Sasha39
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Posts posted by Sasha39
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That is odd, I recall seeing a 75 with a Holden badge on it, your 75 cowl doesn’t have any small drill holes at the base of the cowl on the left side, where they normally put the Holden badges.
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Hi Vintageben,
Sorry can’t answer your question but I would guess the answer could be it might depend on who it was that built the body, I believe that the Chryslers were brought into Australia as a rolling chassis with the cowl installed and the rest of the body was build here by various body builders. I would agree with you that the 2 type was probably use on lesser models than the 75, my 1929 Roadster and tourer models 65 have the 2nd type even my Sedan have a similar hinge.
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For those that might be interested here is an illustration of what appears to be a 1928 Chrysler engine, though it might help someone.
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It’s part of the Powerhouse museum display in Castle Hill near my home here in New South Wales Australia if you visit the site you can you can read about the chassis, see more photos of it, plus other car related info also including the Chrysler body.
https://collection.powerhouse.com.au/?objects[query]=Chrysler-
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2 hours ago, keiser31 said:
Exactly what I was hoping for that rear section!
It must be pleasing to see, that sometimes your wishes do come true!
Great to see that it was saved.
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Thanks for the info Graeme, interesting you mention Northampton as in 1926 there were two Chrysler's registered in the Northampton Road Board district, like I said it's a shame The Carnamah site does mention the models.
A.G. Drage, rego NR 78 Chrysler Northampton although Trove says that the rego was NR.51— A. G. Drage, Chrysler 80.
the second car registered owner K. Maley, rego NR 129 Chrysler Northampton interestingly enough married a Janet Jean DRAGE in Nothampton in 1928, who happens to be the daughter of Albert George DRAGE who owns the Chrysler Imperial 80, interesting stuff this detective work but I think you better PM as this may not be interesting to the other members of the forum,
Let’s get back to talking about our cars.
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Hi Graeme, if you don’t mind can you share where and when you found your car?
also have you checked this site for possible information, its a pity they don’t mention the models of the vehicles.https://www.carnamah.com.au/car-registrations?keyword=Chrysler+1926&page=1
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While we are at it, here is the build information that Narve mentioned.
Also you might like to check out this site, look at page 35.
https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Articles/Fedco/index.htm
Or here if you don’t have a owners manual look here, you can print out each page.
https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Yr/1926/26Owners/Page001.htm
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Hi Graeme,
thanks for the Photo as I can now see the E’s much clearer, and thanks to Narve for supplying the website information so that you can get the information.
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G’day over in the west, looks like a great project and I sure you’ll have the old girl back on the road for her 100th birthday.
just some info for you.
CWC= Campbell Wynat and Cannon foundry
TDA= Timken Detroit Axle. Timken- Detroit became Rockwell in -1953.
can you please give us a head on photo of the Fedco ID plate, no big thing as I think I can see the E at the bottom of the Chrysler emblem at the front at the Bottom as the Fedco number should be starting with an E, the front letter can be a bit hard to read because of the emblem being there.
Cheers from Sydney.
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G’day Ron, if it helps you I believe that the design of the Desoto model K was based on the 1929 Chrysler 65 model, there is a guy on FB that is rebuilding one
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Here’s a video that might help you as well.
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Yes there are a lot of posts regarding vacuum tank restoration in the forum, this one is very good with videos as well.
also a lot of videos on the web if your have a Stewart model this is good.Good luck, I did mine, fairly easy and it has been working over 20 years without giving any grief.
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Thanks for the explanation lozrocks, I didn’t think that the 75 model was that different from the 65 which has a one piece brake shoe, well you learn something new every day.
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As always John is right, all your Brake Drums should have the same hole, a cover plate sits on top secured by two threaded screws. The holes aline with your eccentric anchor bolts at the bottom.
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Yes that definitely looks a lot better, I would ask the seller for some measurements just to make sure it will fit. But this is a better choice then the other one which was a gas cap.
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Here is one from the Sedan
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Hi John,
Here you go, hope it helps.
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I’ll check my cap tomorrow for dimensions.
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Hi John,
That cap on eBay is a cap that sits over the sending unit on a 1929 Chrysler, I don’t think it would make a good radiator cap.
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Thanks 1939_Buick, yes there might be slight differences, hopefully the lead on some here in Oz might lead to fining a set.
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Thanks for letting me know ckowner, I’ll keep you in mind should my lead for a pair not pan out here in Australia, will PM you if I need help.
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31LaSalle, if you notice there is a gap between the Oil Pan and flywheel cover and the metal strap with the felt are there to stop dust and dirt getting into that gap, and yes it is thick felt and the strap shouldn’t be flat but have a contour or lip to it to allow for the difference in the thickness of the pan and flywheel cover and the felt flexibility follows the contour to make a good seal.
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1928 Chrysler 72 conv coupe
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
As you said the seal is fitted between the pan and the flywheel housing and I guess it there to keep dust and dirt out of the flywheel housing as there is a gap between the lower half of the flywheel housing and the big end where the seal is fitted.