ramair
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Posts posted by ramair
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1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:
Sold for $85,500! Holy crap!
The repaint just paid for itself.
Matt, I can’t believe whoever bought this car the first time had an issue with the color after he got it home, I mean most of us had to look away from the monitor so our eyes could adjust when we would check on the auction. My theory is that the buyer found a running or driving issue with the car. You and I both have experience with a uncooperative Twelve’s and if the cost of a complete paint would scare a potential buyer away from this car, just think how fast they would run with a engine that maybe has a little tap noise? Of course I could be wrong and perhaps the first BAT owner may have had a family emergency and needed to sell,
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8 hours ago, edinmass said:
With a splash system and a low pressure and low volume oil pump, making any changes is a risky endeavor. With a modern rebuilt engine everything is clean, and modern oils lubricate and create almost zero sludge, you’re much more likely to make failures than improvements. I see no advantage to try adding a filter to this car. Change your oil often and forget about it.
I would go with Ed on this one, besides the proverbial “Horses have already left”, on initial start up and break in when the engine was rebuilt you might have caught something . The risk verses reward of trying to bleed off already a limited supply of oil off the low pressure pump without starving the bearings , cam and timing gears, you would be guessing and praying that a little engine noise was not a self inflicted gun shot wound!
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I recently suffered a loss of my shop all its tools and equipment along with a 1916 Buick big six, if only my shop would have been equipped with
the fire suppression device that I have in another shed, all could have been saved
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My question would be which 455 are we talking about as other divisions other than Olds had that cubic inch and i believe that was all they had in common. I have owned 8 Oldsmobiles from the beginning of the 455 in 1968 to the end in 1976,
it is a engine that can be punished, I own a stock W-34 that at the factory pumped 400 horse, near 500# torque with 10.25 compression ratio, I also had a friend that had a GMC motorhome with high miles, punishment yes. Our local lake in the eighties had many jet boats powered by , you guessed it 455, still remember their roar!
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6 hours ago, arcticbuicks said:
not to be rude.....wy is this not under "Technical" ?
You are right, I should have started this thread in technical and failed to do so. I should have asked for help to move it
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I drove the Twelve 75 miles today and what an improvement, I would say it drove perfect except it has some 20 year old tires that has averaged 150 miles per year. I will change these out soon. I felt I could use them for the alignment as they had good even tread . Good news on the steering, I was concerned about not getting the castor to 1 degree as I wanted some return to center action, the car wants to return to center so it is not a fight after going around turns, I could live with it the way it is.
other good news is after we cleaned oil pan which was not sludged up and took off the tractor oil filter add on and put it back to stock we now have 60# oil pressure at highway speeds, 40 # at slow idle hot engine.
the cooling system on the car was in pretty good shape, the radiator free flows about 30 gallons in a minute, on hard pulls the car would run at 185, but since we put a reproduction coolant overflow tank and a factory replacement R-7 radiator cap which is a 4# cap with a vacuum valve to keep radiator full, also a complete tuneup, new wires, plugs, set timing, rebuilt carb and distributor now the car runs at 165 degrees on hard pulls. The reading above were taken yesterday after a 25 mile drive at 85 degree day.
only time temperature goes up a little is after a hard pull if I stop and let it idle at slow speed it climbs to 180 for a few minutes.
some on this forum might say that I am pushing the car to much as the speedometer is pointing to 60 mph. This car has Phil Hills 3:55 to 1 ring and pinion. I was a little concerned that it might be to high, but other than taking the car up a little faster in second gear before shifting into third it works well.
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4 hours ago, motoringicons said:
I like a 1909-1910 automobile with 34" x 4" tires, a 112" chassis, a 318 CID engine that is 4 1/2" by 5" and has an overhead valve, four cylinder!
Remember: "When Better Automobiles Are Built, Buick Will Build Them" !!!
