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icerolyuk

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Posts posted by icerolyuk

  1. On 2/16/2021 at 3:34 AM, Bloo said:

    There has to be airspace at the top of a radiator. Old vehicles like that are not sealed systems, so the overflow tube should just go in high somewhere.

     

    The overflow tube should always be open to the top tank, and not arranged like a modern car where coolant has to blow past a pressure cap to get out the overflow tube.

     

    As long as the water covers the top of the tubes so that the core is full you are not losing cooling capacity. The top tank should be mostly air with the engine cold. It is space for the water to expand into when it heats. That is by design.

     

    When the water expands, if it has nowhere to go it will pop the radiator like a balloon.

     

    My Maxwell 25 1920 rad has the overflow pipe high in the neck of the filling tube about 1” lower than the cap  and a rubber  tube running down the side of the rad 

    • Like 1
  2. On 11/6/2020 at 3:02 AM, pwiernicki said:

    Hi friend - I'm actually looking to find out how many mounting holes there are inside the rim. Three of my wheels have 6 mounting holes and one of the wheels has 4. Can you tell me what you have on your car? Our two cars are very similar.

    Hi I’ll get back to you as I’m stuck in Spain at the moment in lockdown and mine is in the north of England so I’ll be a while till I get back and I’m not sure exactly how many holes there are securing the metal rim to the wood. Originally o thought your question was about the tire mounting to the rim with the felloes of which there are five on each of my tires .... I’ll get back to you eventually but won’t be for at least four weeks - cheers for now .... Peter 

  3. Hi again

     

    Attached PDF which was in another section of the AAAC forums which gives the engine serial numbers and useful info on the changes made each year. When I bought mine three years ago it was advertised as 1918 but with this PDF I narrowed it down to late '19 to early '20.

     

    interesting info here: http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/?man=6932

     

    I also have paper re-prints of the 1920 model and the 1923 model  - you just have to keep an eye out on eBay as they do come up from time to time. Having said that hopefully one of the other guys here might be able to help you out.

     

    Best wishes and enjoy the Max

     

     

    Peter

    Maxwell-1.pdf

    • Like 1
  4. Junk17

     

    I used the the document that Howard has provided to great effect to identify my Maxwell which when I bought it had been advertised as a 1918 Maxwell 25 but it didn't seem right so this list gave me the evidence that mine is late 1919 early 1920. 

     

    Hope you are successful with the head torques - something I haven't had to do yet as the engine runs pretty good and I always adopt the principle of "if it ain't broke don't fix it" 

     

    happy Maxing everyone 

     

    Peter 

  5. 7 hours ago, Rick Fraser said:

    I was looking at the note and had a thought,

     

    I think it might say

     

    "3 Sample Cups"

     

    Note the S in Sept looks like the first character after the 3

     

    not sure what that could mean,

    Hi Rick -  yes certainly looks like 3 sample cups. My only observation is that a different pencil - much darker / softer - has been used to write it which suggests written before or after the meeting so it may be unrelated to the meeting? And given that 3 sample cups takes a lot of the space, with the meeting notes squeezed around it, suggests it was written before the meeting. Bit still begs the  question "what cups is this bold note about?" Hope I haven't muddied the waters further but it is intriguing and great to see such an old reference document - 

     

    cheers all and happy motoring 

     

    Peter 

     

    1919 maxwell 25 - London UK

  6. Sorry I forgot the question about paint colour - well here is mine from 12 months ago ... a mix of light grey and dark green - I think the grey is the original on mine 

     

    latest problem with mine is the charge is very week from the dynastart which I'll have to investigate soon - anyway best of luck with the restoration 

     

    peter 

    IMG_7366.JPG

  7. 9 hours ago, junk17 said:

    I'm in the disassembly phase of the restoration of my 1921 Maxwell and need info on transmission removal. Is there some trick? It doesn't slide off a splined shaft like all other transmissions I have known. Also, what would be the engine valve clearances? Are there any "shop" manuals out there for the Maxwell? What was the original engine and transmission colour (mine is grey)? Were there other body colour schemes other than black? Thanks!

     

     

    Hi 

     

    I concur with Howard and he's more of an expert than me - mine is a 1919/ 1920 Maxwell 25 and I employed a mechanic to sort out my cone clutch which had suffered the same problem as Howard's... the three adjustment nuts for the clutch had backed off - and actually had incorrect size springs - and were fouling the housing at the front end of the gearbox ... so, as he suggests , be careful and count the number of turns for the nuts to ensure the same when re-assembling ... I also had problems from previous owners mechanic who had assembled the clutch pedal arm incorrectly. 

     

    It was a hot hot topic a while back:

     

     

    Wishing you every success 

     

    peter

  8. Wow - the invoice is 1906 which makes it 110 :)

     

    it it would be really interesting to find out how many maxwells of any era are still around worldwide - not sure how many in the uk but I've only seen two others here in recent years.

     

    I was thinking of creating a Maxwell Facebook page if anyone else is interested ?

     

     

    Peter

  9. On 5 September 2016 at 4:43 PM, hddennis said:

    Peter, I think you misunderstood my post. I still need the information to convert the parts I just found.

