
Unfortunately, Mr. Blair isn't very reachable these days. Hopefully someone will have another source for rebuild kits.
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So, an update and another question. I took off the entire fuel system, had the tank renu'd, new fuel pump mounted back near the tank, new aeromotive fuel pressure regulator as recommended above (set at about 1.5 psi). Had the Marvel carb bottom sanded down to fit flush and put everything back together. Took a while to get it to idle on it's own but when it does, I'm getting fuel leaking out from the top of the carb around the top gasket. Makes me wonder if the needle and seat are bad. We are going to take the top off the carb when we start it next time and see what happens with the fuel level, float, etc. The carb has been rebuilt. Any place to get replacement needle and seat?
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On 1/15/2019 at 11:34 AM, Robert Engle said:
The crank hole covers are the same for all 32 Buick models. PN .245
I think I have one somewhere in my piles of junk. With a warm day, I'll search for it. It's not in the best condition but is restoreable. I've also got some junk speedometers. They would need a complete rebuild.
I believe Bob's Automobilia has the wiper arms and blades.
Welcome to the 32 Buick Victoria guys. I've been restoring my 32-58 forever. At least, it's going back together now.
Bob Engle
Bob, it's been a while since I checked on this. Any chance you ever found a cover?
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So, after some advice from members, I am redoing the entire fuel system. Sending the tank to the Gas Tank Renu guys to have it redone but tried EVERYTHING to get the straps off.....heat, penetrating oils....nothing worked to get the bolts holding the straps off....it's like the nuts were fused to the bolts.....worked on them for nearly 2 hours before deciding we were going to have to cut the straps. So, I need straps for a '32 Buick Model 86 - otherwise, I'll have to get a fabricator to remake them and the j-hook bolts. If anyone has a set, I'd love to grab them.
Also decided to get the fuel gauge inside working so I'm also looking for the sending unit (pics attached) or a comparable aftermarket alternative.
Plan now is to blow out the existing fuel line and replace the refurb tank. I took off the fuel pump, have ordered a new one that will be mounted right at the tank, took off the crappy fuel pressure regulator and pressure gauge and have ordered the recommended replacements through Summit racing. Also taking apart the carb to clean and stop the leak. All of this should stop our issues. But please let me know if anyone has the sending unit or tank straps.
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2 hours ago, Robert Engle said:
Tank removal is not too difficult. 3 items to deal with, wiring to gas gauge, fuel line, and two bottom straps. Original fuel line was metal going from the gas gauge sending unit to a fitting on the right rear frame rail. a floor jack and block of wood to support the tank as you remove the two bolts holding the straps to the tank. I'm not sure on the 80 series, but you might check under trunk mat to see if there is a plate you can remove to get to the wires and fuel line. If not, just lower the tank enough to get to the lines and wiring. If you plan to continue to use the electric pump, I would suggest moving it to the rear as close to the tank as you can get. They work better as a pressure pump than a suction pump. Make sure you use a high quality electric pump and regulator. Cheap ones are never reliable in performance. With the tank out blow out the line from the fuel pump to the gas tank.
The Marvels work best at about 2psi. They are not too difficult to repair once you understand them. Get in touch with Mario. He has done extensive research on Marvels and setting them up.
Bob Engle
My gas gauge is not functional. If I'm dropping the tank, maybe it's time to address that as well. Any idea on what kind of sending unit I would need to get it functional again?
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2 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
Fuel tank is easy to remove. Make sure it's empty so it's not heavy; there is probably a drain on the bottom of the tank somewhere. Otherwise, use the electric pump to pump it into another container.
Once the tank is empty, remove the straps holding it in place. On older cars like yours, there might be two or three, or maybe even some brackets on the sides. The manual probably has details on how to remove the tank, but it should not be difficult at all. A few fasteners and then lower it out of the chassis with a jack or even by hand if you've got a helper. Easy!