I am a Buick fan also! They don’t have the cubic inches as some of the “Thumper” engines, but they are a much lighter car and even though the bigger Buicks sell for twice as much as the small ones, I would say that are 20 cents on the dollar compared to the big boy toys. I like the 318 ci four cylinder and I have owned 2 big 6 Buick 7 passenger touring model 55. One was a 1916 and it burned to the ground and the other is a 1915 that I still have. They are Buicks first 6 cylinder and it is 331 ci. I am aware that it would not qualify as a brass car, but they do have big wheels 36 x 4 1/2, long wheelbase 130” bore of 3.75 x 5”, it easily does 55 mph and I believe it will do more but why? This is the second year of the electric start and very easy to drive.
i have also driven a 1913 Oldsmobile model 53 and a Hudson six 54. These are all in the mid to upper middle price range, but for sure half the price of Pierce, early Packard, Stutz and I don’t even want to mention the rare and valuable
Simplex, ghosts and Nationals as they are beyond compare. Top engine is on my 1915, bottom picture is my 1916 before it burned down in my shop fire 2 years ago.
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2 hours ago, edinmass said:
100 grand here, 100 grand there......before you know it, it starts to add up to some money..........😇
That’s why you should get the car for free!
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7 hours ago, edinmass said:
Interesting…….especially the ride height. Hunter Alignment company owner is a world class pre war car collector and a judge at Pebble. Overall the car is reacting like it should…….with almost no wheel return. At least you know you’re in the ballpark and the car has no bad habits. I would expect that if the suspension is tight it will loosen up in less than 100 miles.
With some luck I expect to have some more miles on this weekend. If I think it is safe I will be taking it on the Earl C Anthony tour down on Highway 1 to Hearst Castle the following week. I will report back here and thank you Ed and everyone for suggestions and advice. Once again I learned more about the pre war era classic’s , how overly complex they are and over built, who would have “thunk” to use needle bearings in the front suspension? Of course the most valuable lesson I never seem to learn is 💸💸💸💸💸💸💸💸
even though Ed has been trying to teach me that there is no way to avoid it!
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15 hours ago, edinmass said:
Please put photos up of the car on the rack....I'm interested to see what they are going to use.........I also understand, many shops don't want photos taken of work in progress. With luck, we can see something. Ask for before and after measurements. I usually do two swings before and after just to be sure of results. I also do two swings when I am done adjusting the first side........Looking forward to your results. A test drive up to top speed you drive your car should be done BEFORE you load it to take it home......if you get death wobble, you want to find it ASAP.
Ed, a good idea, but unfortunately my son in law had other errands to run and when he got back the Packard was already down off the rack. He did take a few pictures of a modern car on the same rack. He also put 300# in front and 350# in rear which stayed in car for the whole alignment, note front height was down 7/16” and back was down 1 1/16” from factory specs.
Good news/ bad news on today’s alignment check, we solved the major issue with the bushings that were torn loose, however the shop owner was not happy with the rebound or reset of the suspension, he suggested rechecking after the newly rebuilt suspension wears in, he said he was speculating that it would get better, although he obviously has not done dozens of Packard twelves. Now that I have studied how this suspension works I believe that the tight suspension was what was responsible for giving me a different camber, castor and toe in after each test drive last week. The shop owner explained that when the car won’t go back to it’s standard riding height he has a trick to get the numbers close, he pushes the car and rolls it forward and back several times as far as he can on the rack this will relieve the pressure that could be forcing the tires against each other, then he attaches his instruments and takes the reading, basically we are pretty close to .06 positive camber, 1/8” toe in and unfortunately we ended up with .05 negative castor with 1 shim 1 degree in both sides. The question I was asked is if it is allowable to put in a extra shim as the manuals do not talk about that, the alignment guy was concerned that maybe the centering pin on the thrust brace may not allow for it and my concern is the tight distance between front tires and their to leading edge of front fender.So now I will go back over all pivot points and shock alignment to see if I can find the problem. In his opinion both sides are reacting the same. A list of things rebuilt or replaced is front shocks professionally rebuilt , lower arms, new bearings, shafts done set and shined for proper drag, king pins, bushings shined for proper drag, new center bearing, set for proper drag and all new stabilizer bushings. Car was test driven on various roads at 55 mph and it handled well and did not have any Death Wobble. Only negative is it only mildly wants to go back to center after a turn and I think we can detect the slow rebound of suspension which appears when you are driving straight and you hit a big chuckhole as it will want to drift for a couple of seconds and then as soon as it settles do it feels glued to the road
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Ed, Good to know, I was concerned about one wheel seems to have the wheel bolts recessed maybe a 1/8” farther in than the other three, I have a rim that served as a spare tire for my “parts car”, I will have that repainted Indian maroon and get it pinstriped, that should solve the issue. My son in law is leaving in a few minutes with our enclosed trailer and the Packard to deal with Bay Area traffic for its front end alignment. It’s going back to the shop that quickly found the problem last Thursday. I printed out the shop manual pages that you sent me as they explain about the castor shims that are tapered and how you rotate the thick side for more or less castor. I for the life of me can’t wrap my head around that as I would think just any increase would tip the bottom part of the wheel forward which would increase castor. Thank you again for your help and advice.
