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cxgvd

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Posts posted by cxgvd

  1. I am restoring a 1915 Buick with 25' Baker rims.  What is the current thinking on refinishing: paint, likely the cheapest but also tends to scuff off, powder coat, tougher or plating likely  the most durable.  What is the plating, zinc or cadmium?  In all cases the colour will be silver with matching bolts and rim locks.

    Regards, Gary

  2. Sorry, yes, I did clean my existing pump and used fine sandpaper on a flat surface to polish the bottom casting until it was shiny all around.  My car is very nice but it has driven forty miles in the past ten years so I am recommissioning it by changing all of the fluids, belts and hoses before I start the engine and hopefully start driving the car.  Gary

  3. All right, oil pan falling off was hyperbole.  I had to bang on it too.  Also cleaned the original 34 5/16 nc cap screws and changed the lock washers to new ones.  Cleaned the oil pump and flattened the bottom plate, then using my half inch drill turned the pump until oil was visible at the top of the rocker shaft.  I used a can of sea foam in the new 10 30W oil to help clean the passages.  Unfortunately now I see signs of oil leaking from the rear main seal...  Gary 

  4. Just completed the same job on my '39 Century.  Placed jack stands only in the front where the suspension bolts to the crossmember.  Removed all the bolts and the pan dropped off.  No need to loosen any steering parts.  Cleaned and painted the pan.  Tied on the gasket through many holes with fine thread, silicone sealer, two long studs to place the pan until the bolts went in.  Put all the bolts in before I tightened it.  Easy.  I had number one rod near TDC.  Good luck, Gary

    • Like 4
  5. In the past 24 hours no one has bothered to Identified the blue 1905 Buick model C pictured above by Keith.  A two cylinder engine , built by Walter Marr and David Dunbar Buick, before General Motors.  It happens to be the fifth oldest Buick known to exist, he and his family drove it on the recent Brass in Berks County tour this spring as well as sixty miles to this open house.  Well done to the owner.  Gary

    • Like 5
  6. I have removed my '39 320 oil pan and scraped a quarter inch of hard debris out of the bottom.  Next I removed the oil pump and cleaned it too.  The body part number is 1287329, which is not what I was expecting.the number is not in my limited books.  I did a brief check on the interweb, anyone recognize it?  Thanks, Gary.

  7. I plan to remove and clean a '39 Century oil pan and it is recommended to get a later model oil pump because of more capacity.  Seems like a good idea.  But I have checked the usual places such as Bob's, Classic and eBay so where does one find such an oil pump? Thanks, Gary

  8. Leave the young folks alone, they have enough to consider without listing the items.  Car culture is not a big thing for the young as it was for us oldsters.  The AACA seems to be doing alright with the 25 year old rule and no modifieds, resto rods, jumping, lead sleds, hot rods and those groups have their own events and do not need the AACA.  My dad had no interest in autos but I have because I have.  It seems to be obvious if a new person comes to an event he or she should be made to feel welcome whether it be a church group, fundraiser or car show.  Gary

  9. People ask me about parts availability for a hundred year old car often and they do not exist.  Anything you need must be made.  On the other hand the car has been refinished in modern single stage paint, I use 30W detergent oil, unleaded gas and anything else modern I can make use of.

     

    I agree with the descriptions of car ages but might consider the British have the terms Vintage, Edwardian and Veteran for early cars, then certain cars were Milestone and the some big luxury cars are Classics.

     

    Personally I like my '13 Buick.  It is quiet and comfortable cruising 30 miles an hour and when I eventually arrive I am noticed.  It also means I have a large pick up truck and larger trailer.  My answer for the original posted question would be driving, no destination...

     

    Best  regards, Gary

     

  10. My wife and I live in a small village in farming country so we can often drive our 1913 Buick.  Our neighbours own a cottage in a lake resort village less than ten miles from our house so we travel there as well.  Other than that it is HCCA tours as Mark above reported, the Old Car Festival in Dearborn, and this summer we are driving the AACA Vintage Tour in Pa.

     

    Last fall I bought a '39 Century which is for longer drives and pre war tours.  Been so cold and wet this spring around here nothing is moving yet.  Regards, Gary

    • Like 1
  11. I concur.  I am Canadian and have sold cars to Americans.  Get the forms ahead of time from the Gov. website and show up at the border with the vehicle and paperwork. I plan to sell a car built in Flint in the near future and am sure it will end up Stateside.  Around here a person can hardly find a used pickup truck as they are practically all exported to the US because the Canadian dollar is valued so very low.  Everything is on sale today, 30% off.

     

    Regards, Gary

    • Like 4
  12. Are these cars related to Bill Turner of Sylvan Lake?  More than thirty years ago I offered to buy the '31 unrestored and Bill told me no I don't need the money to which his wife, I forget her name, sorry, told him he doesn't need the car either.  If this is the same car well done.  The Turner's also had a '29 isn roadster running and driving.  Gary

  13. An odd request, should seem obvious but isn't to me.  Where does the negative battery cable attach to a 1939 Buick Century.  Mine is very long and too thin (12V) and attached to the starter mounting bolt.  Do not see any empty holes so does the cable attach to the front battery box bolt?  Thanks in advance Gary

  14. To take this side mount conversation further I drive and 1913 Buick with a single side mount.  The tire is a securely fastened to the running board which renders the car a three door although the parking brake and gear lever are also mounted where the door would have been.  The tire also carries my only rear view mirror so the car looks good and is practical.

    I also have a 1915 Buick with a rear spare.  It is poorly supported which has broken the wood around the rear of the body where the side supports are fastened and cracked the frame where the centre support is attached.  I have added a u shaped channel inside the frame which of coarse takes away from the originality but adds rigidity to carry the weight of the spare.

    Sorry to hijack this thread.  Gary

     

  15. Side mounts, I like  and have them.  I notice they also add nearly $2000.00 to the insured and appraised value.  They look great and I do not care if they add weight or are more difficult to work around.  Also not mentioned is the trunk is huge with no tire cluttering up the space.  Dual side mounts are a link to the earlier thirties.  Regards, Gary

    • Like 1
  16. When I was seeking a car like this I looked at a '37 Packard 120.  I turned it down because of the condition of that car.  However I found the seat to be too soft to be comfortable, didn't like the rounded shape of the side windows but really liked looking over the long narrow hood driving down the road.  The engine was fine but not as impressive as the Century which is now at home.  See my post above.  Good luck and happy hunting.  Gary

  17. I was in your position lately and was seeking a pre war driving sedan, always wanted a Packard.  Came across a lovely black '39 Century with side mounts, fender lamps and white walls and fell in love with the 320 Cu In OHV eight. 140 HP, good looks and strong hobby support led me to take ownership of a Buick.  So far so good.  Gary

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