bepnewt
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Posts posted by bepnewt
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Sounds good. Bring that Boattail by and we can take them to the Cruize Night together!
Word from a coworker is he spotted another white one about a mile from my house in a commercial parking lot. I'm going to swing by there now and then to see if I can spot it.
Hey Broken Arrow, I grew up in Mayberry, er uh, I mean Muskogee. All my family is in Tulsa now, so when I'm up there I'll keep my eyes open for a white 64 Riv! -
Poifect!
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Did you look up the codes? Computer will shut the cruise off for safty!
I show CODE 22 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Low Reading
Also CODE 43 - Electronic Spark Timing Circuit (EST)
Both would cause a sevice engine light would get it looked at before it fails
I doubt this has any bearing on your situation, but wanted to throw it out just in case. My '04 T-Bird would put itself in "cripple mode" ( something like that ) once in a while. Usually when accelerating hard. Sometime when taking off from a light rather easily. Wrench light would come on and the car would act like it's running on 2 cylinders.
It was out of warranty so I took it to a mechanic and one of the codes he got off of it was the TPS sensor was messed up. He also got some other conflicting codes that pointed elsewhere. In the end, after replacing some non-defective parts, the car was taken to Ford and they had to "reflash the computer" and it fixed whatever the problem was.
-BEPNewt
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PM Sent.
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A good glass repair shop can stop the crack from continuing. They actually drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack, then fill it with their repair resin. This stops the crack from going further. Actaully works this way in heavy steel, too. Cracks spread due to drastic teperature changes. The car shut up in the garage for a few days shouldn't change the temperature enough to make the crack spead any further.
Good to know, thanks. That alleviates my anxiety over the next week. Crossing my fingers that a cold snap doesn't hit Oklahoma while I'm in Colorado.
Yeah. Right...
-BEPNewt
ps. Do you have an interest in a '68 Wildcat that's sitting in OKC, Steve? It's a project car. PM me if you do or know someone in the area that may.
Some quick pics I took with my phone:
https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/18735195/1/JT%2068%20Wildcat?h=c46c59
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I just checked Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market Surprising to me there are some listed there...
Thanks for the link!
-BEPNewt
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Brian,
As far as I know they can repair bullseye type chips which helps prevent the chip from turning into a crack. In your case its already cracked so not sure if a repair to the epicenter will keep it from cracking more but its worth calling a shop to make sure.
The windshield being older shouldn't prevent them from using the same techniques to repair.
Thanks for the info. We're leaving for vacation the second I get home so the car is going to sit with this crack for 8 days. I really hope it doesn't get any bigger while we're gone.
I read some other threads about windshields and if I understand correctly there were / are some repop ones made, although not USA made and possibly without the blue tint stripe. I'm definitely not ready to get this fixed now ( unless it gets a lot worse ) but I am open to hearing approximate prices for new glass and places I should look when it's time. I don't see any on eBay right now or at Cars, Inc.
Also, is it the same front glass in all first gens?
Thanks, guys. Major downer.
-BEPNewt
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I have a cracked windshield, now. Is there any reason with these older windshields why having one of those windshield fixing people won't work? I just want it patched for now until I can deal with getting some new glass.
In case details will help... it has a tiny chip near the bottom in the middle and the crack goes down the the bottom from there and about 2 inches upwards. It's too dark to get a pic right now.
-BEPNewt
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Thank you for the great job on the photos. It really looks good. Lee Waldren
You're welcome. If you need help with the Lincoln photos, I can help with those, too.
-BEPNewt
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The seller didn't show you what's under the trunk mat nor did he say anything at all about the condition of the floor boards. My $.02.
He did make a quick mention of this - it was the first thing I looked for since I got blindsided by a rusty trunk with my purchase. IN the second paragraph:
"The floor boards, trunk and all the typical rust-prone areas are completely solid and rust-free and the car has no signs of any accidents..."
Even though he says it's devoid of rust, he doesn't include a pic of the trunk metal. If he knows for certain the trunk is absent of rust, then he must have pulled the trunk mat up so ask him to pull it up again and take a picture of it for you.
I bought a "rust-free" Cali car and it is very devoid of rust - except the trunk is pretty bad as you can see here:
http://forums.aaca.org/f177/need-new-trunk-methinks-299324.html
There's a "before" pic at the top of the thread and some other pics after grinding out a lot of the rust later in the thread. It's not too bad, but it definitely adds more money into the mix, along with time and tools.
The dents in the rear panel sure make me wonder how it can have no signs of any "accidents", unless it was perhaps done on purpose? Probably not.
It's still a good-looking ride, for sure.
-BEPNewt
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Thank you both; that's enough information for me to get the job done, now.
-BEPNewt
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Here are the 3 pics. I reduced them by 50% and took some of the yellow out, although I didn't get it all.
Remember, this is the OP's car, not mine. I'm just posting the pics for him.
-BEPNewt
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Actually you have a STV valve in your 64. I just replaced mine with a bypass from Old Air Products and it make all the difference in the world. The only issue is is it on max on all the time but around here that is not an issue.
Bill do you mind elaborating on what exact parts you bought and what you had to do to make it all work? I see in this thread where you did the changeover:
http://forums.aaca.org/f177/air-conditioner-recharge-304246.html
from the R134-adjusted STV you messed with here:
http://forums.aaca.org/f177/c-stv-valve-234016.html
I'm not concerned with original looks, only with cold-blowing air. I will want it to run on R134. Any information you can provide on this bypass valve installation is appreciated. I'll be passing the info on to the mechanic doing the work for me.