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I decided to go with metal shims for now, I picked up different types of rubber sheeting, soft plastic, hard plastic and canvas backed rubber conveyor belting, the only one that looks like it won’t distort and mush out was the hard plastic and it was not going to give at all so the only feature would be prevention of squeak in the future over metal. I have the measurements of the thickness I need and I am open to suggestions of what I should try, not a horrible amount of time to relieve a small amount of pressure to remove bolt.
On another note my lug bolts have a very small head and are worn and the wheels on the car which are thick and heavy have a slight amount of wear in the countersink area, not Wollowed out, question was anyone ever traded out the small headed lug bolts for the modern replacement which is one wrench size bigger and the head has the same angle beveled as original, but there is more surface ?
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4 hours ago, edinmass said:
It’s crazy issues like these altered replacement parts that can turn a simple three hour job into a 10-20 hour job, per side. Unfortunately sometimes the only answer is to slog and do the job several times till you get it correct. I had a similar type issue on a Duesenberg years ago……….we spent over two weeks getting it to align……….in the end, it was perfect and worth every minute of time. During the process we were miserable. It’s the 10,000 things like this that crop up on every total restoration you do that in the end drives you insane. At least, that’s my excuse for being nuts.
💸💰💸💰💸 =. 😡😡 = 🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃
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3 hours ago, alsancle said:
I just went through this with the brake shoes on our Cord. It took an extra 10 hours to figure out and fix something that should have been fine from the beginning.
💸💰💸💰💸 = 😡😡 = 🍷🍷🍷🍷🍷
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Does anyone have any ideas for a rubber, synthetic, polyurethane sheet? that
is about 1/4” thick that I could make a washer 1 1/16” ID and about 2 1/4” OD, I would still have to use a thin metal washer next to the bushing as it has a thin sharp shell that might be a cookie cutter on the rubber
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I found something interesting today that I did not notice before. The modern upper bushing replacement has slightly more exposed steel bushing on one side, granted it’s only a 1/16” longer . So as I go to install I think I will put the longer side towards the front which should help me achieve positive castor without a bunch of castor shims, not to mention it will give me a little more gap between front fender leading edge lip. Here are pictures of new bushings, I have been experimenting with different shims, still not happy with all metal, hope to find something to cushion it.
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On 5/6/2024 at 6:00 PM, nsbrassnut said:
I think Ed has covered the issues.
Here is some additional information that may help as back ground reference. Please accept this as information and suggestions. I have no first hand experience with the senior Packards unfortunately. But I have been running and maintaining my ’36 120 for over 40 years so I’m not completely naive on the smaller Packards. The 120 models were the first with the Packard Safe-T-Flex front suspension which was the basis for all of the Packard models from ’37 up to ’41 or ’42.
