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george gohlike

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Posts posted by george gohlike

  1. Before grinding and restamping, be mindful not to remove too much. Usa file to take the minimum material off that surface because it is a locating surface for that part and if you are not mindful of this, it will be a problem when or if it ever requires babbit repair .One of the first things I look for before I start the rebabbiting is this feature. I will need to compensate my rod machine for each part .(extra time to correct)

    oh well if so I have a Jolly Rodger candy (watermelon) wipe the tears away and “damn the torpedos”.

  2. On 2/20/2018 at 9:27 PM, sligermachine said:

     I bought out a machine shop in Fresno 12 or 9 years ago and think I bought a engine line boring set it is buried  in a lot of hydraulic supply stuff I got the same day took days to move all the stuff and have never really looked at it yet . I think that is the problem with a emergency repair job shop never slows down enough to look at all the little stuff that gets shoved in storage ''C  TRAIN '' . cross that with a Foundry set and we could rebabbit a couple of motors pretty easy --kyle 

     

    On 2/22/2018 at 8:14 AM, Dandy Dave said:

    I have an electric one and it is in Virginia at the moment. I'm in New York right now taking care of loose ends so can't even get a photo of it. Even with that type of tool .015 (about 1/64 of an inch.) is a mile and a half in machine shop talk and too much to grind out this way. If the .015 is on one side then the crank may have to be turned as much as .030 or .040 to be usable. Yes, Best to mic your spare crank and have that either turned or polished as needed. You have something that has gone though the engine and every oil galley, line and even the oil pump should be cleaned. Even a piece of dirt under the relief valve in the oil pump can lead to bigger problems. Also keep in mind that if either crank has already been turned your bearings may not work as they are. You will need to know if they are standard or .010, .020, or even as much as .040 under. Depends on what was done when the engine was rebuilt. Tolerances should be about .0015 to.003 on the bearings. Dandy Dave!   

    Hi Larry I have done several Types of rods / mains  cast and resized rods and semi finished mains. George.

  3. 5 hours ago, edinmass said:

    To quote a job like that is not reasonable. Generally there is a ballpark for rods and mains, unless there is an unusual problem. Unless you have the correct machines and knowledge on making inserts and shells I would not recommend you try it. And trusting another shop to do it for you is not a reasonable proposition. We made main shells for a 1910 Pope Hartford and the research and time were very extensive, and we were set up to do it. Are you sure your not biting off more than you can chew? A big six Loco is NOT a simple machine........and its very rare and impossible to replace broken or damaged rods and crank case, I would expect making shells for the mains, babbitting mains and rods, and grinding the crank and line boring that machine could run 10K fast.........and thats if you know what you are doing. We would only take on that job if we did the ENTIRE engine. Theres a thousand things to go wrong, and people today point fingers and make bad decisions that can lead to bearing failure not related to your work, so simply its not worth doing that job without doing the entire motor. Ed

    Hi no doubt could I talk you 6513008785

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