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Ethan1

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Everything posted by Ethan1

  1. I am taking these off. I didn't want to sell in the first place. My apologies.
  2. I have two red Carter carb tool boxes. One is pretty complete. But not entirely. Even has some snapon tools in it. $500 plus shipping for it and the other one is $325 plus shipping. Will only ship to lower US 48.
  3. Questions? How do I remove the venturi and cone from carburetor after they have been pressed out? Yeah, I don't have the special tool and yeah I'll have to buy used ones. But, I had planned on it anyways. I cannot remove it from bottom and I'm having a hard time trying to remove it from side. Also, how do I remove the choke shaft? It seems to be riding on something and I can only pull it out so far. If anyone can help me, it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! Ethan
  4. Payment pending on Carter toolkit.
  5. Have a Carter WCD off an early 50's Chrysler Hemi. I'd have to look at the date code to be sure. Price is $125 + shipping. Urbana, Ohio 43078. Contact me at etrowb@msn.com if interested. Thanks! Ethan
  6. Carter B&B for sale. It does have paint on it but can be cleaned off with brake cleaner. Paint was only on there for corrosion resistance. I believe the date code is 7H1 as well. Asking $125 + shipping. I live in Urbana, Ohio 43078. Contact me at etrowb@msn.com if interested. Thanks! Ethan
  7. I have a rebuilt Carter WGD off a 52 Packard. I would have to look at the date code to be sure. It does have paint on it for corrosion resistance, but can be taken off with brake cleaner. It comes with an extra throttle body. Just needs a new strainer and starter switch kit to complete. I'm asking $135 + shipping. I live in Urbana, Ohio 43078. Contact me at etrowb@msn.com if interested. Thanks! Ethan
  8. I have a Carter WCD for sale. Rebuilt. I believe off 50-53 Buick's. I'd have to look at the date code to be sure. $125 + shipping. I live in Urbana, Ohio 43078. Contact me @ etrowb@msn.com if interested or on here. Thanks, Ethan!
  9. Here are some pics. I know there is some paint on a couple of carbs, but that is just there for corrosion resistance. I was young. Painting them with Eastwood paint I mean. They're put together perfectly, IMO. Just the way they were before I took them apart, minus dirty and rusty and seized. The Carter WCD's are not painted though. The WGD and Ball and Ball is. Like I said, the Carter toolkit is not complete, but has a couple of hard to find tools in it.
  10. I have a Carter B&B E7T1, WGD 928S, WCD's 725S and 931SA. All rebuilt. I also have a WGD (928S) throttle body. Needs strainer and starter switch kit to complete. Have a partial Carter toolkit as well. Carbs are $125 a piece + $20 shipping priority mail. Throttle body is another $10. Toolkit is $75. Please contact me at etrowb@msn.com for photos. Thanks! Ethan Urbana, Ohio 43078
  11. Thank you! Which one do I need after 1947?
  12. I need a new starter switch Carter WGD 928S and strainer. Then for the starter switch, I need everything except for the check ball. And the strainer goes underneath the throttle body in a little hole, just below the big check ball. Thanks for any and all help! Ethan You can contact me on here or by email at etrowb@msn.com
  13. I have another Carter WGD 928S and I need a new starter switch for it and strainer. Then for the starter switch, I need everything except for the check ball. And the strainer goes underneath the throttle body in a little hole, just below the big check ball. Thanks for any and all help! Ethan You can contact me on here or by email at etrowb@msn.com
  14. It sure does, Jon! Cast iron throttle body. Guess I will get the acetylene torch out then and be VERY careful! Thank you for answering my questions and have a great night! Ethan
  15. Also, on a different subject, Jon, what solution in the ultrasonic tank do you recommend for "helping" seized throttle shafts? I have one in a WGD (928S) that I need to get out. Thank you! Ethan
  16. Thanks, Jon. Has you can see on the left side, it looks like the metal housing is slightly warped. I am not going to mess with right now. Too dark out now, but will correct it, rebuild it and put it in my Ultrasonic Tank to clean. Thanks, I will let, Dave, know about the heat tube from the manifold! It's not my carburetor, by the way. I am just fixing it for him.
  17. Thanks, Jon. I figured the 170AC206S was just a new part number. Guess not. I took it off and installed the 170AB335S. Geez, those things are hard to get on. At least they don't break like the older version. Here are some photos:
  18. Can't get photo to post, but it's the actual lip that goes on first when installing choke. Plus, you would need a 1" long screws instead of the 1/2" screws. Wouldn't look right is what I am getting at. Here is the new part number 170AC206S #1409473. http://www.ebay.com/itm/311474512347?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  19. Thank you, but I already have that one and it doesn't work. The "lip" on it is actually too big. I finally found one. I will post a photo with both chokes to show you what I mean about the lip being too big.
  20. Hello, I need a new choke cover for my carburetor. The part number on the choke cover is 170AB206S. Old ones lip is cracked and chipped off. Cover no longer usable. Please contact me if you have one with photo. Thanks, Ethan! etrowb@msn.com Urbana, Ohio 43078
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