When I first got mine, I found out shortly after getting it running and on the road in an unrestored state and nearly running off the road during high speed run when it hit a rough spot and started to shake hard. Later when I inspected it closer the front end was seriously worn out after 70,000 miles of use.
The lower outer pin with the roller bearings wore the roller bearings square and the hardened pins looked like splines. And the shocks were empty and the control arms wobbled sideways from worn out bushings. I did a full front end rebuilt on it back in 1980. So, some of these notes may be out of date by now.
Anyway, more important comparison notes. The upper outer rubber bushing and bolt was actually two pieces of rubber, each with a flange and washer on the end between the upper arm and the vertical arm. At that time the reproduction parts kit consisted of two rubber half sections, center steel tube, washers and the center clamp bolt. It was challenging to get the new rubber compressed between the washers and into the shock arm to get the bolt in place. And then it had to be done more than once when the alignment was off and the early model required special metal offset bushings in the end of the outer upper arm to relocate the bolt and hinge point. Once set up though, it doesn’t move. Here is a picture of the upper outer on my ’36 120 after 40 years and several thousand miles of service for comparison.
The replacement bottom outer pin was made from a shortened king pin from something else wearing out 3 power hack saw blades to cut through the case hardening. Now days there are cut off discs that would slice right through it. The original loose needle bearings were replaced with the later semi caged version of Torrington needle bearing matched through a local bearing supplier. These are a big improvement; the needles are all held in the shell with the ends rolled over to hold the needles in place. No need to deal with loose individual rollers like the original.
The lower inner arm mounts are also rubber compressed in steel on a pin that is bolted to the frame. Those fail with time as well and allow the lower inner arm to move out of position. It was a while before replacements were available. I suspect that the twelve has similar lower inner rubber bushings also. If you haven’t already changed them as well, you may want to inspect them to ensure that they aren’t contributing to the problem. Mine had started to fail and one was moving off center by the time it finally got replaced.
About 6 years ago one shock failed and needed to be replaced. While it was apart I decided to check and change the Torrington needle bearings and lower pin again. The old ones were still in good shape visually. I was able to get new bearings from the bearing supplier quiet easily. But when I ordered a new lower outer rebuild kit from one of the major Packard parts suppliers, they had changed to using a pin and bronze bushing replacement design instead. This made the lower outer joint similar to the usual king pin and bushing design. I ended up changing mine over with the idea that it might last longer with the bronze bushings instead of needle roller bearings since there isn’t much movement and the same roller bearings end up taking the load essentially all the time. But you need to remember to grease them regularly too.
I looked through a copy of the junior Packard parts book and found an illustration of the upper outer connection on the shock arm. The picture below may help show the shape of the rubber bushing and pin design of this joint.
Then looked at two suppliers’ websites to see what is listed for Packards of this period. The major Packard parts supplier site information is a bit confusing. Rubber bushings similar to the original design are listed and pictured but only labeled with a part number, not what they are thought to fit or where. Then they also list other upper outer kits with different parts, some with two piece rubber bushing kits some with the compressed rubber with a steel outside, but no side rubber bushing (like the one pictured earlier here).
Then checking the Steele rubber site, they list the two part rubber bushings for Packard for this period. Way back the first time I rebuild mine I used Steele rubber suspension parts. I found a listing showing similar two piece rubber bushings that were listed to fit everything in ’39 except for the Twelve. With the same part for the 110 up to the Super Eight upper outer rubber. Perhaps someone may have copy of the Senior model parts book that lists the Super Eight front end parts and Twelve parts to see what if anything is interchangeable. The design and look are so similar I would have expected Packard to have some interchangeability between the Senior models.
https://www.steelerubber.com/suspension-bushing-30-0341-36
The rubber bushings look right but I can’t match the number to the parts book. Later models I believed also used similar rubber bushings at the back end of the lower control arm where it meets the frame as well as at the upper outer control arm. The ’35-’37 120 lower rear arm has a ball joint with a hollow rubber ball over the end of the arm. The rubber balls are available, when they weren’t, tennis balls were the right size in a pinch.
