Tony M

Hello all. Looking to replace the carpet in my 55 Buick Super. What is the correct type and color ? The dash and seats are Red and Black. Thank you. Tony M.

Thank you. 20-50w seems pretty heavy weight for a regular driver . seems more suited for a racer. I may go with the heavier weight rear end lube though. Also , I feel more comfortable with the zinc additive to give the old parts a nice lube .

Thanks NTX5467. Lots of great info here. Too bad about all the alcohol that is in today's modern fuels and additives. Hope we don't EVER see the 15% ethanol that the government is considering. I'm probably a couple of weeks out before I put the car up to do the work. Curious to see what some of the other input will be regarding synthetic oils and other additives. Thanks again. Tony M

Thank you for the response Fr . Buick. I did pull the plug over the summer to check the level on the differential and the fluid was like tar. No trans fluid though. That's why I want to make sure that I change it. BUT.....the owners manual does say " Under no circumstances should the factory lubricant be drained from the rear axle to be replaced with any other type of lubricant ". I think they'll cut me some slack being that its 60 years later. Then it goes on to say "Only Factory Hypoid Gear Lubricant " is recommended. Lead soap-active sulphur type. However, SAE 90 may be used. Since I drive the car A LOT, I want to make sure that I use the right fluids to prevent any issues. Looking for a good recommendation ???? Also would like to see if anybody has used any "FULL SYNTHETIC" Motor oil. I know there are oil manufacturers that have high zinc synthetic oils. Don't know if I should make the change on that issue. As far as the gas lead additive, I did find one that also increases the octane . I figure better safe than sorry. Thanks for you help Tony M

Getting ready to do some maintenance on my 1955 Buick Super. Still has all original motor, trans , rear end etc. Just turned 70,000 miles. I have a couple of questions; What type of fluid should I use to replace the fluid in the rear end ? Should I start to use a full synthetic high zinc motor oil ? Such as AMSOIL Z-Rod ??? Any suggestions on a lead additive for the gas ? Any tips on replacing the motor mounts ? Thanks

Well, I finally flushed the system with the prestone flush. I did the 3 day process. One of the engine block drain plugs was totally clogged. Wouldn't drain even when I totally removed the plug. Stuck a small screwdriver in and cleared the opening.The car is running MUCH BETTER. Still gets hot when Im waiting at a stop light.

Looks like I will be removing the radiator again and making sure that it is in as best condition as possible. Should be able to find a good radiator shop in the Chicago area. Somebody also mentioned trying to find a 5 blade fan. Thanks

OK. Not going to go the bleach route , but I guess I can try the system flush from the parts store. I also had the distributor rebuilt with the generator last year, so I would assume that the vacuum advance is working correctly. The day job gets in the way of the fun stuff. So I usually have to wait until the weekends to work on the car.

Thanks for the quick response. Saw in the new" Mr.Earls whats happening" section in the Buick Bugle that "Old Tank" helped out 56road with his resistor problem. I will check things out and get back soon. Thanks again

I have a 1955 Buick Super that just turned 70,000 miles , that tends to run hot. Doesn't over heat just runs hotter than I think it should. Changed the t-stat, flushed, had the radiator worked on. No change. Any ideas ???