vermontboy
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Posts posted by vermontboy
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Whenever one person is given absolute authority to destroy a thread things can go wrong. Think back to when Steve destroyed that long, wonderful thread that several members had contributed great information to. Different circumstances but the same problem. Wouldn't it make sense to have at least two responsible parties to have to agree before any total removal and destruction of a thread occurred?
It is one of the reasons I am still sitting on the fence as far as membership renewal is concerned. Family membership goes back to 1960 or 1961. My own membership started in 1971 I believe and has had gaps but fairly consistent the last few years. But the constant renaming, moving and now removing of threads has pretty much destroyed the fun part the forum provided and thus I am beginning to question my support. Local club activity in our area has all but disappeared as far as shows go. The weekly cruise ins are not the same. Sad.
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If they are too large in diameter (think Boston) entry and exit at speed can be a bit daunting if you are trying to read the exit signs to tell where to get off - going around again and trying to get your bearings is the best solution.
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When we bought paint for my dads Pierce Arrow back in 1961 I remember that Ditzler Nitrocellulose Black was $7 per gallon. You didn't need a spray booth back then either. You could vacuum up the overspray.
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On 10/22/2022 at 8:08 PM, StanleyRegister said:
If I had driven it through 48 PA winters, there would likely be rust issues, unless I had been meticulous about the underside. Although nowadays it seems like I could also buy just about any body panel that was lost that way.
If you had driven it through 48 Central New York winters you would have replaced the structure a couple of times, not just the outer body panels. - no matter how careful you were. Whenever i see "restored? early Mustangs around here I am amazed at those where nothing is square. The rear quarters droop or or are in or out along the length of the body. Rockers are patched. Panel gaps you could dirve a truck through.
And I sympathize - I bought a new Plymouth Valiant in 1970 and in less than two years the tops of the front fenders rusted through. But 48 winters around here is almost a fantasy. I do know of a friend of the family who literally brushed and sprayed the underside of his 62 Chrysler with oil every fall - it looked awful and made repairs messy but that did seem to work for over 10 years until mechanical repairs became a bit much (he "drove it like he stole it" - former P38 pilot)..
No car is indestructible in the Northeast - the tinworm wins....
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Not all work done back in the day was done by craftsmen - posted this back in 2019 to show this kind of thing has been going on a long time. Sorry for the repost.
All of this is nothing new - when I was a kid I bought a copy of Classic Cars and Antiques by Gottlieb and Bowman (1952) - I was fascinated by a chapter on how to buy a classic car - just one example - lots of cobbed up details.
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Why don't you provide a direct link to the ad rather than requiring a potential purchaser to jump through hoops just to view it like everyone else does. I don't play games.
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Those of us coming of age in the 60’s witnessed the birth or expansion of so many kinds of music- one of which was the anti-war/protest songs. So many of the creators have been forgotten by the younger generation. A small scattering of names include Dylan, Baez, Phil Ochs, Judy Collins, Richie Havens, Pete Seeger, Woody and Arlo Guthrie, Peter, Paul and Mary, and etc.
My own favorite version is a young Joan Baez singing “With God on our Side” written by Dylan when they were together, I like the soft touch of her version better than the Newport Jazz Festival duet recording of 1963.
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Clapton's 70th birthday with Joe Bonamassa (Utica NY native - saw him when he was 12 at the UC pub - he'd already opened for BB King)).
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Have you ridden in or driven this "car"? You may find that you wouldn't want to go more than 20 mph in it.
If you actually plan to take it out on a road how comfortable are you with holding up traffic? How comfortable are you sitting up high unprotected by anything and with no way to brace yourself? How comfortable are you with an approaching car and a closing speed of 55-60 mph (20 + 35/40)? While mulling these thoughts over take a look at the placement of the tiller and think about what happens when you "launch" with even a minor accident.
If those don't at least make you a little bit anxious go for it !
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"what’s the going rate for full paint work these days $?"
