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my31buick

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Posts posted by my31buick

  1. 21 hours ago, Oregon Desert model 45 said:

    Is there a machined casting inside of the stamped sheetmetal hub that can be removed ?

    If so, then you should consider replacing it with a machined hub with modern permanently lubricated bearings .

    Below is photo of the new hub I machined for my Buick and drawing of the machined part.

    Some of those dimensions may different for 1931, so use this drawing as reference.

    Kevin

    machined fan hub.jpg

    Fan Conversion #3 - Drawing-X2.jpg

    I had something  similar done to my previous  fan hub. It was crude looking and squeeled a bit like the bearing was damaged when it was pressed in. Would you be willing to machine one for me if I sent my fan hub to you? If so what would you charge?

  2. Ok guys I have found a fan similar to the 31 buick fan. It is off of an early ford V-8 flathead. the blades need cut down but the hub bolt pattern is the same. Below are some pictures. This leaves me with some questions. 1. Is the oil in the hub both for shaft lubrication and balancing?  2. I can use a cut off wheel to cut the replacement fan down to the correct length, But how do I go about balancing the fan before putting in back on? Obviously I would prefer to have the correct fan but if one is not found you improvise. Any suggestions are welcome.

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  3.   Hello ladies and gentlemen,  Some of you may remember me from the Oklahoma buick meet last year in Oklahoma. I had a 31-57 at the show and my 3 year old daughter enjoyed the show as much as my wife and I. Well we have not drove the car much at all this year due to covid  shutting down car shows and other things.  Yesterday my daughter begged me to take her out in the old buick and the weather was probably as cool as we were going to get for July so we charged the battery, fired her up and pulled out down the road. My daughter grinning from ear to ear. About 8 miles down the road the car got a vibration. At first I was thinking a tire going down and then we heard a loud bang like metal against metal. I eased of the throttle and coasted into a gas station. Antifreeze pouring out from under the car. I raise the hood and find a fan blade missing. It broke off and sliced up the radiator. Upon further inspection I find that 2 other blades are cracked and about to break as well. Looking at the metal break it appears there have been hair line cracks in the blades for some time as a portion of the cracks are rusty instead of being clean shiny metal throughout the entire break. Has anyone ever had anything like this happen before? Know what causes this failure? And most importantly does anyone out there have a fan assembley that would be correct for a 31-57? I have very limited internet access so if anyone has any ideas, or has a fan assembly please call me . Shawn 918-607-3923 or email me at seldredge76@hotmail.com. Thanks guys.

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  4. On ‎7‎/‎4‎/‎2018 at 10:05 AM, Matt Harwood said:

    I'm a big fan of electric pumps for priming and to fight vapor lock on hot days. I install them on most of my cars and all the advice above is good. I use the Airtex E8902 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8902), which is 6-volt and 4 PSI. It is also a draw-through design so you can shut it off and your mechanical pump should be able to pull through it easily. Easy to mount, easy to wire, doesn't take much juice to run it, and it's quiet (I can't hear it running if the engine is running). I have installed about a half-dozen of them and have yet to have a failure, but they're so cheap (less than $35), that I keep a spare in the trunk just in case. 

     

    In fact, I'm installing one in my '35 Lincoln as I write this (taking a break--man it's HOT today). I'll have photos in my '35 Lincoln thread later today or tomorrow. Easy to install and solves a lot of the problems you're having.

     

    Also do a search for my threads and article on LED lighting, which I'm using in the tail/stop lights of all my old cars, 6 and 12 volt.

     

  5. So put on electric pump with regulator near tank. use a switch to run it temporarily to prime the carb. I assume this electric pump is pushing fuel thru the manual pump without cranking the engine? and after start up I shut electric pump off and let manual pump suck fuel thru the electric pump? The electric pump had a warning that running it in conjunction with a manual pump can fill the oil pan with fuel? any thoughts on that?? Thanks again guys.

  6. On ‎6‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 10:17 AM, bmg1959 said:

    I have an electric fuel pump 6 volt back by tank on my 1932 56S. Mine sets for long periods between starts and it fires right up after letting pump run for 15-20 seconds.

    I have a hidden switch for it and I don't always remember to shut it of, but never has caused any problems.

    I do not have a pressure regulator either, and my Marvel seems to handle it alright, but I am sure would be better and safer with one.

    Brian

    Ok , so do you let your electric pump push fuel thru the manual pump? and after start up you shut electric pump off and let manual pump suck thru electric pump that is not on?

  7. Hello guys, Its been a long time since I have been on here.. I am considering putting an electric fuel pump on my 31-57.. Has anyone done this? the reason I wish to do this is because it is often 1-2 months at times between drives. It takes forever cranking the engine to get the fuel pumped up to the carb with the manual fuel pump. I think electric, Although not original would pressure up and fill the carb bowl quickly allowing for faster start and less wear on starter and battery. I have a 6 v fuel pump. Any ideas on what the pressure should be set  at on the early buicks?   Also does anyone have any ideas on turn signal kits for the early buicks.? I often take my wife and 2 yr old daughter for drives in the ol girl and would feel a lot safer with led turn and stop lights up front and out back. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks to all.

  8. can anyone tell me what the normal range amp gauge readings on a 31-57 while running down the hyw without lights on. and what it should be with lights on. and how do I make adjustments?. Going down the hwy at 45 mph. It is reading  about 13. turn headlights on and it drops to zero. Honk horn at it drops to zero

  9. I am the one that  bought pete phillips.. My car is a 50 series and in pics it looked like the right one but it is not. it has u shaped brackets on top that fit under the radiator shell. and I believe it uses the crank cover to hold the bottom end. I have found a guy who can build me a stone guard for my car. He will use the one I got from pete as a guide and my radiator shell to fit it. The one I got from Pete looks to probably be period correct. as it is flat metal strips that make the mesh instead of round wire mesh. It will be for sale when I get a new one built.

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