Thanks,
-BEPNewt
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Linda and I drove home from Branson, and did some sight seeing along the way. Had the windows down the entire trip. It rained a little Thursday night and the weather was great on Friday. Actually, the weather was unseasonably great for the Ozark Mountains in June.
It was too bad I didn't have Friday off and Kit had a 7:30am appointment or we could have stayed the night. We were going to try to leave by 8pm, but the fates were against us and we were the very last table to get in line for the food. We sat in the very back so we wouldn't disrupt people when we left and that bit us in the behind. Murphy at his finest! We got home about 1am and were quite tired since we didn't sleep well the night before.
Really enjoyed the trip, albeit a short one. Really glad we got to meet a handful of the AACA / ROA folks.
-BEPNewt
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Rob we are having trouble uploading the pictures. Maybe they are more than 2000 pixels and do not know how to reduce them.
PMing you my email address so you can mail them to me and I'll get them uploaded for you if you'd like.
-BEPNewt
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'64 Riv, transplanted 401 that's been rebuilt less than 1k miles ago.
The liquid in my radiator is a little rusty so I'd like to get it out and some fresher stuff in there.
Assuming there's nothing wrong with the radiator, is this as easy as draining it from the bottom and adding about 50/50 water/coolant in the top? Seems to me that some will still be in the block that way, though.
For someone with no specialty tools, what's the best way for me to do this?
Thanks,
-BEPNewt
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Ditto, thanks. I missed this the first time around and really appreciate the fact that you included good pictures for us to look at. My dash will eventually be replaced and seeing this gets me one step closer.
-BEPNewt
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I have a 66 Riv with what I call Plum interior. What is the correct name of that color? I need to get some matieral for the front arm rest.
There was a nice Plum/Plum '67 (?) at the ROA meet in Branson last month. Here's a pic of it:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5302/5870207605_4506e5f74f_o.jpg
And a link to all the pics:
ROA Meet 2011 Branson, MO - a set on Flickr
The ROA site lists "Plum" for the interior for both 1966 and 1967.
In '66, it looks like the colors were called Plum for both the exterior and interior, according to the ROA site, and Riviera Plum/Plum for the exterior/interior (respectively) for '67. This site contradicts this:
1967 Buick Paint Color Codes - Buick Paint Cross-Reference
and has it reversed with '66 having "Riviera Plum" for exterior and '67 having "Plum".
Which one is correct for the exterior color name?
-BEPNewt
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That horn bar is amazing.
Mine doesn't look so good on the front. I need to look at the back and see how bad it is.
-BEPNewt
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Very, very pretty. It's amazing how a car can change my opinion of a color. I don't like blue or gold and now that I've seen Rivs in both, I'm liking them.
-BEP
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So as Ed stated, this year Best of Show was determined differently. The 8 person team selected for counting ballots were also the judges for Best of Show. The team looked at the car(s) with the most votes and then compares their own observations and picks a winner. In this case the vote leader was overwhelming and an easy decision for the judges. If there had been 2 or 3 cars close in total votes, then the team would have picked the winner among themsleves. This decision would be more objective based on overall condition vs what looks pretty to the casual observer. Because of this, the winner may not always be the car with the single most votes on the ballots.
It was nice meeting you and your wife. Wish we had more time to chat.
Thanks for clarifying further. Kit and I discussed this on the drive home from Branson and came to the conclusion that if it were just based on the car with the highest number of votes then it was a potentially flawed system. It's good to hear that you guys have really put an effort into the judging.
Thanks for making us feel welcome. It's always interesting going to something like this where you don't really know anyone, especially on just the last day after everyone has settled in.
-BEPNewt
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GREAT pics, Jayson. Thanks.
When I saw Al Schmidts Coral Mist factory dual quad car Monday night when we got there, I knew it would probably win best of show and that it did with an overwhelming popular vote. It sure was pretty. Congrats Al!I instantly fell in love with that car. Coral Mist is on the list of colors I want to paint my '64, but my wife says I "can't pull it off."
I wondered how "Best in Show" was voted on since I didn't see it on the ballot. Al's was my favorite with quite a few right there behind it. What a slew of gorgeous cars. I gained an appreciation for other category Rivs that I hadn't really paid much attention to before.
I missed the announcements of the winners since we had to leave after dinner on Thursday. Will they posted anywhere? The Riview or on the ROA site, maybe?
-BEPNewt
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Nice pics. I tell ya, I'm quite partial to Al's (?) Coral Mist 'Riv.
We left our nice DSLR camera at my brother's house a week ago so all I had was the bad camera on my phone. I took a lot of pics, but they aren't that good. Hopefully they'll hold people over until someone posts up some good pics.
https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/18735195/1/2011%20ROA%20Meet%20-%20Branson?h=1c9971
I think there are 3 pages of pics. The link to switch pages should be at the bottom.
-BEPNewt
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Welcome to the forums and to the ROA!
Very nice choice of rides.
-BEPNewt
Location PLEASE
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I'd do a search on this forum for "tires" and you'll find a lot of discussion on tires that will fit and also some on different whitewall styles, stripe width, factory-correctness, etc. There's great threads on here re: wheels and tires.
If you have any questions on specific tires, etc., crank up a new thread or find one that applies and reply in that one so we don't hijack this one any more.
-BEP