I would suggest considering the idea mentioned earlier of adding some form of spacer on the sides of the upper outer rubber joints. I do think that some amount of rubber on the sides to help absorb shock would be good vs only a solid metal spacer/washer.
nsbrassnut, thank you for taking the time to explain what you did over the years to keep it driving straight down the road, pretty much none of the front end parts interchange with anything other than the 1507-8,1607-8 and 1707-8. I have 2 comparison photos, the one in the bottom is the original bushing and even though it is beat up it longs up pretty straight. The upper picture is the completely rebuilt front end, every shaft , bearing and bushing replaced less than 100 miles ago with the destroyed encapsulated rubber/ metal bushing. I am playing with different ways of using shims, the best might be a hybrid approach by using a thin metal washer next to the sharp edge of the outer body or shell then use some sort of polyurethane chassis bushing cut to fit for cushioning. A few twelve guys said they have just filled the gap with washers, but I worry about road shock
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1 minute ago, edinmass said:
I would set Castor at 1 degree positive, and see if you get a wobble. The instructions say to "keep the V-12 tight to the specs." But with todays roads, pitch, and speeds, playing around with it is worth the effort. I would go 1/8 toe in as well. Be sure all air pressures are at 45 in front, 40 in rear. Check your ride heights..........
Thank you I will use that as a starting point,
What Say You on camber?
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11 minutes ago, edinmass said:
UNDERSTANDING STEERING WHEEL RETURNABILITY
To get an idea of how the steering wheel returns to the centre while driving, we have to understand the contact patch area of the wheels and the pivot point.
Patch area is basically the area of the wheel in contact with the road. The area is the only link between road and wheel. The pivot point is the meeting point of the steering axis with the road.
This is where the physics of caster angle comes into play. Without the caster angle, the contact patch area will be aligned with the pivot point. When the steering axis is at a caster angle, depending on the positive or negative caster angle, the pivot point will be away from the pivot point.
The positive caster refers to the angle with the steering axis tilted towards the driver. When you tilt the axis away from the driver, it is referred to as a negative caster.
The physics of the caster angle plays an important role in determining the steering wheel returnability
With an understanding of contact patch area and pivot point with respect to caster angle, we can now take a look at the exertion of different forces leading to the returnability of steering wheels.
IMPACT OF FORCES ON CASTER ANGLE
When you rotate the steering wheel on a turn, it generates reactive forces at the wheel. These frictional forces at the wheel contact patch area provide the centripetal force required to make the turn or a circular motion. At a positive caster angle, the patch area is behind the pivot point. When we release the steering wheel, a restoring torque helps align the wheel automatically.
To understand better, consider the zero caster angle where the pivot point aligns with the patch area. Since the centripetal force is acting on the pivot point, there won’t be any restoring torque and your steering wheel will not return automatically.
CASTER ANGLE IN WHEEL ALIGNMENT
During the wheel alignment of a vehicle, a positive caster angle allows the steering wheel to self-centre and increases the directional stability of the vehicle. On average a caster angle can vary between 2 to 8 degrees, depending on the manufacturer requirement.
For wheel alignment, adjustments might be needed for camber and toe angle as well
Apart from the caster angle, when we talk about steering wheel alignment, adjustments might be needed for camber and toe angle as well.
Camber angle is usually visible from the front of the car and impacts the cornering performance by adjusting friction and traction of wheels. The toe angle impacts the sensitivity of the steering wheel for safety concerns.
You don’t have to dwell much on the science behind the caster angle. All you need to understand is that the steering wheel does not return to the centre through external means but just due to a difference in angle. This results due to the manipulating reactive forces on the wheels. Also, find out all the signs of a failing steering system to take timely action.
What do you suppose Packard was saying about castor when they say “castor is zero, but reverse caster of 1/2 a degree is permissible is that a convoluted way of saying positive?
the million dollar question, which way would you go?