I would say 1-2 PSI would be the most you should have at the carburetor. Does your car still have a mechanical fuel pump? I would try to put it back to stock if possible. If not, the electric pump needs to be regulated properly. I will admit that I ran my 1929 Cadillac on an electric fuel pump for a decade, but it ran right and was properly dialed-in. If you're using one of those disc-type regulators from Pep Boys, throw it in the trash and buy an expensive one from Summit racing. What you want is this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13222
Precise fuel pressure is critical on those Marvel carburetors. It really matters. Plus you can install your gauge at the regulator and have a much better idea of what kind of pressure it's putting out. Fine-tuning here can make a big difference in driveability.
I can't use the mechanical fuel pump because I can't find a push rod replacement. As I understood from Mac Blair, the rods are not only year specific but model specific and finding a rod for mine is impossible.
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53 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:
Start with cleaning the tank. My '35 Lincoln struggled with all kinds of maladies, all of which were ultimately traced back to a gas tank full of trash. Fix that first and see what happens. I suspect that your pick-up is clogging, along with the regulator and filter. If there's rust in the filter that far forward, you can be sure there's A LOT of it in the tank.
Send the tank out to be professionally cleaned and sealed. Trying to do it yourself to save money only means you'll be doing it twice.
With the tank clean, then you can diagnose any other problems (the carb shouldn't be leaking, for instance).
Matt, how hard is tank removal and replacement? I've never attempted that and may need to employ a local mechanic if it's a substantial job. Also, what fuel pressure psi should I be expecting at the Marvel Carb?
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I have an original 32 Buick Model 86 Victoria and I'm having some fuel issues. It died on me 3 times last night....like it choked out and wasn't getting fuel. Below is a diagram of the setup of the fuel system on the car. The tank is original and after sitting for a couple years during COVID, I got some rust in the fuel filter after driving it for 10 miles or so. Changed the filter and it's looked good the last 30 miles or so, but I think there's probably some rust in that old tank. Fuel pump is working as best I can tell when turned on with the switch. The fuel filter is not full of fuel at any time. At idle or under acceleration, the filter just stays mostly empty with a small spurt of fuel being sent in to it and then out toward the pressure gauge and carb. My fuel regulator has to be set on 2 to 2.5 psi in order to generate 1 (ish) psi at the pressure gauge. The Marvel carb is leaking from the lower gasket - recently rebuilt by a local mechanic less than 75 miles ago (older gentleman that knows his 30's autos but unsure how good he is at carb rebuilds).
Questions:1. Should I remove the tank and use one of the Por15 sealing systems to recoat?2. Should my fuel filter be mostly full of fuel and should I put the filter before the regulator to ensure it is filling?3. Should I get a higher quality Fuel Regulator, Pressure gauge or even fuel pump to ensure the system is accurate?4. Isn't there a gentleman who does a lot of the Marvel carb rebuilds that folks have recommended here before?Any other information or suggestions is appreciated.
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Hello everyone....been a while since I posted. I got a bit of a death wobble the other day...nothing terrible .... but it looks like the tie rod ends are going bad - especially on the driver's side. I've not been able to reach Mac Blair yet and the Rare Parts store in CA says they need my current tie rod ends and a 45 day waiting period to manufacture replacements. Any chance someone here may know another place to score a set?
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Anyone with a good condition trunk for a black '32 Model 86?
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I took our '32 Model 86 Victoria out tonight. Strangest thing happened; never experienced this before (of course, this '32 is the first classic car we've ever owned) so I'm hoping to find some answers here. I was traveling around 35-40 mph and hit a small pothole in the road. The steering began shaking left and right. I hesitate to use the word "severe" but it wasn't just a little shimmy. I put some pressure on the wheel trying to stabilize it but found that applying the brake was ultimately what stopped it. I hit a few other bumps and potholes coming back home and it didn't happen again. Wasn't sure if this normal every once in a while or if it represented a bigger problem (tie rod end, etc). Any help would be appreciated. If you have questions to help isolate the issue, let me know and I'll do my best to answer them. As this is our first classic Pre-War car, I'm still learning.
