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cxgvd

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Posts posted by cxgvd

  1. Pre '16 cars are the most interesting part of the car collecting, restoring and touring aspect of the hobby.  Why not comprimise and obtain an older restoration.  You would get a lower cost of entry than a professional restoration and you can use the car in the season and take on short projects in the freezin season.  Gary

     

  2. Hello all;  I bought a gallon of 85/90 which says it is compatible with GL3, GL4 and GL5.  I plan to take a bit of it and drop a piece of brass and copper into it and let's see what happens.  Many months until spring.  Regards, Gary

  3. I recently purchased a lovely '39 Century Model 61which was driven just 40 miles in the past ten years.  Over the winter I am going over the chassis and engine and hope to use it as a touring car.  I have drained the gear oil from the rear axle and transmission and plan to add varsol to flush them out before adding new lube.  At last the question is should I buy 90w for both axle and trans or can I use 600w which I have for my older Buick axles and semi-fluid grease which I use in my 1913 and 1915 transmissions?  I would think oils have been covered to death in the forums but never with this nuance.  Thanks, Gary

  4. A Pre '16 car will always be more expensive than the same car as a 1917 due to the club following of the HCCA and Snapper rules.  As way of example may I sight a 1914 MclLaughlin project car recently sold here in Ontario for $15250 Canadian which is about 11,000 to 12,000 US, yesterday a 1920 Buick, larger, better car sold at auction for $3850 US.  The same applies to a pre '05 car is much more expensive than a later car because of the London to Brighton rules.  It is the fact of how the car can be used which dictates it value.  And that is the first time I mentioned value, a car is likely not ever worth what you have to pay, it is the cost to get into the hobby

     

    I concur with John try to buy from the owner directly, better car purchase experience.  Gary 

  5. When I buy a car it is for a reason.  Could be sitting in a grassy park in the summer or rolling down route 66.  I was offered a 1905 car two years ago for $50,000 it was not worth that much to me, or anyone else for that matter, I decided to invest in a granddaughters education instead.  Perhaps I will get a doctor.  That is a good investment?  VL best of luck  Gary

     

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  6. You are correct Dynaflash, A few things are incorrect and the runningboards on the left are missing some rubber.  I am wondering if Streamliners could be retrofitted.  Anyway have until spring to get things shipshape for touring.  Sorry to highjack the thread.  Gary 

  7. For Rod and not to hijack this thread here is a photo as found of the 1915 McLaughlin ( Canadian Buick) my wife and purchased last year for 6,000 to 7,000 USD, hasn't run since 1991.  We know the history from new, the fellow we got it from has had it since 1969 and the original purchaser owned until the second world war began.  Presently receiving a complete rebuild, just replaced four or five pieces of structural wood and repainted the body a correct dark blue.  The fellow told me the engine was rebuilt which I discounted to mean new sparkplugs but was pleasantly surprized to find it was and is excellent.  With what I thought was a good starting price I will have more invested than I could reasonable sell it for and what a lot of work.  Though electric start, HCCA and Snappers car.  Gary

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  8. Sorry to hear the seller isn't being reasonable, I think you could do wonderful things with this car,  A rebuilt magneto is likely $500, the top takes 9 yards of Stayfast at $68 each from LeBaron Bonney plus some assembly required.  Have no idea what the generator is although it looks to be well done.  Wrong intake manifold and is that a model A carby?  Carby is for Rod, that is the correct term isn't it.  The four brass fittings under the spark plugs are the remains of the acetylene starter.  I've not seen a complete setup though I understand a fellow who uses this forum has one intact.  Again best of luck.  Gary

  9. I've seen the car in Michigan and I saw it running in 2008? at the GM Centennial Parade in Flint.  It should make for a good car to drive and restore over time, see my post above.  I know it has issues, perhaps if you explain to the owner how much money the repairs would cost and everyone is reasonable a deal could be struck.  After all how often do you get a chance to obtain a 100 year old auto.  Good hunting.  Gary

     

    BTW.  The exhaust parts are present including the cutout..  the missing parts are just pipes easily obtainable.

  10. Couldn't agree with buying a project Rod.  Many years of bringing a car back to life and with the cost of plating, painting, upholstery and all you will have more in the job than buying an old restoration at a good deal.  Then you can drive the car and perform upgrades in the winter, still expensive, but more of a sure thing.  I am presently restoring a '15 McLaughlin which has not been on the road since 1991.  A good, complete auto which I know the history of since new.  I thought I was buying it cheaply but I will be underwater when it is finished.  On the upside it will all be new and proper. two years to do the job, about half way through.  Gary

  11. I found a picture I took perhaps 15 years ago of a 1913 McLaughlin model 31 and it shows a bench seat in the front, rear mounted spare tire and an all wood body.  This car had electric generator/starter with electric head and side lamps.  I did not look to see how the starter connected to the flywheel, darn.  The car was for sale many years ago so it must be in someone possession,  Not saying it is the one you are looking at, this one was in Michigan.  Gary

  12. Rod;  What are the numbers of the car.  The serial number is stamped on a round aluminum plate on the front left frame near the headlamp mount. engine number is stamped on the engine mount left hand side and body numbers are stamped an many wooden body parts.  Gary

  13. Rod; My model 31, 1913, Flint Buick has a brass radiator painted black and carbide headlamps with oil side lights.  I've seen a model 31 McLaughlin and have a photo I'll try and find but from memory your car looks correct, except I thought it may have had cowl ventilators.  The '12 model has a round radiator emblem and the '13 is a large square, the McLaughlin is diamond shaped.  Couldn't say off hand about the front seat.   Gary

  14. McLaughlins were Canadian. Buick chassis with a McLaughlin produced body.  From the photos it looks good except as noted the wrong magneto ( the original is poor and often upgraded) and a weird fan brace set up.  It is a model 31 with the 201 engine, Buick's most popular car in 1913.  By the way the radiator is brass as shown but should be painted black to match the fenders or should I say wings.  Gary

  15. When my wife and I went looking for a brass era car to be used for touring we meaning I wanted more car than a T, wound up with a Buick, which we still have and have never regretted owning.  The Buick was about 50% more expensive than a Ford back then because the Buick is larger, prettier and more comfortable.  Brass cars are few and when we were looking our choices were some Fords, a REO, and our Buick.  Buy the car you can rather than pining for a Maytag.  Gary

     

    BTW I've had a ride in the original Maytag, fine car and fellow.  If you get a Ford it is the price of entering the world of the HCCA you can always get a different car later.

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