Ketron281989

While servicing smaller items on the car I wanted to perform a compression test on the engine to see just how healthy it is. As stated before the car received what appears to be a frame off restoration back in the early 1990's. I would imagine the engine was rebuilt at that time.Newest video: I think we have a winner, manual calls for a reading between 90 psi and 112 psi. I received 100 psi across the board! This is good news as all cylinders were the same. I think it is safe to assume no issues with the cylinder walls, pistons, or rings. I will eventually remove the valve cover and look closer within that area as the head gasket is leaking once the engine gets up to temp driving around the block several times before I garaged it a few weeks ago.Original spark plugs were K-11. Those are no longer obtainable (I would love to find an original set though). As a replacement I am using R-45 AC Delco. Upon taking out the previous plugs, they have soot on them. The car has never been on a long trip so partially understandable as to why they are sooty. The previous plugs weren't gapped!! After the compression test I installed a brand new set of R-45's and gapped all of them to manual spec's .040 gap. Pictures of the old plug attached.

As my objective is to do light servicing at this time for a few upcoming car shows, I decided to tackle the radiator hoses as part of the overall service to get the car on the road again. The hose set on the car is quite corroded and they look worn out. Went ahead and purchased a new set via Chev's of the 40's. Original specs of the radiator hoses for 1937 passenger cars: Upper hose 1 1/4 ID 5 5/8 length Lower (two pieces plus metal elbow) Upper 1 1/2 ID 2 3/4 length Lower 1 1/2 ID 5 inches long Attached are the old hoses removed from the car.

With the new fuel pump installed and serviced carb already installed I merely need to position the steel reproduction lines and fit with compression fittings and couplings. I still need to service the sending unit as well as make any final carb adjustments once everything is back together. The gas tank will need looked at as well, although it was rebuilt and serviced by "Tank Renu" years ago. Hopefully this helps in the health of the tank, we shall see as old gas wrecks havoc!I have test fit the new fuel line between pump and carb, fits well! I will not be using flare fittings as there is not enough length before the bend on one end to fit into my Eastwood flare die! So compression fittings will be the final install. I am having an issue with photo orientation. I have tried editing to correct with no avail, perhaps I need to take all photo's as a landscape orientation versus portrait. Will try this method continuing forward. Apologize for the inconvenience.

Upon the vehicle arriving my house, I performed a few checks regarding oil levels and visual inspections of the car's current mechanical state. Aside from the long hibernation, there wasn't much that looked to be in bad shape. I took the car around 3 blocks ten times in a large rectangular pattern to get a feel for it's characteristics and where we may stand regarding current mechanical condition. It is safe to say the car shifted, stopped, and drove well. The rebuilt carb I installed (1941 W-1 Carter) works well although will need slight adjustment. I have concluded all systems will need looked over and freshened up to become a daily driver again. Now back in the garage post drive it is time to rebuild the fuel system as well as several other critical systems including cooling, lubrication, and any electrical that needs serviced. We will start with fuel. The previous owner must have had an issue with the main fuel line, as it currently is a rubber fuel line. This must go. There are two fuel lines, one long one between the tank and fuel pump, and a shorter line between the pump and carb. I plan to replace both lines as they are in need if it. I purchased two pre-bent to factory spec's steel lines and plan to use the nut and Ferrell system for attaching to fittings at the tank, pump, and carb. I have discovered two parts houses for vintage Chevrolet reproduction parts, they are The Filling Station and Chev's of the 40's. Most everything I will need for the '37 Chevrolet can be had on these two sites. I took out the old fuel pump, which is not correct for 1937, and install a new period correct glass bowl rebuilt pump as shown in the pictures. Basically two bolts and a gasket. The re-paint of the engine back in 1990 is poor. You can see an orange primer or such behind where the fuel pump sat. I was carful to use a plastic scraper and scrape all old gasket material off of the mating surface before installation. Newest Video:

Hi Steve, I am located in Lexington KY. Thanks! Jon

Hi Joe, I have been following along with your 1936 Chrysler topic since you started it. It was very informative and interesting read. Hope to have a similar experience! Jon

Hi John, thank you for sharing. Very nice cars!

Thank you Mike

Thank you Gary

Thank you!

Hello, My name is Jon and I am 32 years old. I am relatively still new to pre-war cars. I recently acquired a 1937 Chevrolet Master Deluxe bussiness coupe and would like to make it a driver once again. The car has been driven 300 miles since it had what appears to be an frame off restoration back in 1990. A rust free car and well preserved, it has been in storage since 2005. I obtained this vehicle from an older gentleman friend whom purchased it in 2004 from another owner. No prior history is known aside from a stated fact by the previous owner the car was purchased as a deluxe from the factory in 1937. I wanted to document and share my journey to achieving road worthy status. I look forward to eventually touring the car and taking it to AACA events, I am a national and local member. Any help along the way would be great. I have a small video series I have made via my YouTube channel and will periodically post video links as to what I am working on regarding the 1937 Chevrolet. I will have questions along the way for those whom are intrested, hope everyone enjoys! Video link 1: Video link 2: Video link 3: Thanks, Jon Ketron

Great advise, thank you. Jon

I think the writing is clearly visible to stay away from 1936. To think, the 1936 convertible I was looking at was missing it's original carb and air cleaner, as well as voltage regulator, choke cable/knob, cigarette lighter knob as well!! While the Lasalle is a beautiful car, I want to stick with Cadillac. How do the 1935 series fair compared to the 1936? Thanks Jon

I really appreciate all the responses which have lead me to stay away from the 1936 year Cadillac car. The '37 LaSalle is very nice, are parts hard to find for the Lasalle years 1934-1937? The styling is beautiful! Thanks, Jon

Hello, I am a fellow collector with pre-war interests. I do most of my own mechanical work out of my garage, minus rebuilding engines and full on restoration. I have a pre war Ford from 1936 currently and want to look into upgrading to a more senior car such as a Cadillac V8 manufactured between 1935-1937. How available are parts, say for a 1935 or 1936 year Cadillac? I am to understand the Monoblock engine which first debuted in 1936 was a one year only model, then changed in 1937 to remain somewhat unchanged for several years after. 1935 was the last year for the old style aluminum crank case engine. Are engine parts hard to come by for 1935 and 1936? Several guys have helped provide the information above via the Cadillac/LaSalle club. I wanted to garter more response though, as purchasing a pre war Cadillac and be expensive and I want to make sure I have all my bases covered before I choose. Anything to stay away from or graduate toward? I'm more interested in two door coupe's and convertibles which command a higher premium. Would an original 1936 series 60 car that needs mechanical service be a car to stay away from when it come's to pre-war Cadillac. My parts search for these years mentioned above, not very fruitful. I understand parts cost money, I have had my fair share of hunting and spending. I would think for the more senior cars, parts and networking are rarer to come by? Hoping I am wrong! Thank you for your time, Jon