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1933Mopar

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Posts posted by 1933Mopar

  1. Hi I'm Benny I got what's left of a '51 Dodge Sportabout....i'm just going to use 18 gauge cold rolled and got me self a bead roller, a brake,and shear that can do straight cuts..and I'm just going to fab them..if you're building something that's going to be judged i doubt they'll tare the car apart

    like they looking for coke..so if they are a little different I wouldn't worry about it..and I don't know if you ever done floor pans before but a tip i pass on is do it while the car is on it's spring weight..not up in the air. Good luck and welcome! benny

  2. That's owned by DBC members John & Lin Bieback (who's DB isn't back together yet) and was the lead car in our 2-car caravan...because it's equipped with GPS.

    I saw the rear end of that car for 3 days of driving to and 2 days of driving home from the meet. Over 1,500 miles round trip!

    WoW that's like a lot of fun! I got a '28 Model A but before I build it I gots to do my '33 Chrysler first..so I'll be driving a mopar to a lot of Ford events:) Benny:cool:

  3. if I were you..I wouldn't worry too much yet about that motor, if it were me ( and I did this with my straight 8 in my '33 chrysler) I wouldn't tear apart the engine yet, so long as a rod isnt going through it..that might be a good sign, first thing I'd do is pull the spark plugs and pour a teaspoon of ATF or Marvel mystery oil down each

    spark plug hole..let it soak for a couple days, get a hand crank or racket or what ever to see if it can turn by hand, if you can get it to turn by hand,good sign, next if you hear the compression that a good sign too, then get a new set of spark plugs..and you don't have you go to a specialty store to get them, i got my plugs for my '33 Chrysler at shuck's..14mm autolites..then get battery cables, battery, file the points and gas down the carb..and your engine might be just fine, check to see if it's got oil in it. Be leave it or not my '33 Chrysler sat for 40+ years..and it runs like a top..so you don't know until you check don't assume something is broke. that's how a lot of people who get burnt out cause they fix everything even things that don't need it..then they are out of money and patience. Good Luck! Benny

    btw I'm going on the assumption that the engine isnt all torn a part..if the heads off then yea..rebuild.

  4. if I were you..I wouldn't worry too much yet about that motor, if it were me ( and I did this with my straight 8 in my '33 chrysler) I wouldn't tear apart the engine yet, so long as a rod isnt going through it..that might be a good sign, first thing I'd do is pull the spark plugs and pour a teaspoon of ATF or Marvel mystery oil down each

    spark plug hole..let it soak for a couple days, get a hand crank or racket or what ever to see if it can turn by hand, if you can get it to turn by hand,good sign, next if you hear the compression that a good sign too, then get a new set of spark plugs..and you don't have you go to a specialty store to get them, i got my plugs for my '33 Chrysler at shuck's..14mm autolites..then get battery cables, battery, file the points and gas down the carb..and your engine might be just fine, check to see if it's got oil in it. Be leave it or not my '33 Chrysler sat for 40+ years..and it runs like a top..so you don't know until you check don't assume something is broke. that's how a lot of people who get burnt out cause they fix everything even things that don't need it..then they are out of money and patience. Good Luck! Benny

  5. Thanks, I keep going back and forth in my head as to weather to keep it or get away from cars. After more soul searching i have to admit to myself my name is Mark and im an addict.

    Glad to hear you are keeping her. If I remember right I think Robert's Motor Parts sells the rubber floor mat material. I'm in the same boat with my '33 Chrysler Ct I had to tare out the original rubber mat..but you can't make an omelet with out cracking some eggs. good luck Mark! Benny

  6. My '26 DB coupe looks very similar to Ford and Chevy Coupe about the same time period. Are there parts that are "interchangeable"? I mostly talking about the engine, carb, starter, generator, distributer, etc. Seems like you can easily get any part you need for a Ford. Did all car manufactures make their own engine block, pistons, rings, valves, etc or were they suppliers of certain components. I want to stay 'original' as much as possible but if I can't find, restore or make a part, I might have to go to a Ford part....or would that be heresy?

    I would suggest getting your self an interchange manual. Like for example my distributor cap on my '33 Chrysler Ct Royal eight is the same for early 50's Pontiac..I found that out buy getting an interchange manual. Check ebay that's were I got mine. Also if you are not all ready join the Dodge Brothers club, there is a lot of people in that club that can help you find the correct parts you need. Benny

  7. That's right, The US numbers don't match ours. We don't have a lot of choice too; one can buy 95 at every petrol station but 98 is very scarce since no modern car really needs it anymore and it is much more expensive (95 is about $9,20 per gallon where 98 is $9,95 per gallon) so no one buys it anymore. Except for rich people with Ferraris maybe. :P

    Sounds like they got you coming and got you going:rolleyes:

  8. here's something that might get the car going, take the idle screw out of the carb, either with compressed air or a can of carb clean spray it in the hole, when you're all done with that put the idle screw back in..just screw it in all the way then just back it out three times with the screw driver.

  9. I ordered spark plugs but the size was wrong. New ones will be in the shop on Monday. I got another suggestion from someone with an old Mopar: I should fill half the tank with RON98 in stead of only RON95. The latter contains 10% ethanol and is known to be more sensitive to cause vapor lock.

    Next week I hope to drive again...

    Over here in the states we have gas choices 87,89 and 92..(some areas it's 85,89,93) I know a lot of guys and I read a lot of guys having problems like yours. Now the 92 depending on the station (the really cheap stations will dilute with ethanol so more they dilute less taxes they pay, and kills your mileage so more you buy.) has less ethanol and cleaners that are good for the carb. So switching stations and switching grades might surprise you.

    There are some guys they get in this crab pot mentality that gas is just gas and low grade (85/87) is just fine and they don't won't to step up the extra $$ but they have no problem stepping up and paying the $$$ to rebuild carbs, fuel pumps etc...when they could have just not had the problem in the first place.

  10. I understand. My barn stetcher worked kind of funny last year, it was a barn shrinker and burned to the ground. That is what really pushed me to be done with cars. The price is very open to offers. I looked at the auction site, that is this car! I bought it of Ebay from a guy in Kansas. I do have copies of past titles from back in the 40's I kind of wondered were it came from. Now a little history is added. Thanks

    So sorry to hear about your fire. I collect a lot of periodicals and auction bills mainly cause I like to see were a car was in a certain time and who had it. I'm really envious that you've got to restore so many cars in your time. I just hope I could get my 6 cars done in 30 years. And I hope you get the bug again cause

    this hobby is like no other. Benny

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