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120mm

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Everything posted by 120mm

  1. I would say that is exactly what it is. Since this is Iowa, and temps can get pretty low here, that would be a necessary item. Funny thing is, grandpa had a bunch of feed sacks in the trunk as well, and that is what they would've normally used then, since cardboard is the current thing we use.
  2. 120mm is in regards to the Main gun on an M1A1 Abrams tank. One of my former rides.
  3. Well, since I am cheap and fairly counter-culture, I am going to drive it around as is, provided I can get it running. Thanks for the tip on the spare tire cover. Too bad the mice got to it.
  4. I love dismantling. Need to just stop and take it one bit at a time.
  5. No photos this time, but I just spent part of this afternoon rocking Ava. It is slowly sliding out the door, but no unstuck engine, yet. I have patience and a lot of work to do, so am not worried. I did manage to mess with the windows. I got a lot of broken glass cleaned out, and freed all 8 window mechanisms. 8? you may ask yourself. that's two pivoting front quarter windows, four roll down windows and two pivoting rear quarter windows. With the roll down windows broken, only the passengers' side will actually go up and down. It takes a full sized and shaped window for them to function properly, so I rolled them down and left them down to save on the lacerations. I also took apart the oil bath air filter, and oohed and aahed at the brand new looking filter element and inside. Looks like it just came from the factory. I also figured out why everyone thought the car was maroon; Grampa never washed it, but he wore the paint off the window sills with his arm, which exposed the red primer. Also, hogs had rubbed against the body, and did the same. The only clean parts of the car were those two bits, and they looked reddish, so everyone just assumed it was maroon in color.
  6. Am not sure exactly what this is. it has wires around the curved side and snaps along the straight side.
  7. Tom, I'm certain the stuck open valve is because of FOD. If I can free it up, and get the machine running, I will reinspect and try rapping it with a wooden mallet. If that doesn't work, I'll pull the head. Advice is about 50/50 right now on pulling the head or not. I have time to fiddle, so am holding off on the head. The can you speak of, it hooks up to a silver painted tube via an accordian hose that takes in outside air at the side grille. I assumed it was fresh air for the heater/vent. Never really examined it closely. If you look right above it, you'll see the bracket for a Dodge Brothers fire extinguisher. I removed it to save it from possible damage, but mine is still fully charged. I've found several cool things about this car. Like the original tool kit cover (mouse eaten, dammit) with the Dodge Brothers logo on it and snow chains in the trunk.
  8. That's pretty much what I was thinking. I have time right now; and I may pull the head later anyway, but will try that first. The radiator was full of ancient antifreeze, so we know it holds fluid. Flushing isn't tough, though need to remember to not let water sit in it, as winter approaches... I'm assuming everything in the ignition system (rotor, distro cap, points, plugs, what's left of the wiring) needs replaced. I'm also assuming/hoping these are still readily available. I know there are a metric ton of these engines produced/still around. It's oil bath, and the right side of the engine is coated to prove it. Grampa Herman has a lattice work of baling wire to give it support, though, and am wondering why he did that? You've correctly identified my Achilles' heel with your last statement. I am the world's most enthusiastic taker a parter. Have told myself I will do one thing at a time on this.
  9. So, I checked to see that the valves were moving, and they all are. Well, one of them is hanging up a bit in the "up" position, but it moves, and I can deal with that later, when I am worrying about getting the machine running. I took some more pics of the process. As you can see, The pictures show a progression. I had to take a picture of the rubber, as the tires are still holding air, despite almost having disintegrated from sitting flat for literally decades (1942-ish?) They aren't the original tires, but that's the last time anyone remembers the car running, so that's our guess. I've been dumping copious amounts of penetrating oils in the spark plug holes, and this was the first time we took it off the blocks and tried to rock it back and forth. This brings up a question. What is the shift pattern of a Dodge? is it a normal "H" with reverse being the top left? So high gear would be bottom right? Or is reverse bottom right? Now that we know it's not valves, we'll continue to dump stuff down the spark plug holes and rock it back and forth in 3rd. In between times, I'm going to start dismantling the doors and trying to fix the windows, so it will be ready from glass some day, and pull the gas tank and get that serviced. Any other suggestions?
