akejama
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Posts posted by akejama
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A question...are your plans to keep the original tach or at least the face of the old tach? There are companies like "John Wolf Company" that will convert about any gauge or instrument. If this is your direction I would think $200.00 is in your rear view mirror.
I don't care about keeping anything but the face and indicator arm. I'll go look up John Wolf Co. and see what they charge. I've found several in the $240 range but thats a bit over budget with all the other repairs we're already doing. The tach would be great to have back in service, but conquering the minor oil drip is a higher priority for me. thanks for your reply. TDE
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I would appreciate directions as to how to convert a tachometer to work with an electronic ignition. I see there are some parts including a circuit board on ebay, but I'm electronically challenged,so schematics mean little to me. I just need a plain old English take part A and connect to part B type of help. This is for a 1974 Corvette. I have several 30's cars and this forum has always been of great help to me, so please don't beat me up for asking for help on a 70's car. I asked how to do this here because the people here are really great to help and give advice. It may not be the correct place but when you trust folks, then thats where ya go to find out what you don't know. So my apologies if this thread offends anyone. And Please, if you know of an American company that can do this for less than $200 please let me know. Being retired has left me with a limited budget to indulge in saving really cool cars. thanks, Tom
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"Year One" or "Legendary Interiors" may have the material that you need.
GREAT HELP! Year One definately has what I need and I am ordering...thanks the long look is finally over. I do appreciate the help, and hope I can some day return the favor by helping someone else. I'm sure you know how great it is to finally find something you knew was out there but couldn't locate on your own. And if you don't, well it made today a pretty good day afterall!
thanks, Tom
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Hi, I already posted an ad on the sales boards under "looking to buy" but that usually gets me nowhere except 20 emails from scammers in Europe who always have what I want in stock for immediate shipment...
..right! So, please don't beat up on me for posting here where I always have gotten good advice.I need to find the vinyl trim or something that I can use for vinly trim to do the interior back window in my 1965 Jetstar 88. It's the cheapest car Oldsmobile made in 65 and this is a 4 door to boot. It drives like a dream with only 40k actual miles on her. The interior looks like its right out of the showroom; all but the back window vinyl trim which is just turning to dust. Any ideas? Any sources? Any suggestions I would appreciate. I've been looking on various Craigs Lists and Ebay, etc etc. but nothing. I may even be looking or asking wrongly. Whatever help is always appreciated.
Thanks, Tom in the cornfields of Indy.
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Hi.. I'm wanting to buy the trim or the vinyl material to make the trim for the rear window in my 1965 Jetstar 88. I don't care about color I can paint. If anyone has an idea or suggestion of where I might find the material to make the trim please let me know. Mine is crumbling from too much sun exposure.
(IF OUTSIDE THE U.S.A. DON'T BOTHER ME WITH THE "WE HAVE IT IN STOCK SCAM."
) thanks tde
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Glad to help.
No problem getting the Ancor P/N 2261 mounts which cost less than $10. at Auto Zone. So, I drove the Cutlass over to my shop to install the mounts only to find that the 1965 Jestar 88 that I had left on my lift a couple of weeks ago had sprung a leak from the water pump, so decided to just go ahead and replace it and then work on the Cutlass. I finished the water pump and moved the Jetstar off the lift and parked it outside. When I came around the building to move the Cutlass onto the lift I found that my wife had parked her Jeep on the lift expecting an oil change and reporting a squeaky noise in the driver side front wheel. Squeak turned out to be a bad wheel bearing which meant replacing the spindle. Normally not a bad job for me to do, but the rust gremlins had welded the old nuts tighter than David Bowie's jeans, so long story short the Cutlass is still sitting in the bay and it will be Sat. or Sun. before I can get to it. I'll have to report the outcome later. Thanks guys, and happy holidays to all. Tom
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Assuming your 66 has the original frame mounts, you need Anchor P/N 2261 motor mounts, or equivalent. By the way, the 403 is externally identical to the 330 that your car was born with.
Joe, I sure appreciate your time reading my question and your very informative response. I plan on effecting the repairs this week. I'll let you know how it comes out. Thanks for giving me such great information. Godspeed, Tom
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In the time your vehicle was manufactured, it was somewhat common for the rubber part of the motor mount to delaminate from the metal on either side of it, on the driver's side of the car. It's possible that the later versions of those mounts have a "fail safe" link in them to limit engine movement/torque reaction should the rubber fail.
