52_Special

Agreed with that. Personally I am not trying to make money, just don't want to get hosed on the sale. I have been pretty adamant </SPAN></SPAN>to my wife that parting out is not the way to go. No offense taken to any offer, the harshest thing I can tell you is "no thanks".

To the top for the weekend. Have several calls and e-mails but no takers as of yet.

I need to sell my 1952 Buick Special. I just don't have the time to devote to it. </SPAN>I bought it in July 2012 with big dreams, however with talks of a new baby and a hectic work schedule, this project is over my head. My wife is urging me to part it out, I don't want to because it is complete, but I can't hold out long. </SPAN> Due to issues with our HOA, the car had to be moved and is now located in Mooresville, NC. Exterior:</SPAN> Fair condition with some rust, the front floor pans will need to be replaced as does the spare tire well in the trunk. The picture does not include, but I do have the hub caps and trim rings for the wheels. Glass: </SPAN> Front windshield, rear glass pieces, and rear side windows are good with no cracks; the two front side windows are cracked and need to be replaced. Interior: </SPAN> Two front door panels are missing otherwise; complete, but fair condition Mechanical:</SPAN> The engine (a 263 cu in Straight -8) runs great but the Dynaflow 2-speed automatic transmission needs an overhaul. Tires are new whitewalls. New brake hoses, rebuild master cylinder, and bled with fresh brake fluid. </SPAN> The fuel system has been gone through with a new correct gas tank and sending unit from TANKS Inc. A 6v fuel pump and filter was added with new fuel lines from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump. The original mechanical fuel pump and filter is not installed but kept with car. </SPAN> Electrical:</SPAN> All original except the fuel pump wiring, also just replaced the 6v Battery.</SPAN> Documents: Clean NC title in my name with no liens.</SPAN> I am open to offers and have all receipts related to work done. Please e-mail </SPAN>celutz@hotmail.com</SPAN></SPAN> or call 704-699-2936</SPAN> </SPAN></SPAN>

No one needs this part? I can take better pictures if need be.

No one wants to make an offer?

Robert and Pete, I saw that small copper woven strap attached to the firewall. I will def be using that as another point of grounding. The previous owner must have had problems also with the rear lights as there is home-made ground wires from each of the tail lights to a central bolt near the trunk latch. My plan will be to use the location Robert pictured above as the home base to strap to the frame, firewall, and body, then an additional strap in the back from the body to the frame. Hopefully that will provide a clear path via the frame, from the rear to the battery. Sound like a plan?

So, I have checked the forums and the manual and I have not found anywhere that there is any more grounding straps other than the one from the battery to the engine. Checking other sources, the general consensus is that there needs to be several, including but not limited to: </SPAN> from the negative post on the battery to the engine block, </SPAN> from the engine to the firewall, </SPAN> from the dash to the body,</SPAN> from the body to the frame or the battery negative post,</SPAN> from the frame to the engine block </SPAN>Did the original vehicle come with this many? What happened? Rust? Am I just suppose to drill holes, wire brush the rust off and bolt it on? Where should I put them, all in the front near the battery, one or two near the back? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm just not savy on electrical issues. Thanks,

Hello, I have a 1953 Buick Special Trunk Ornament that I would like to sell. This item is located in Huntersville, NC. Shoot me an offer.

Thank you!

I have a Florida Horseless carriage license plate that came with a vehicle I purchased. I would call it fair condition, the previous owner drilled two extra top holes. Also, the paint is worn off next to the "V" in DMV. and at the upper left hand corner where the "8" in 8718. I was thinking $25 shipped, but will accept offers. Item Located in Huntersville, NC.

Ok so everybody's got "a guy", body "guy", transmission "guy", general repair "guy". I have a few things going on (leaky seals, transmission leaks, various odds and ends) that I just don't have the time or energy to fix. I need a guy that is close to the Huntersville, NC area. Does anyone have a recommendation or a lead of someone? Preferably someone familiar with the 50's vehicles?

Thanks Bob, I may actual have some of that laying around too (new roof in 2010). Thanks for the good suggestions guys!

Thanks Joe! Just needed that good direction. I checked Lowe's and they have a 6"X6"X1/8" rubber sheet for $1.90 that I can cut to size.

Hello, I researched this and could not find the answer I was looking for. When I dropped my gas tank I noticed that there were two heavy gauge felt pads between the body and the gas tank. They were obviously not reusable. I understand that purpose that these pads serve in minimizing friction. My problem is that I don't know where to find an adequate replacement. This doesn't seem to come up on the radar very often as the only ones that came up on a Google search were for Mopar cars. What could I use to insulate the gas tank from the body? </SPAN>

Thanks Ben, Do you have a part number I could use to reference?