cxgvd
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Posts posted by cxgvd
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Thanks Jeff; Great photos. Another interesting anomaly the Cadillac I visited before Christmas had a front hood without louvers and louvers are the norm.
Regards, Gary
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I am ready to repaint some chassis parts during my latest restoration and I forget how long to wait for the epoxy primer to harden before it is safe to top coat. Conversely, how many hours can I wait and top coat without re-sanding?
Thanks, Gary
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Interesting find while performing what my friend calls Forensic restoration. My steering box in the photo shows definite signs of green paint which is the body colour. I need to check with someone who has an original Cadillac. It takes the same effort to paint a part the wrong colour as the right one. I'd rather paint the steering box Primrose, I feel it would look better, however the step plate hangers are painted yellow where they meet the frame and green below that.
Regards, Gary
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Beautiful, thank you very much, a large weight from my shoulders. Anything I can do to help and I sent you a PM. For the benefit of other readers interested in early history, Cadillac touring cars, Model F, had two body suppliers, Pontiac and DBW ( Detroit Body or Buggy Works). My car carries a Pontiac Body and uses these one piece hinges. 1905 Cadillacs are the first to use side doors, before then they had rear entrance tonneaus. The first four cylinder Cadillac was introduced also, Model D.
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Emtee; Yes the loan of the parts for duplicating was/is offered. I thought I would ask if any would be available used. Restoration Supply in California has repro hinges available though a different and plainer style. Also, the one piece hinge is 10" long and I wonder if shrinkage would be an issue with new castings.
Thanks, Gary
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This is the paint I use to brush on a wooden body and the associated metal parts. Antique paints are obsolete. go modern. I use the old time techniques, drying time, brushes et all, but with modern epoxy primers, polyester filler and not alkyd enamel but urethane alkyd. My local Dulux store even matches the colour of the parts I give him. The old coach or wagon painters would have been thrilled to use the modern products we have today.
Best of luck with your project, Gary
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First piece of the Cadillac is restored, the steering rim repainted and the solid brass, steering spider polished, including the other " nut holding the wheel." Some say the car could have been driven in the condition as found, however I bought the car, and I like new, bright and shiny. My expression is I don't have to have the best car at the event but I don't want the worst either.
Regards, Gary
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Friday afternoon I travelled a few hours by car to spend some quality time with this deteriorated original 1905 Cadillac Model F. I am seeking the door hinges as shown in the photos. Hopefully someone will recognize the ornate brass castings as ones they have hanging on a nail in their shed and will contact me and let me purchase them. We live in hope.
Regards, Gary
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For your information, the mechanic who made my replacement spring bent the sharp bends at the ends of the springs cold, and I run straight 30W in my antique engines.
Regards, Gary
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Witmer Coach supplied the wooden top bows for my 1915 McLaughlin touring car and they were perfect. I need wheels for my newest project and they will come for Witmer. Thanks, Gary
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Terry: I had the same spring failure in my 1915 McLaughlin and had a local mechanic/restoration shop fabricate a replacement. The shop thought the spring was silly and couldn't understand the rational or purpose of the spring connector. Modern engines have a solid connection between the drive and the oil pump, they run at more speed and oil pressure. The shop made me a solid tube with correct drives at both ends to do away with the spring. I did not use it, however, if the replacement spring fails again...
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Mark: You must be aware, and for others, the AACA Snappers Brass and Gas touring region and the HCCA host many joint events. Two which spring to mind straight away are the Lansing to Dearborn Endurance Run and the Hershey Hangover. Many folks are members of both organizations anyway and if not, we are known to each other. Others which are nonaffiliated are the FARTS and the Red Rock touring and many more, they are still members of either the AACA or HCCA.
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When the leaf springs are separated rub the surfaces with paraffin wax. Gary
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A friend told his wife that this car is the ultimate antique car. The wife responded; you said that last time.
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Same for me, as Dandy Dave says, for a 1915 Buick. McLaughlin. Gary
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Removing the body of the Cadillac, shown in the photos are the dashboard and cooling system. I believe the piece of wood for the dash is made from cherry and is original to the car. Cadillac literature declares a person can remove the body without upsetting any of the mechanical parts, I was skeptical, however, that is the fact, Jack.