Nice car with an "incognito upgrade" for the engine! Please keep us posted on your progress.
Just some thoughts,
NTX5467
And YES, Today when I examined the engine on the lift I could see the rubber was totally destroyed. So, thanks to you and Joe I'm on my way to getting a satisfactory repair completed. I was also very glad to learn that the 403 was pretty much a 330 in disguise so far as looks go. That is really kind of neat to know. Everyone here is just great to share their knowledge. Father time has taken most of my friends over the years ... so at this time of year its particularly nice to have new friends show up to take the time to help you out. Bill, and Mark, and Brady knew all this stuff but unfortunately they took their knowledge with them. I didn't get interested in working on cars till I turned sixty-five, so I'm having to ask questions that most probaly think silly. I try to research stuff before I ask, so as not to look too totally stupid, but sometimes I just need some help even framing the question. Godspeed, ya all made my day brighter, and my car run better. How cool is that? Tom
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Wow! Problem solved with the p/n # even.....thanks. The help I have rec'd here has been nothing short of extraordinary. I do so appreciate the help. Its just great to have people share thier knowledge and time. People I most likely will never get to thank face to face. None the less, I do appreciate what I consider a most generous gift. so THANK YOU, Tom
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MY SITUATION: I recently bought a 1966 Cutlass Covertible for a driver, not a show car; I can't sit still long enough for shows. This 66 cutlass came to me with a mid 70's (1974 I think) 403 motor installed that runs quite nicely. It seems well suited to the transmission, is pretty easy on gas, starts every time, and happily burns today's junk gas without complaint.
MY PROBLEM: I do notice that the motor torques up when I accelerate quickly, so I am going to assume I have a motor mount problem.
MY STUPID QUESTION IS: Assuming the mounts weren't properly installed by the previous owner, should my primary concern be finding motor mounts that are a perfect fit for the engine or a perfect fit for the frame? Or by some quirk of fate might I actually expect to find mounts that will work without alteration or welding? I figure asking here is the wisest course of action since I usually get pretty good advice. Obviously I'm a green horn learning as I go, so any and all advice is appreciated.
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The prices are not from an on line guide. They are from a paper magazine bought in a store for $6.99. Available wherever fine car magazines are sold.
By the way if the plated trim is worn or pitted, the paint not too good etc. then it is not a #2 and probably not a #3 so the prices I quoted are too high.
I WANT TO THANK EVERY ONE FOR THEIR IMPUT ON THIS THREAD. Having listened to all of you and argued with some of you .....in the end I heard you well and decided to pass on the car we were considering to buy. Some have said that scarcity isn't important that its just demand, but to my experience short supply coupled with demand is what drives price. In this case, we learned there were several tens of thousands more units manufactured than we had been given initial reason to believe. The car itself is fine, it's not a show car, but it wasn't represented to be one. It could be elevated to show car status with attention to details, but that was never my interest. I prefer to own a car, enjoy it, perhaps improve it a bit, and then pass it along to the next custodian. If any profit at all is realized then I consider the car to have been a good investment. I will not use the word "investment" on this site again. LOL Again I thank you each and every one for all your imput. Your thoughtful participation made our final decision to pass on this vehicle a bit less traumatic.
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Old Cars Price Guide says #2 $16,450 #3 $10,580. #3 is a good driver, #2 is real nice capable of winning some shows but not perfect. So $14,000 is in the ballpark.
Thanks Rusty I appreciate the effort you made to find me some kind of useful evaluation...I could not get the on-line guides to work. Most on-line guides I've found don't go back to the 1920's and I really wanted to avoid making a huge buying mistake. I obviously like this car or I wouldn't be asking about it. It's just a cool look and the nostalgia of driving it should be a real hoot. Please remind me never to use the word, "investment" on this site again.. LOL... I has been schooled.
My mother and this car are the same age, so I think it should be a great lark having them get together for a trip to the DQ on Sunday afternoons.
Again, thanks for giving me some numbers to hang my hat on. Muscle cars I know, but Grandpa's cars are out of my comfort zone. I have never seen another one of these around this part of the country, so I think it will be fun to drive to the fairs, drive-ins, etc. I can't sit still long enough to go to a car show as a participant, but maybe my son or grandsons will enjoy doing that. I'm really not a trophy kind of guy. Thanks for helping me out. I feel better.