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52 minutes ago, kar3516 said:
Ramair,
I bought the 37 twelve as a source of parts for a future twelve purchase that I envisioned down the road. Wood is bad but the sheetmetal is decent. I don’t think the car or the engine has ever been apart and the engine rolls.
Kent
Kent is this twelve a 1506 or 1507 touring sedan? This is my 1938 1603 super eight touring sedan and a picture of my 39 non running 1707 club sedan
( if I was Ed I would call it a parts car) hard to believe it was a running driving car 9 years ago
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3 hours ago, edinmass said:
Poorly made front end bushings are a huge problem today. Many people have stuff made and have no clue what they are doing. I just did a Caddy front end that when the bushings didn't fit correctly, the SHOP replaced them with cut up heater hose, and gave it to the customer. That is the state of the world today. I find almost no shop that services modern cars had people who are qualified to do an actual alignment. Most .........set the toe and go.........A proper alignment on a 39 12 would take many hours..........and almost no one wants to pay a shop rate of 150-300 per hour to have a truly correct alignment. Making shims and adjustments could easily take 6-12 hours of time. Also, spring sag, ride height, air pressure, worn parts, and loading the seats with weight are all part of properly aligning the car. As to how you set it up, I don't use specifications from back in the day........I set them up like modern trucks from the 60's. I would also be suspect of the equipment you are using. I don't like the magnetic units most people use........I work off the rims..........Ed
Ed, I have taken notes on some of your threads on prewar classic front alignment. We spent a lot of time trying to find a competent shop by talking to other prewar classic car owners and other restoration shops, surprise - surprise all the phone numbers I got were either disconnected or the shop specializes in resto- mods . So we used magnetic instrument off the spindles only for the down and dirty check to make sure we could test drive it while we continued looking for a competent shop. I believe I found a competent shop in Pleasanton Calif which is a 125 miles from me. The shop is family owned, multigenerational it is a medium size shop with multiple employees, the owner is on site and he takes the exotic jobs and personally does them on Thursday as he feels that is the day with less distractions. He told me upfront that the car could take a full day and that he will charge for time and materials.
I brought him the Shop manual, owners manual, parts manual and my notes on what was done to the car, my suspensions and my expectations. I was happy to pay his time to sit down and read it.He drove the car, put it on the rack using the alignment system that grabs the rims he then discovered the bushing failure .
Ed i have heard of this failure before on the Twelve , one old time collector said that he had his shop cut shims to put on either side of the bushing to keep it centered. I would think that once it is chewed up inside that would not hold an alignment and would be dangerous. My thought was if one started with new one and then made some thin spacers out of polyurethane with a appropriate amount of gap?
I am also interested in what type of sixties truck do you pattern your numbers off of. The reason I ask is most large pickups and trucks still had straight axles in the early sixties. It would be helpful to know your experience with IFS and how do you balance what seems to be a trade off of road holding, cornering, steering wheel center return and low speed steerability. I do know that these cars are extremely front heavy, perhaps the heaviest. I know you can’t have all four characteristics , so I put it in order of my preference. Packard seemed to go with 1 degree positive camber and zero caster , do you like to keep both side the same or do you shoot for an offset for road crown. Sorry for all these questions but the bushings will be here tonight and my alignment appointment is Thursday morning. Below is a picture of the shim selection that I had Scott machine up so that the alignment shop does not have to. The second pictures are my John Deere 50# suitcase weights for ballast for ride height. Ed if it’s easier to call me please do, thanks
Michael
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2 hours ago, edinmass said:
Poorly made front end bushings are a huge problem today. Many people have stuff made and have no clue what they are doing. I just did a Caddy front end that when the bushings didn't fit correctly, the SHOP replaced them with cut up heater hose, and gave it to the customer. That is the state of the world today. I find almost no shop that services modern cars had people who are qualified to do an actual alignment. Most .........set the toe and go.........A proper alignment on a 39 12 would take many hours..........and almost no one wants to pay a shop rate of 150-300 per hour to have a truly correct alignment. Making shims and adjustments could easily take 6-12 hours of time. Also, spring sag, ride height, air pressure, worn parts, and loading the seats with weight are all part of properly aligning the car. As to how you set it up, I don't use specifications from back in the day........I set them up like modern trucks from the 60's. I would also be suspect of the equipment you are using. I don't like the magnetic units most people use........I work off the rims..........Ed
2 hours ago, BlueDevil said:Here is the 38 front with a new bush on top of the shock.