Seriously, anywhere from $5-8K (may be higher depending on the condition of "surface rust" and what else they may find) for a mask and spray up to as much as you want to spend if you want the trim and glass removed. And what color - that makes a difference. If it's gloss black one person's "super straight" might be a couple of weeks worth of work to a bodyman who is going to sign his name to the results.
Do you have a budget ? Do you want a 10 footer, a decent finish for a daily driver or a show car finish. The more you tell us the more useful the answers will be. Pictures would help.
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I owned a SAAB 96 2 cycle - an incredible amount of fun on dirt. Right hand alternating between shift lever and handbrake - do not let your thumb slip off the emergency brake button. . Great fun car. Shock towers rust out, clutch cable stop in firewall rusts out.... and more, unfortunately.
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Have you checked the timing, both at idle and at higher rpm to make sure the advance is working. As others have stated - top speed of 38 mph doesn't make sense unless something is drastically wrong.......
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What happened to the "Milestone" designation ?? Haven't heard it used in a few years (maybe decades)
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If you think about as a daily driver (second car) it makes sense - just had the heater hoses replaced on my 2008 Grand Caravan (bad arthritis) - hoses were $140 each plus 1-1/2 hours labor. Even with the arthritis I could replace the heater hoses on this one - even have enough left over from the last heater hoses I replaced on a beater.... Flathead Mopars are a sweet motor.
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I've owned/driven a lot o 30' through 60's car over the last 60 years and helped friends work on a lot more I've developed some rules I follow.
Rule number one is if the car is to be driven frequently and you are not planning on a full mechanical restoration always assume that the previous owner did all the simple things and if it just needs a tune up it will "just need a tune up" until you perform some major diagnostic and repair work. I always assume that it will never run or drive better than the day I test drive it until I spend a few hundred hours and dollars or end up selling t because it still "just needs a tune up"
There are exceptions - depends on how lucky you feel.
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I had a Mode;; "A" Sport Coupe that I was told was an "A" block with a Model "C" head (3 bolt water pump). This was back in the early 60's
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I think the only legitimate use of the word relative to a car is one where decades of care and waxing have worn the paint thin on curves and edges, sometimes down to the primer on sharp edges. But never rusty.
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If you have space available a parts car (or chassis, or motor) is always a good investment - OK usually a good investment. And always stop at interesting looking garage sales - I picked up a Stromberg 97 carb with a rebuild tag on it labelled "washing machine motor?" for $5 and an old rusty Stanley multiplane with a full set of blades for $2 at the same garage sale a few years back.... you never know.
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Tells us absolutely nothing to enable us to help you. I am absolutely done playing games.
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1 hour ago, StylishOne said:
I’ve owned n know enough about cars to know is valuable.. So what it is isn’t important, I’m asking if I’m ruining anything, or lessening it’s value .. what are the rules ? What do old car buyers think?What it is is VERY important as far as loss of value. A 30's full classic or a 50's resto-mod are a world apart in loss of value. You also state the car is all original - depending on what it is even repainting in the original color may reduce the value. Do you plan on a total repaint or just the one color. Too many variables to even begin to guess.
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I will take a stab at $95
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Try to google the business, "Mike" by his full name, the email address, the phone number, and any other piece of information provided. Legitimate businesses want to be found.
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What type of bodywork has to be done? What quality of bodywork and paint are you looking for? What is your anticipated budget for the work and is there any specific time frame you need the project completed in ?
Those make a huge difference in what type of shop you need to look for.
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I know I teased y'all a couple of weeks ago. New aquisition - 67 Valiant
in General Discussion
Posted
My 70 Valiant ( bought new) had a blue 225. Rust was awful here in the salt belt - the tops of both front fenders rusted through in two years (through - not bubbles). I opted for the 4 pistons per caliper disc brakes - they were not made for salt water spray in the winter and had to be rebuilt every other year. But mechanical the drivetrain was bullet proof.