macc
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Posts posted by macc
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DOes the A/C system operate seperatly from the heating system or do these two work together? The reason why I ask is I'd like to get my A/C system up and running for this summer if I can. Here in California I dont have much need for a heater and seeing how much of a pain in the butt it is to swap out the heater core I was hopeing they worked independent of eachother.
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The funny thing is the time to call - between 11pm and 6am! :eek:
Mike
I know right and what's up with the last pic
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Fresh coat of paint and some new shoes!
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1
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Got an update? Did you get the seat out?
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Has anyone replaced the wire connecting to the float? It's a solid copper wire I'm assuming it needs to be replaced with another solid wire. I tried to do a search but didnt get any results.
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I got lucky mine popped off with a screwdriver. Just a lil pressure and pop
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I've been watchin this thread, My seat doesn't move at all so I know it's gotta come out. Good luck :thumbsup:
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I had a 60 Starliner that had a Badly cracked steering wheel I used some epoxy resin and it worked great! Drove it for years never had it crack on me. I'd say try to fix it first nothing looks better then a restored stock wheel. IMO
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No.
But you want to plug the return line under the hood so that gas vapors don't travel up there.
Ok I'll plug it up thanks. I failed to mention that upon closer inspection the wire off the dist. going to the coil had been taped up. I figured this was because the wire must be deteriorating, and might be the source of my problem. So I'm going to see if I can replace the wire and hopefully wont have to take the dist. out to do so. I dont know how hard that is going to be but we'll see.
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Ok yeah its an a/c car any I have a glass filter on it as well. So is nothaving the return line hooked up gnna cause me any problems?
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Ok here's a lil update. I still havent gotten the car to run straight but I've been going through the whole system making sure everything is in good working order. I changed out the fuel pump, put a new coil and plugs (the existing ones were fouled up) The cap rotor points and plug wires all looked good. I dropped the fuel tank yesterday and going to get cleaned out at a local radiator shop. So while the tank is out I'm going to just replace all the fuel lines from tank to motor. I followed the return line from the tank sending unit up to the engine bay but it wasnt connected to anything. I'm not sure if it needs to be hooked up or not or where. Maybe this is part of my issue. Hopefully after the tank gets cleaned and with new lines she'll run better
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Yeah I was watching it for a few months on there every time it was relisted the price dropped! It was a drive to go get it took me 3 hours from Sacramento but it was a hell of a deal I didnt pay near what he was asking for it. The paperwork was straight on it too, a lien sale but I didnt even have a problem registering it. It only cost me $1 to get my tittle and plates!!
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Yep same guy
Thats great to hear I deff need a few parts! ThanksWelcome macc. You must be the same guy from the boulevardos site,right? Sac isn't too far from Russ at Centerville autorepair. Great guy and our local expert. Look him up for parts and questions. Your also in the same city as the Buick bonery. Mike has plenty of buick parts. -
Thanks I'll try that this weekend. I dont have much tools at the time just basic hand tools. I'm working on buyin everything AGAIN! That's what happens when you get divorced the wife takes all the tools lol. But I can still check on spark without a multimeter and I have an air compressor so I can blow the lines out as well.
First things first before you start randomly replacing parts...check for spark immediately after experiencing engine shutdown. If you have spark most likely your problem is fuel related. This initial and easy test eliminates 50% of the possible problems (or more!).If your problem is fuel related it sounds like the filter in the tank pickup (commonly called a sock) is clogged. Try running the fuel pump supply hose from a 5 gallon gas container to bypass the fuel system from the tank forward-be careful! If you find you have isolated the problem a quick fix is to blow compressed air back thru the fuel lines into the tank-remove the gas cap to keep from pressurizing the tank and dont light up a smoke while standing over the filler neck. This will blow away any debris from the pickup tube inlet. Warning-this may also blow off the pickup filter, especially if it is restricted. This may be a problem for the particular but if you are running another filter I have found this does no harm. Did this dozens of times with $50 beaters when I was a kid and it is fast and works! Generally, by the time I ended up with said beaters, there was an all new fuel and ignition system with a few discarded paper carb filters laying about under the hood! Good luck, and welcome to the club!
Tom Mooney
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Yeah a shop manual will be a big help! $30 a year thats not bad I'll have to go check that out thanks for the advice!!
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Nope no electronic ignition. The cap rotor points and condenser all look new. I changed the fuel filter last week and its one of the clear ones so I can see if its clogged. I'll have to try the gas cap thing. I just adjusted the floats and got a base line. But it wont stay idling longer then a few min it just cuts out and dies. Almost like you turned the key off
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I'm guessing tht stands for Riviera Owners Association lol. Whats that all about?
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And so the questions begin lol. So I just picked up this 63' a few weeks ago and have been trying to get her running smoothly ever since. When I bought the car it started up and drove just fine but after about 5 min on the road she starts sputtering and dies. She'll crank over and over but wont fire up again until it sits for about 10 mins. So I dragged her home and started cleaning her up I took the carb apart and rebuilt it installed new gaskets and the steel heat disapator. ALso she got a new fuel filter and battery. I tuned the carb the best I could (carb tuning has never been my forte) I took her for a drive around the block and still the same thing she wont make it all the way around the block without dying. Now it will run just fine in the begining of the trip and in the garage but the problem seems to be when its in gear and upon acceleration. I've tried tuning it up a few diff times and test drove but still the same outcome. I end up walking home walking back to car and she fires up and drives normaly home lol . It wants to run under her own conditions hahaha. Anyone have any ideas? Here's a few pics so you can see what I'm working with. The motor aint pretty lol
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Hahaha I know right it's beautiful out but a freezing (for us Cali ppl lol) 46 out. I'm trying to get some outside pics but I need to get her running good enough to pull her out lol. I'm glad to hear about all the knowlege on here I deff will be picking some brains with several questions I can forsee it now haha
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Hello everyone my name is Mac I'm new here from Sacramento. I recently picked up a new project a 63' Riviera. I've had it about 2 weeks now. Just been trying to get it running smooth. ANd leaning as much about these old Buick's as I can. Here's a pic of the old girl
A/C heater system
in Buick Riviera
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Oops yeah its a 63' Ok cool so it is possible to run just the a/c. Thanks guys!!