STJ

Thanks for all the great and FREE advice, I will be going trough the electrical system from end to end checking cable sizes and clean connections. My car does have a floor starter switch that I will lookin to. I am mostly a vintage motorcycle restorer (early 70s motocross bikes, not a lot of electrics on them) so vintage car seen is a little new to me, thanks for all the help.Sorry I have no idea now to make the pics come out correctly.

A little off the topic, my 26 has no oil filter and I have always been under the impression that one should use non-detergent oils on engines with out filters as in small mowers air compressors and the like. Any thoughts on non-detergent in the old cars or just use multi grade and change it often?

Thanks for all the great replies. How that it has been mentioned the battery cables are newer 12 cables, every thing else is original, from looking at the size of the cable going to the starter which is much larger in diameter than the 12 volt cables I can see why the starting has always been slow. I will update the cables and get a new batt after cleaning everything up.

I have a 1926 Chrysler Model 50. due to family issues and moving it has sat in storage for about 10 years. I am now in a position to get it back running, starting has never been great on the positive ground 6 volt system, so I am considering going to an 8 volt. I have concerns about how the higher voltage will effect things like the lights which are all original, and the starter life, and will the original generator system keep it charged? I have the lineage of this car, and I am it's 3rd titled owner, showing just under 1000 miles. Thanks Jeff

I just tried the even when rotated before uploading they come in upside down, sorry

I am shooting the pics on the iPhone then emailing them to the laptop to post. I will try running them trough the photo storage and rotate them

C Carl is there a place on the forum that I am missing to flip my photos, I hate posting upside down pics. The top is original, no side windows, the bows on the top need some work and new canvas. My father in law is the 3 owner on the car and the milage of about 950 seems to be correct for the wear and tear and from the info he got from the 2nd owner. We got the car with about 750 miles on it, and my FIL bought it just south of Anchorage, AK. and trailered it back to Florida. The first owner lived near Atlanta, Ga. and sent the car to AK. via train and truck in about 28 or 29. The second owner was about 10 when the car arrived in AK. He saw this car running around every summer for a few years then it vanished, he knew nothing about the car at that time. The first owner bought a new car in the early 30s and parked this one in a warehouse he owned. The second found out the car was still In the area, and in 1960, he bought it and just used it as a parade car and a few shows. If the value is in the 5-6 k range that's ok my wife and love the car and just want to offer her mom a fair price for it.

I have a 1926 Chrysler Model 50 Phaeton 4 cylinder I have no idea on how to find a value on something thins old, In just wasn't gifted it from my wife fathers estate. Sorry about then pics I can't find now to rotate them.

complete set off gaskets ordered from Olson

Thanks wil do on the new nuts and washers. The head didn't have any washers on it and the bottom of the nuts are flared out a little. I will call Olsons Gaskets Monday. I looked on their site and they don't list and Chrysler 4 cyl engines. So still looking for gaskets, 1926 Chrysler M 50 4 cyl

I did use chasing tap and die but they were very loose so some one may have done this before me. The head bolts are 7/16-20 and the chart Spinney posted says 27-36 oiled or dry. I went to 25 then to 30 when I resembled. There was a little compression coming around 2 of the center bolts, but stoped after it warmed up. I made tracings of the head gasket to look for a new one. I will get to looking for them on the site you sent later tonight Keiser. Thanks Jeff

I have a 1926 Chrysler Model 50 4 door Phaeton It has sat for about 5 years in a garage, I just got it started today, new plugs and wires. I had to remove the head to get some vales unstuck. In doing so I how have a leaking head gasket, maybe because I am hot sure of the torque for the head bolts, all of which have had the treads on the stud and nut chased. So any heap on torque and source to find engine gaskets would be great. Thanks Jeff

Thanks, rhode island wiring had what I needed

I have a 1926 Chrysler Model 50 4 cylinder. Looking for a source for replacement plug wires, that would be close to OEM.

If anyone is still watching this post I found the engine number behind the horn stamper into the block. number is 94214 something in front of the number looks like an F so F94214.

Agreed I kinda like keeping it all original. I have thought about making some clamp on LED lights and a 12 volt in the back seat, for the few times I get out after dark.

That is the plan Dave, just to enjoy the car. I see that some folks have converted these cars to a 12 volt system. For easer starting and better lights, I guess. My question on that is what does that do to the value of the car? Not that I expect that is is worth much more than a small fortune any way. I read some place that the model number had to do with the top speed of the car, any comments on that? The fastest I have had the car to is 45MPH, and that is a little scary. Not sure I want to try 58.

Well it is defiantly a 4, the replaced master cylinder makes since, as I had no trouble finding parts to rebuild it a few years ago. I looked and the first number looks like a Y, so what does the Mar. 26 date mean for the YH3 code? Date sold, built, something else? Is there any way to determine where it was first sold at. I will try to get out next weekend and look behind the horn for the engine number.

Latest updates: Went out and looked for the engine numbers yesterday, here are some pice of what I found. I looked under the coil and it's mounting plate, no numbers stamped anywhere the I could find anywhere on the engine. I did get some numbers cast in on the manifold side under the valve cover plate. The last number behind the tubbing is hard to see maybe a 3 ? This is the number on the right side of the transmission. Some one ask about the ribs or mounts bolts on he radiator, not sure what to look for this is the best I could do is a pic, also is the two bladed fan correct? Tube from the break reservoir on the firewall is disconnected and there is just a square plug as the cap for the master cylinder, is that where I would have gone into and the cyl was filed from the firewall? Right side of the engine just because. Thanks again for all the input on the 58 Jeff

I will be back out to the car this weekend. I will look closer at the radiator, and under the coil for the engine number. I found brake fluid in the canister on the firewall and kinda thought it want to the brakes, but where does it go in to the master cylinder, and what does it do? Did these car have air filters, I have seen many pics of engines but no filters? Thanks for all the help. I can't believe now many great folks I have found now that I have taken the time to start researching this car. Jeff

Yes I have 4 wheel hydraulic brakes. I did not find the engine number. I read that is is on the top of the timing chain cover, I will look there next time I get out there, I will look closer at the radiator stuff you mentioned. Also the reservoir on the firewall above steering column is for the brakes I think but what does it do? Mine isn't hooked to anything.

Got it, any help identifying would be great. STJ

Took some pics, didn't find the engine number ( where is it ) I did get a pic of the FEDCO plate If I read it correctly it is : HHH THRE SEVN SIX WWW I tried the link Howard sent but it is still very nard to decipher. Still trying to get the pics to load on this forum

Took some pics, didn't find the engine number ( where is it ) I did get a pic of the FEDCO plate If I read it correctly it is : HHH THRE SEVN SIX WWW I tried the link Howard sent but it is still very nard to decipher.