  10. Cool. I have one of those already; I was using it as a ersatz calipers just the other day.
  11. Yessir, that is my second to last kitty in Afghanistan, Simba. He was too friendly for his own good, and was euthanized by the Army. In my real job, I am an Ethnographer, and just spent a touch over three years living and working in Afghanistan.
  12. I'm assuming the valve covers are on the right side of the engine on an L-head? And wouldn't the valves push up?
  13. Dad mentioned something like this. I need to examine the shop manual to see how this is done. Yessir; most of the wiring is gone, and I'm assuming it needs a new coil and/or carb rebuilt, so will be changing the oil. Will be sure to check the engine over; when the car was parked in 1942, it had/has 35,000 miles, actual. While most everything should be in good condition, will be sure to check it out thoroughly. I really appreciate the suggestions and tips, though. It's been awhile since I wrenched on an engine.
  14. Speaking of interesting stories, I used a car carrier that I borrowed from my brother. Our ancestral home is in Northwest Iowa, and I live in Central Iowa, so that's a bit of a hump. I arrived at the family farm, only to discover that the H&H trailer that was promised to me was missing a grease hub, and that particular trailer used proprietary hubs. My dad's farm is a veritable junk yard, so I went from trailer to trailer, looking for a hub that would fit. We spent a good 2 hours looking for, trying out, and discarding grease hubs, and as it got hotter and hotter, we got more and more frustrated. Finally, we sat down next to the already loaded trailer, and while drinking a cool drink of water, I was admiring Ava, sitting on her "not to be moved" trailer home, and my eyes rested upon the axle hub. No. It can't be. I took the valve spring compressor I was using as a field expedient calipers and measured the axle hub on the front right wheel of the Dodge, and it measured pretty darned close. I removed the hub with a large screwdriver, and sure enough, it fit perfectly to the trailer hub. I cleaned and repacked the trailer bearing, and it was down the road we went. I think my forehead was pretty flat from slapping it. For those that are wondering, a 1938 Dodge axle hub fits an H&H trailer.
  15. I shall. My order of priority, right now is to get the engine unstuck, gas tank removed, inspected and returned to service, and get the ignition system rebuilt to serviceable so we can see if it will run. Critters have eaten most wires, but nothing looks so complicated that it cannot be rebuilt or replaced. I will pry start a different topic for each question, though, as this thread can get unmanageable, fast. No problem; I just find it interesting that owner's manual reprints are so plentiful for 1939, and am wondering if that's because Chrysler took over that year?
  16. Owner's Manual? I have a shop and parts manual. All I can find in reprints is the 1939 Owner's manual.
  17. I'm glad you gave that suggestion. I was trying to use a 1 13/16" socket on the hand crank nut on the front of the engine. I'm afraid of breaking the bolt, frankly, I will def try your suggestion.
  18. So, I tried the CLR trick on part of the hood, and it worked well. That's the good news. The bad news, is that I was led to believe the car was originally maroon and the surface rust and pile o' dust made it that light brown color. Well, the paint wasn't maroon. The original color of the car was that hideous light brownish/copper/bronze-ish Dodge made some of their cars. (Shudders....) We'll keep it the same as we get it running and make it drivable, but someday it's getting a new coat of paint.
  19. That's Plan A. But if plan A doesn't work, there is at least one forum member with a free turning engine.
  20. Now that's what I'm talking about. CLR on terry cloth towels to bring back the paint. Never would've thought of that, and I need something to do while the money for each part of the project recharges. I was deliriously happy just to have the original title and registration. I am going back up there next weekend, and will look around some more.
  21. Good advice. So far, I've cleaned out the mouse droppings, removed the seats and the hood/radiator, so I could get to the fly wheel. Once I determine whether to keep the engine I have or not, I just want to get it running. I plan on doing one job at a time, while using it to tool around my small town where I live.
  22. I found owner's manuals for 1939, but haven't seen one for 1938. Will the 1939 suffice, or is there a reprint 1938 out there that I am overlooking. I already have a repair manual and parts manual on the way.
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