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Too Fuzzy

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  1. I actually found a right rear caliper at my local auto parts store. Unloaded, unbracketed but other wise identical. How did that happened ?? I guess I’ll have to start this job in earnest tomorrow... Larry
  2. The plot thickens.... , it is impossible to remove brake line flare nuts from the fittings. Flare nut wrench is no good, he’ll vice grips are no good. Left side brake line from the 3-way to the hose connection looks like it’s also on borrowed time. Right rear brake caliper is a ball of rust and doubt it’s even functioning. It looks like it’s time to drop the fuel tank, fab new brake lines from the 3-way ( if I can get them off) back to to both rear brakes, new hoses and replace the impossible to find right caliper. Oh, should I do something with that fist size hole in the muffle
  3. Hemi, Do you know if this is standard 3/16 line or metric? Larry
  4. Greetings to all, My last post was May 2017 at which time I was starting to replace hoses on my ‘89 8v early block. Yes, the car sat for a year but in my defense I acquired a John Deere 2240 for the homestead. I spent the winter not restoring but we’ll call refurbishing the tractor. I went back to work on the TC last week and and completed all the belts, hoses, timing belt, water pump, both pan gaskets and all 3 shaft seals. I fabricated a crank sprocket puller. It was ugly but it worked, pulling from all 5 screws. The car started fine and idles good but when I was pulling the car
  5. Thanks guys for the quick response. The car manufactured date shows 3/89 and there is a block-off plate on the block just behind the water pump (good info). I 'll follow the forums historical data for early block part #'s. My enthusiasm is waning for the crank seal. The procedure is what I was hoping for but the tool may be a problem. I'll have to study on that for a while before I start ripping and tearing. In the meantime I'll get some parts on the way. As a matter of prudence I checked all the oil pan bolts- nice and snug. It doesn't mean I don't have a pan leak at the corner of the pa
  6. Greetings to all, Call it a personality disorder but for me one project always leads into another "as long as I'm in here".... While flushing and changing all the hoses I noted a really good oil leak from the front crank area. This oil leak blows back onto the inner axle boot and is slung back to the fire wall in such a way that it I actually thought I had a cracked axle boot. I've twice accomplished an intensified inspection of the boot, finding no issues. So that brings me to replacing the front crank seal and ..... "as long as I'm here", the timing belt. A couple of questions, as long
  7. Reaper1, Thanks for the reply. Yes, HVAC controls work. I pulled the left front tire and crawled around for about an hour or so. I finally found an open nipple on the turbo just left of the air cleaner turbo inlet hose. I pulled the manual out again and found the hose depicted in chapter 11 fig 12 - cleaner assemblies and yes it connects to the turbo.The end of the hose is crusty and dirty. It looks like it hasn't been connected for a long while. Scratch one more problem... Thanks again, Larry
  8. Greetings, I've been previously posting under "Getting another TC on the Road" however thought I should start another thread for my questions for making them searchable to other forum members. To update, I thought the car some what of a dog especially up hill. That and an intermittent starting issue were my two biggest concerns. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator for my start issue. As a matter of precaution I didn't like the "looks" of the IAC sensor and electrical connector, replacing both of them. Damn thing runs like a new car! Really! My gas mileage went from 16.5 to 21.5 and ple
  9. Greetings, I've been previously posting under "Getting another TC on the Road" however thought I should start another thread for my questions for making them searchable to other forum members. To update, I thought the car some what of a dog especially up hill. That and an intermittent starting issue were my two biggest concerns. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator for my start issue. As a matter of precaution I didn't like the "looks" of the IAC sensor and electrical connector, replacing both of them. Damn thing runs like a new car! Really! My gas mileage went from 16.5 to 21.5 and ple
  10. Happy Spring time!(?) gang, I haven't posted for a while. I put the car back in the barn for the winter only to drag it out for the first real snow storm of the year. Lot of nickle and dime repairs over the winter including a lot of electrical issues. The car is becoming a reasonable daily driver but there is a fair bit of repairs left. I still have an intermittent starting issue ( see above) I think a fuel pressure regulator will probably fix it. I still have numerous electrical issues dealing with the radio ( inop ), antenna relay and related circuit and of course the convertible top.
  11. I think your right. I traced one side forward and down to a valve that looks inline with a water line. The tough one to find was going forward through the firewall. That line was very short and very brittle. I guess I'll try to splice under the dash and feed new into the engine compartment. Good thing its 90F with 90% humidity... Thanks, Too Fuzzy
  12. My apologies. Hopefully this will make my inquiry more clear. In he mean time I'll check the vents as described. The broken end is now laying against the reservoir for clarity. Thanks, Too Fuzzy
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