    Thanks,

    Howard Dennis

     

    On 6 September 2016 at 0:28 AM, ulrace said:

    Thanks guys for the info. Drove Max for an hour or so today taking people rides. Does have some shake in front end and also wobble in wood wheels. Taking front end down to check bearings again as play still there and its not in kingpins or tie rod ends. Have some in steering box but not much and can find no adjustment for gear play on the box

    .I have a manual for cars with production numbers after 447204 which is a much later model that shows a worm gear adjustment but also suggests removing pitman arm and steering shaft, rotating 1/4 turn and reassembling to engage fresher section of gear in straight ahead position. What an unusual thing! May try it for gear box play.

    My car is 1916. Does anyone know of steering box adjustment?

    Thanks

    bob

    5 hours ago, hddennis said:

    Thanks Peter, this is a big help. I really appreciate it.

    Could you check your hubs against the photos I've just posted? Notice how my hubs narrow to a smaller size just below the bottom of the hubcap? If my memory is correct this is where I ran into trouble when I tried planning this modernization on paper before. I'm curious if your later Maxwell has the same hub narrowing?

    Howard Dennis

    Maxwell Spindle 1.jpg

    Maxwell Spindle 2.jpg

    Howard

     

    Attached bill of sale which lists the bearing part numbers and they just said "modified the hub to fit bearings" which is not much information but hopefully the bearing numbers are useful - I do remember they had problems balancing one of the wheels after fitting the bearings and they had to mess about a lot before they got it fitted with no wheel wobble - very expensive but very necessary work - wish you best of luck with yours 

     

    regards 

     

    Peter

     

     

    For ulrace....

    Bob

     

    the steering box adjustment I really am not sure - the only manual I could find of that era is the 1917 owners manual which was published November 1916 which is at oldcarbrochures.com and does not have chassis numbers listed - my own car is early 1920 but with a late 1919 engine and I have the 1920 brochure which is good for mine. 

     

    Hope me you get this answered 

     

    regards 

     

    Peter

     

     

    For hddennis... 

     

    Howard I will have to take a look but am now travelling down to the south coast for a week - when we discovered the bearing problem on both front wheels it was decided to ship the wheels up without dissembling the hub from the wheel so as not to disturb the position and therefore the balance of the hub within the wheel i.e. and as far as I'm aware the engineering company did the work with the hubs in place but I'll check when I get back next week

     

    regards

     

    Peter

     

  10. On 5 September 2016 at 4:43 PM, hddennis said:

    Peter, I think you misunderstood my post. I still need the information to convert the parts I just found.

    Thanks,

    Howard Dennis

    Howard

     

    Attached bill of sale which lists the bearing part numbers and they just said "modified the hub to fit bearings" which is not much information but hopefully the bearing numbers are useful - I do remember they had problems balancing one of the wheels after fitting the bearings and they had to mess about a lot before they got it fitted with no wheel wobble - very expensive but very necessary work - wish you best of luck with yours 

     

    regards 

     

    Peter

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg

  11. On 5 September 2016 at 3:25 PM, hddennis said:

    Thanks Peter,  I just picked up a spare set of hubs and spindles so maybe I can convert those and be ready when the current set fails.

     

    Howard Dennis

    Hi Howard 

     

    I'm out and about in town (London) all day and my partner just texted that the postman just delivered a letter from the engineering company so I will get to see it and scan for you when I get back home tonight 

     

    cheers 

     

    peter

  12. On 20 August 2016 at 11:00 AM, icerolyuk said:

    Ok Howard 

     

    I think my mechanic is away but I'll get back to you  as soon as he replies 

     

    cheers for now

     

    peter

    Howard

     

    The engineering company that did the front wheel bearings has just emailed me to say the details have been written down and put in the post to me today so I should have the details for you either tomorrow or the day after.

     

    Also I just saw this advert today of a Max for sale by auction in USA http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/maxwell/25/1870813.html 

     

    Kind regards

     

    Peter

  13. On 16 August 2016 at 5:01 PM, hddennis said:

    Peter, I guess my post got lost?????????  What I tried to ask was did you stay with ball bearings or did you convert to Timken style roller bearings? If the latter could you share the part numbers and what it took to do the conversion, Please?

     

    Howard Dennis

     

    On 16 August 2016 at 5:01 PM, hddennis said:

    Peter, I guess my post got lost?????????  What I tried to ask was did you stay with ball bearings or did you convert to Timken style roller bearings? If the latter could you share the part numbers and what it took to do the conversion, Please?

     

    Howard Dennis

    Hi Howard 

     

    yes converted to roller bearings - I'll have a chat with the mechanic as we actually sent the wheels away to an engineering company to manufacture all the bits needed to make them fit and he has all the info 

     

    I'll get back to you but may take some time 

     

    regards 

     

    peter

  14. I agree with Layden B - I have a 1919 Max 25 tourer in the United Kingdom and had wheel bearings replaced because I could see the cup which they sit in was damaged on both sides (see attached pic) and this had in turn damaged the bearings so in your case I believe you should be able to see if the bearing is worn or damaged and if it is then you will have to replace - I had to have new non standard bearings to fit into a modified specially made cup as I could not get my hands on exact bearings and paid about £600 for the two front ones - having said this I don't think a worn bearing would create as much wheel movement as you describe so suspect it may well be king pin - pump as much heavy grease into the king pin grease nipple as you can and see if that makes any difference- best wishes - Peter

    image.jpeg

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