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17 minutes ago, McrouchAkd said:
Backside of clock I have in my possession.
Thank you for the reply. Sending a message to you.
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4 hours ago, Jim Nelson said:
Actually, a packed pump (graphite packed) needs to have a small / slight leak. The leak keeps the shaft lubricated along with the graphite packing. If it does not leak, you WILL WEAR THE SHAFT. It will cut grooves in the shaft as it wears. You continue tightning the nut untill the shaft breaks. A drip pan will contain the leakage. You can just put it back in. Of course, no oil. Fortunately, here in Florida we don’t have to use anti-freeze. Actually, anti-freeze does not transfer heat as well as just water. I use distilled water with “Barrs Leak” which is a water based anti-corrosion with lubricant.. No rust being generated and lubricant for the water pump seal. So we cool our engines better and minimize the ole “to hot”. and need the pusher fan. We still use our pusher fans as needed. I have A/C on my ‘38’ coupe and I DRIVE my Buick. BTW, in my younger life, I sold , modified (cut to get the parameters needed) and fixed pumps from 1/4” up to 6” suction size.
And Jim, I just want to clarify: this drip is happening when the car is not running and when it had cooled down. That is when we should expect a drop like this?
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This has been great info guys. Is there a good resource for me to learn more about the packing nut and coolant flow? I'm new to car engines and maintenance and would like to learn more about how the coolant flow and packing nuts function.
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Thank you as well Crazy. Is there a good resource for me to learn more about the packing nut and coolant flow? This will be a slow process learning all this stuff but I welcome the opportunity.
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Love this forum. Thank you Matt....as always.
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The last 2 times I have parked the 32 Buick, I have come back a day later to find antifreeze under the car. This car is relatively new to us and I am unfortunately rather new to 30s engine to begin with. I did isolate an antifreeze drip coming from this connection between the generator and the oil temperature regulator (see attached picture).
Can anyone tell me what may be causing this and how to address it? Also, can anyone tell me how to know the proper level of antifreeze to have in the radiator. With the cap off and the car cool, I can't see any fluid.....just a sloped area leading down into the radiator. Appreciate all the knowledge on this board.
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Hey guys,
I'm having a speedo issue that I believe is cable related. The speedometer does register and move but it's not accurate. It seems to bounce around a little bit and does increase as the car speed increases but never matches the true speed. Also, there is a clicking in the cable with acceleration that gets a little less noisy as you speed up. I believe the cable/line is likely bent inside the sheath. I put some grease down in the cable and it did make it quiet again but the speed still doesn't register.
Wondering if anyone has had this issue and if you recommend full replacement of the cable or if anyone has attempted to restraighten one. Would love to hear thoughts.
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Ok. Do you all recommend a rebuild with the cork float or a plastic float?
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Finally finished up what I could do on the 32 and gave it to my wife for her birthday. She was thrilled of course.
I still have an issue or two to work out. I'm losing some power going up hill and have some occasional popping when I let off the gas. Pretty sure the carb has never been rebuilt. Probably time. I'm in the East Tennessee area. Can anyone recommend someone in the area that rebuilds 32 Marvels?
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Robert, you don't happen to have another Sandoz or the parts to assemble one do you?
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I have a couple grill badges I'd like to attach to a 32 Buick. Doesn't look like there is a lot of room between the grill and radiator.
Has anyone here attached a grill badge to a 32? Any tips or tricks?
Difficulty starting 32 Buick Model 86.
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Adjusted the idle screw but made no difference. We have a quality fuel pressure guage on it and its set at 1psi.
I think we are going to check the values next. Disconnecting 6 of the spark wires individually makes an obvious difference in idle....2 of them (4 and 7) seems to make no difference.