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Akejama,
The Pre-War Studebakers that hold their value are the open model Presidents, especially the 1931 President Four Season roadsters.
I notice you own the car you are extolling, so I'll accept your imput as expert.
I read carefully and appreciate all your comments, particularly the one about getting nickle plating done on the bright works. I will certainly use nickel instead of chrome. However, with 40+ years of experience, painting is something I do quite well, A couple of gallons of Lucite with my new brush and she'll look just fine.*grin*
Thanks for your time and thoughts.
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akemjama,
You will find MOST owners buy for the enjoyment of the hobby, not to make money. Are you going to enjoy owning and driving that car, or are you planning to just hold it for investment potential?
John
Well John, nobody enjoys riding in old cars more than me, but all the guys I try to buy from seem to think price is pretty darn important. Banks are paying 1% right now, so buying an old car that is a good value seems to make sense to me as both an investment and entertainment. I readily admit I have limited resources so I have to spend them with care. So, I came here to get some valued opinions before I spend several thousand dollars on a car I'm really not that knowledgable about. Thanks for yours.
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So, even though they were a best seller when new, they may be rarer than the closed cars today. Also everything now is vice versa, the open cars are popular with collectors and demand higher prices than sedans.
On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being best I'd say this car is a 10 as a driver, but maybe a 7 as a show car. Does $14K sound like a high price for a very very good driver? Not to put you on the spot or anything... hehe The car drives very well, the paint job has some minor flaws (mostly orange peel) and some of the chrome shows some light pitting, but really the car seems to be in fantastic condition with a wonderful leather interior. It runs and drives quite well with no mechanical problems that I could discern.
I know price is a function of a lot of considerations but maybe I could get a few general comments from readers about their opinions on the investment potential of a 25 Duplex Phaeton, like "poor risk" "good potential" "run for cover!" "buy" "don't buy" . This is about a 10 year old restoration and the car has been very well kept. I like it, but the scarcity factor is a total unknown to me and I would think that important in making a buying decision. So, I do appreciate any information shared with me.
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Based on the serial number, it would appear that there were 81,999 Standard Six’s built in all body styles in 1925. How many Duplex Phaeton’s? That would require additional research in the Studebaker archives.
Thanks, thats a lot of information that I didn't know and appreciate having. I found one unsupported magazine article that puts the 1925 production number at around 200 units, but that seems pretty low even by 1925 standards.
The seller is claiming the car is rare and is offering it at a price slightly under $14k. In my opinion its certainly a very, very nice driver with show car potential. I think some minor attention to both the chrome and paint job might be required to take it to the next level. It drives quite well which is more important to me than showing the car. I just don't want to put myself into a bad investment value position from the very start. If the car isn't rare then I should probably pass on it in favor of another model. Its very hard to find any meaningful values listed for this car. I'd certainly welcome any comments or opinions.
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I am considering buying a 1925 standard six Studebaker Duplex Phaeton. I'd like some help in determining just how rare this car is or isn't. It seems Studebaker produced 133,104 autos in 1925 but I would like to find out how many were Duplex Phaetons. Any help or direction would be appreciated.
Thanks Tom in Indiana
..right! So, please don't beat up on me for posting here where I always have gotten good advice.
Help! interior vinyl molding
in Oldsmobile - Technical
Posted
I have looked high and low for the vinyl interior trim molding for a 1965 Jetstar 88 rear window. I'm looking for the original vinyl or any kind of a substitute vinyl trim suitable for that interior. I'd like burgundy but I'm willing to paint whatever I can find to match. If you have a source or found some unique way to overcome the problem of crumbling vinyl trim molding around the windows please let me know. I don't know but I imagine I could use 88 olds vinyl or maybe something from another GM model. Anyone with knowledge please to share with me. I am lost.
Thanks, Tom in Indiana
PLEASE DO NOT MOVE THIS INQUIRY TO THE "BUY IT" PAGES SINCE ALL I EVER GET IS A HUNDRED OR SO SCAM EMAILS FROM FOREIGN COUNTRIES THAT HAVE EVERYTHING I WANT IN ABUNDANCE. They don't even know what a Jetstar 88 looks like.