Regards, Gary
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AACA; to attend the Vintage tour and the Snapper;s Brass and Gas touring region events. A local car club, which I have been a member of for 35 years. I discontinued the HCCA after thirty years because the management replaced the long time Editor of the monthly magazine.
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Before and after photos, with and without headlamps. With winter approaching I am working in the yard with a bit of time with the Cadillac. Today I removed the headlamps and incorrect acetylene generator to store them in the house, out of the way. My local paint shop colour matched the Primrose paint to refinish the chassis and the local bearing house provided me with new front wheel bearing and seals. Peter has ordered the proper ignition parts for me.
Regards, Gary
BTW, all the lamps are optional and not supplied by Cadillac, I can reinstall the lamps I have, shop for different headlamps, or omit them completely?
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Seems like a good fit for you and the Packard. I spoke with you a few years ago at the Gilmore's prewar days show where you were showing your 120, I had recently bought a '39 Century and was comparing it to Packard. Best of luck, Gary
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Thanks, Erica. Pete on the left and I watching 9HP make smoke. A red letter day. Gary
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O.C. lives again. Saturday Erica and Peter arrived at our garage for the first start of the mighty giants engine while in my care. It wasn't easy, lots of cranking, swapped my home-made ignition parts for proper parts Pete brought and installed. She ran about ten minutes, serious smoke filled the garage and slowly cleared, engine seemed to smooth out as time went on, coolant circulated and worked as expected and all is well with the world. Learned about our Cadillac. I wrote a long list of items which need attention, mostly short repairs, however, we think the muffler is clogged and will be lengthy rebuild.
Sorry, no photos. Gary
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You are correct concerning the wheels, they have been modified with a 1/2" steel spacer ring welded to clincher rims and accept 30X31/2" tires. According to the info I received from the serial number 6502 my car is a Model F lan, ABB axles, 10/41 gear ratio, Imp wheels, Fisk 30X31/2", Pontiac body in green, 29676?, 05570?, 7/1 delivered to Hyslop Brothers, Toronto, On.
This car was restored in the 1950's or early '60's by a well known early car guy Roger Belfrey in the Niagara area.
Regards, Gary
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Thanks for typing the lengthy list, Peter McIntyre is helping me rejuvenate the Cadillac. I am not in a rush and am carefully going through the parts of the car. I am astounded how dirty and greasy the chassis is, mostly spend my time cleaning and lubricating.
To address your recommendations in order, my fuel tap is now free and does not leak, I have a gallon of fresh gas in it on the bench. A local restoration shop, Classic Coachworks, fabricated a new fuel and water tanks before the car went into the museum. He got it running and driveable at the same time, as well as adding the headlamps and generator.
The engine rotates with good compression, quietly. I've oiled every part I can reach through the top cover, the valves open and close as expected.
I've spun the oiler by hand until the drip occurs in the window. Good idea to flush the oil lines, never occurred to me, I will.
I have the Cadillac on axle stands, both at the frame and under the axles. The rear wheels move as expected, quiet and smoothly. I've had the chain off, cleaned and re lubed it.
My front wheel bearings are modern tapered roller bearings, SKF 30305 inner and 32304 outer. Monday, I go to my bearing supply to ask if they are current and replaceable.
I spoke with a wheel guy at Hershey and will someday replace the wood, but they are tight and, I think, roadworthy, 30X31/2" clinchers. Bought new tubes and tires from Coker.
I joined the Early Cadillac Group and have the owner's manual and saved some other files, some of them are yours, I believe.
Thanks Jeff
A few questions I am missing the horizontal rod to connect to the mixer's tickler. I would appreciate a photo of the connection so I can fabricate a new rod. I have a tap for the compression release and should buy the correct reproduction one.
Regards, Gary
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Problem solving to hopefully start the engine and get a road test before November turns gloomy. The tap which stops the flow of fuel to the mixer was seized. I previously drained a gallon, more or less, of ten year old gas from the tank and the fuel left a residue about 1/8th inch thick of a heavy mud like substance. The tank is out of the car and filled with vinegar and sharp broken tiles to loosen the goo. The tap has been freed up using vinegar. In the photos the gas tank is a gray box, I give it a hearty shake often.
Regards, Gary
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1905 Cadillac Model F
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
My 1913 Buick model 31 has a wooden body, too, and when I refinished the paint many years ago the inside of the doors had a heavy textured mesh firmly attached to the inside.