cuzinpete

Hi...just a quick update...The harness for the ignition module was replaced a few weeks ago...when we tried to start the car, my mechanic tapped on the harness with a screwdriver, and the car started...he replaced the harness...so when I couldn't get the car started again, he checked the module, that was originally replaced last summer, and it was fried...it was covered under warranty, and replaced...car fires up, and engine light is off...so I guess it wasn't a fuel issue after all...thank you to everyone who responded to my question...it's a relief to have some dependability back...well, as much dependability that you can have with a 30 year old car...lol...thanx again.

Thanx for that info!

I had no idea that was the air ride pump...I'm a dummy...lol...I will let my mechanic know everything you guys have told me...this info is invaluable...I'm getting a little piece of mind after stressing out all day over this...thanx so much.

Thanx...that's another great point

Thank you so much...I will definitely look into this

I can definitely hear it...but if I turn the key when the car is cold, I hear the pump run for at least 5 minutes... sometimes it will cut off by then...but once I try and fail to get the engine to start, the pump runs longer when I turn the key, after more failed starting attempts...is that normal? Should it not be running that long? I hope I'm giving enough info...could the pump be bad, or maybe the relay? That's the one thing that hasn't been replaced. Thanx for such a quick response...any advice helps so much. Greg

Hi...car is getting a strong spark, no fuel... ignition module and harness, crank sensor replaced...ran for a day...yesterday mechanic put in a new battery, cleaned up connections, and it started up ..then stalled when I got home...won't start this morning...will just crank, and not catch...running out of things to replace that have been replaced already in the last 2 years...could it be the fuel pump? When I turn the key, you can hear the pump humming...I've had the car in the shop 3 times in the last two weeks and I'm running out of ideas...the car has only 102,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her...I'm desperate...any ideas would be greatly appreciated...thanx Greg

Had this problem with my 1990 Riviera. It was just the vapor hose.

The torch was just for "loosening" things up...and I think my mechanic is a little bit of a pyro...He had to change the bulb in my dome light, and he pulled the torch out...I thought that was a bit extreme..Lol

I want to thank everyone for all the time they took helping me out with the advice and all the info given...Jim Finn came through with a beautiful used control arm, and my mechanic was able to fit her in with a little bit of finesse, and a little fire from the blow torch!! Lol...Everyone here is so amazing and I hope to be back for some more advice on some "elective" work that I will be doing in the future...Thanx alot!!!

I will show this info to my mechanic and definitely go over it with him. Thanx for the pictures and all of the advice.

No offense is taken...my Riviera just hit 99,000 miles and runs fantastic...when he inspected the control arm, he said there was no problem with the frame and the rust was on the surface and normal for a 28 year old car in Buffalo. I've put about $6000 in odds and ends into the car in the 3 years I've owned it, and I really don't mind paying to have work done to it. It's also cheaper than having a $400 or $500 car payment every month. I'd never sell it, so I'm not looking to get anything back on what I've spent on it compared to the bluebook value. I have had the sway bar replaced already, and the ball joint link you sent me sounds like a great idea. Do you know off hand if I need more than just the one set of bushing that go at the end of the bar? Thanx for reading my long winded drivel...lol!!

Besides the control arm, I just want to buy anything else that is likely needed, or could be replaced while it is taken off. Any suggestions would be great. If my mechanic doesn't end up having to use extra parts, it's no big deal. It's better to have more things than I need, than to need something during the job.

Thanx for the info. Are these bolts readily available? Hopefully the used control arm I end up finding comes with bolts, but I'm not betting on it. Would they be sold at a parts store or are they just specific to this model? All the help is greatly appreciated. I want this job to be made as easy as possible for my mechanic.

Hi...the bushing in the picture broke off on my 1990 Riviera. Does anyone know if a new bushing can just be installed to fix it? Or do I need a new lower control arm, which is impossible to find. And is that bar that is sticking out from the red circled part in the picture actually part of the lower control arm, or is it called something else. And if so, can it be replaced independently? Sorry for so many questions but I just want to be able to get the right parts so my mechanic can fix this. Thanx for the help!!

Thanx for replying...I was able to find a cluster...Bit I may be interested in getting a back up...is it tested and in working condition, and how much are you asking...I live in Buffalo for shipping purposes...Thanx alot! Kufie1@aol.com

Sorry about that...my email is kufie1@aol.com

Would like to buy a working instrument cluster for 1990 Buick Riviera...mine is going in and out right now...or if anyone is able to repair or recommend a reputable place that does repairs. Thanx alot!

lol...i had a friend that i was driving with in her car...and she had a picture of her daughter at the end of the steering column by the dash...i told her how nice that was...she then pulled the picture out and the check engine light was on...lol...women are the best...out of sight, out if mind i guess

The light is red with ! in front of it.....the DOOR AJAR light doesnt go on until I put the car in gear...if that helps any.

I just put a new cluster in...everything works great...the break light is on though...is there a possibility that it is emergency break related? I dont think the car has anti-lock breaks...The car was inspected in September and I think it has to be working to pass...but I dont know if the previous owner went to a place that just passed the car anyways...and also the "door ajar" light is lit...the trunk and both doors seem fine...any info on either light would be greatly appreciated...thanx

Just got the call from my mechanic...the car is running...he said that the problem was a broken wire at the tumbler...it took them all morning to find it so its going to cost some extra labor, but at least everything is figured out...I guess it was a big pain to get to because the car wont be ready until Monday morning...they have to put it all back together...the steering wheel had to be taken off and the center console...I'm just glad its done...so it was a new starter, ignition lock cylinder and the wire that was the reason for the car not starting...thanx for all the help from everyone...I'll definitely come back here for advice on my next problem that comes up...and it will...hopefully not soon...lol

UPDATE: Bought a new starter and took it to a mechanic...said I had the wrong one and had to get the Mitsubishi one with the gear reduction that was twice the price...I guess I have the Luxury Edition of the Riviera...oh I feel so fancy...lol...so they put that in and now they had a problem with the security...car would start every 10 minutes or so after the security light went on...they just put a ignition lock cylinder in now but they have to have the key cut at a dealership in the morning...hoping that this will be the fix...if it isnt I was told it could be the module then...125 for the starter with 100 in labor...cylinder is 45 with 30 to cut the key and another 100 labor...and hopefully that is it...or it will be 3 dollars for a gallon of gas and I'm lighting the damn car on fire...lol...thanx for everyone's help.

Tried starting it again when it was a little warmer...nothing changed...and the battery is good...that probably the only definate in this whole scenario...lol...hoping its just the starter...called a local shop and they can take me on monday and let me buy the starter myself...and they quoted the labor as $105...i just have to uope the problem is the starter...im going to do the hammer test tomorrow...hopefully that clears thing up...you can tell im a real technician...lol

I live in Buffalo so the weather isnt too conducive to alot of troubleshooting outside and not in a garage...I would have to check around to see if I had a volt ohm meter...was hoping to try something this weekend as much as I could from suggestions here and then if all else fails, find a shop around here that can look at it on Monday...I dont know if I would have to find a specific shop that works on cars as old as mine...I have done the hammer thing years and years ago and it has worked...lol...I was just wondering that if the car does start after tapping it with the hammer does that mean that the starter is the issue..that would be good to know so then I know exactly what needs to be repaired