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TP32

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Posts posted by TP32

    1932 Buick valve lash adjustment

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    Thanks Bob but I thought.008 was a bit tight especially the exhaust valve so I set them all at .009 hot even though the manual calls for .008. The cylinder head does have hardened valve seats and I run non ethanol fuel but I was concerned about the valves being pounded in the seats with .008 thou lash.

    Thanks.  Tony P

    1931 Buick-87 oil pressure drops to 5psi as rpms increase

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    I had the same problem with my 32 ser. 60 exactly. I took the oil pan off and checked the oil pump. The piston check that controls the bypass was wore and gouged A new one was made in the lathe and made .001 “ larger on the OD to compensate for internal wear . A small washer was installed behind the piston spring . After a long run on a hot dat the oil pressure runs at 35/38 PSI at 45/50 MPH and 10/15 at idle  I don’t know if this will help anyone but that cured mine TP32 

    • Like 2

    1931 Buick-87 oil pressure drops to 5psi as rpms increase

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    I had had exactly the SAME problem with my 32 ser. 60 Turns out the little bypass piston in the oil pump was wore and gouged. I made a new piston in the lathe and increased the OD by .001” . Also installed a small flat washer behind the spring . That fixed the problem and increased the oil pressure to 35/38 PSI even on a hot day and 10/15 at idle. Hope this helps for you.   Tony

    • Like 2

    Hi again

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    Hi 

    now that the oil pressure problem has bee solved I would like to solve thr thermostat problem by buying a new or rebuilt one if possible 

    I have one now but it doesn't work .I would like to have the shutters operating properly.They are bolted in the open position now.Any ideas out there?

    Thanks.    T P

    Hi again

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

    You don't.  And I understand what C Carl is saying. If your car is only run in warm/hot weather in a warm climate the thinner oil is not needed. If you only run it a few hundred miles a year, almost ANY oil is better than what was available in 1932.  

     

      In post b# 24 you said engine temp was 250? Really or is that a typo?

    Should be 140-150.  Thanks. T P

    • Like 1

    Hi again

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    Hi 

    Can someone explain why I need a multi grade oil? I only drive the car in summer which means it's always starting and running on the 30 or 40 weight oil as the 5 -10 or 15 weight is only required for cold weather starting. So if we don't drive in winter or even start the engine then why do we need a multi grade oil?

    Thanks.   Tony

    Hi again

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    Hello again

    I installed the new poppet I made and also a 1/8" washer was installed behind the relief spring in the oil pump.I put straight 10 oil in the engine to help flush the system after leaking coolant in the oil pan. With straight 10 oil the oil pressure went up to 32 psi at 2000 rpm and 25 psi at idle. Drained the 10 oil while hot and put straight 40 in the engine The oil pressure went up to 40 psi at 2000 rpm and 30 at  idle. I don't know if the new poppet made the difference or the 1/8 washer behind the relief spring or a combination of both.Both these tests were done with the engine at 250 degrees operating temperature.So the next step is to take it out on the road and check for pressure drop.I also do agree with members in some previous blogs that the 40 weight oil is too heavy so for next touring season a straight 30 weight oil will be tried.

    Thanks for all the valuable info.    TP

    • Like 2
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