Roadmaster 48

Thanks Ben!

Thanks for the input everyone. The more I think about it I think it's a good idea to try to restore the original suspension first. Based on input from here I think that may ride and handle well enough even on the tortured roads of metro Detroit. I can always modify the suspension later if I still want to. I wish moving to somewhere with real roads was an option, but it may take a few years to talk the wife into that. Here is the old 48 on the infamous Woodward Ave. mentioned above.

By the way can anyone see my pictures? I added a profile pic and a few pictures to the gallery, but they don't appear to be showing up. Here is a picture in any case. Jason

Thanks for the input everyone. For the 'performanc modified' forum, it seems like most really prefer to keep things stock! This car has been in the family since 1963 and my Dad would disown me if I ever sold it, not that I want to. I want to leave the appearance completely stock, because I don't think it's possible to improve it. It's just a gorgeous design inside and out. That would include the steering wheel and column which may limit what I can do with the steering. I also want to keep the straight 8. I'm not looking to make it handle like a performance car or even a modern car, I just want to be able to safely keep up with traffic and say goodbye to the white knuckle experience trying to keep it in one lane as it bounces all over the road. I am ok sticking with drum brakes, but I do really want to add power steering. I think in 52 the Roadmaster had power steering and a straight eight, but I don't know if the converting it would just be a matter of bolting on parts. I believe the tires are radials, but I don't think the suspension has ever been touched. It looks like every bushing is completely original and completely shot. I'm sure the shocks should be replaced as well, but I'm not sure about the springs. Do the springs in these cars typically fatigue over time? I found this summary of the factory suspension on these cars which is what made me want to modernize it, along with a friend of mind who has built a few street machines. "Key shortcomings of the original suspension These cars actually drive reasonably well, and this basic suspension technology was a mainstay for 50 years. However, it does have certain shortcomings: These cars came with zero to 1/2 degree of negative caster. When they were originally engineered, this was a reasonable setup. Negative caster makes the car easier to turn, and gives greater control in muddy ruts and other bad road conditions that were prevalent in the 1940s and 1950s. However, modern roads and increased speed limits favor positive caster, as it allows the car to stay centered and stable at today's highway speeds. High positive caster became more common as power steering became common. Conversely, manual steering is fine at higher speeds, but requires greater effort in low speed situations, especially parking lots. Manual steering works best at about 1-½ to 2 degrees of caster, which is a compromise between high speed stability and slow speed turning effort. Due to the up and down-only rotation of the control arms, and cross-rotation of the king pins, any attempt to add more caster is fraught with problems. Anti-dive geometry is impossible in this setup. On the pre-1950s models, the lever action shocks also present problems. They're hard to find, expensive (about $200 each plus $100 core charge if yours aren't rebuildable), and even in perfect working order, they have their shortcomings. The shocks are basically only good for a stock-only application. Raising or lowering the vehicle puts them out of their designed operating range. Increasing or decreasing weight with engine and transmission swaps alters their effectiveness. The hubs/drums run on ball bearings. While reasonably durable if properly maintained, tapered roller bearings are generally thought to be stronger, more stable, and better able to withstand continuous high-speed driving. Ball bearings are now hard to find and cost about $200 for the full set. By comparison, a full set of tapered bearings will run about $25." I can't really speak to the accuracy of this info, but the person definitely knows more than me. Besides I found it on the internet so it must be true

I am still open to the idea of rebuilding what I've got if I thought it would have acceptable handling when I'm done. That would be a big investment if I still end up with a car I can't keep in one lane. This car was built way before my time so have no idea how it would have handled when it was new. My dad said it always handled pretty badly, but then again it was 15 years old when he got it so it wasn't exactly new even back then. To anyone who thinks I should keep it stock and has a stock Buick of this vintage themselves, I say take me for a ride in yours and convince me how nice it drives! Jason

I have a 48 Roadmaster which is still original, but I would like to make it more driveable. It wanders all over the road and does not react well to the broken pavement which is everywhere in Detroit. I'm sure rebuilding the existing front suspension would help, but I doubt I would be really happy with the results so I would rather put the money toward some upgrades. I am leaning toward a whole new front suspension, and I would like to know what others here have done. Would a GM B body front suspension fit reasonably well (as in the 90's Roadmaster)?