BlueDevil, thank you for taking the picture, I see your original bushing failed and the knuckle is no longer in the center of the shock arms, I am jealous as yours probably took many decades to slide forward that 1/2”, mine did it in three days
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6 hours ago, gward1211 said:
I have a 1928 Buick Master 5 passenger coupe with a failed universal joint. The 1929 master has an improved universal joint with hardened bushings fitted to each or the 4 pivot points to prevent metal galling, which is common with 1928 and earlier cars. My questions are:
- Can a 1929 uni from a Master can be fitted to a 1928 Master?
- Does the rear end of the 1928 Master gearbox need to be changed to 1929? If so, I can obtain one of those.
- Will the 1928 Master torque tube mate up with the 1929 Master gearbox, if that becomes necessary?
- Failing all else, can a 1928 uni joint be repaired, ie, welded up and machined to fit the retaining rings?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Kind regards
Geoff Ward
Sydney, Australia
I have a 1928 Master 54C country club coupe and I am curious also as my joint has some wear on it.
i will suggest you post this over in the Buick prewar section as the Buick guys are pretty active over there. Also there is a 29 Buick group that a lot of people belong to (not related to this forum) , there are member that have joined that have Buicks a couple years on either side of 29. I believe the editor’s name is McCloughlin like the Canadian Buick, sorry if I misspelled
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1 hour ago, kar3516 said:
I hope your new bushings solve the problem! I have two 37 Super Eight drivers; one touring sedan and one club sedan. I also have also have a non-running complete 37 Twelve touring sedan. If it comes to it I could investigate and compare but a look through an original parts book would be my first step to identify whether the parts are the same for the 37, 38 & 39 Super Eight and Twelve.
Kent
Kent, I have found 2 different pictures of what the bushings looked like in the past, these could be early Packard or someone’s replacement part, as I am sure you know the Packard Parts book is not only difficult to figure out the names they used for parts, but also there are darn few pictures of anything. I did spend a few minutes looking at parts book and my 39 twelve shares these same bushings with 1507 and 1607, so your twelve is the same. I also have a super eight 1603 touring sedan that I drive, it has a few small issues also. I have another 1939 Packard 1707 club sedan that is also non running! What is happening with your twelve?
other good news is after we cleaned oil pan which was not sludged up and took off the tractor oil filter add on and put it back to stock we now have 60# oil pressure at highway speeds, 40 # at slow idle hot engine.
I decided to go with metal shims for now, I picked up different types of rubber sheeting, soft plastic, hard plastic and canvas backed rubber conveyor belting, the only one that looks like it won’t distort and mush out was the hard plastic and it was not going to give at all so the only feature would be prevention of squeak in the future over metal. I have the measurements of the thickness I need and I am open to suggestions of what I should try, not a horrible amount of time to relieve a small amount of pressure to remove bolt.
is about 1/4” thick that I could make a washer 1 1/16” ID and about 2 1/4” OD, I would still have to use a thin metal washer next to the bushing as it has a thin sharp shell that might be a cookie cutter on the rubber
I found something interesting today that I did not notice before. The modern upper bushing replacement has slightly more exposed steel bushing on one side, granted it’s only a 1/16” longer . So as I go to install I think I will put the longer side towards the front which should help me achieve positive castor without a bunch of castor shims, not to mention it will give me a little more gap between front fender leading edge lip. Here are pictures of new bushings, I have been experimenting with different shims, still not happy with all metal, hope to find something to cushion it.
Brake issue with 1948 Lincoln convertible coupe
in Technical
Posted
I to want to commend you for letting us know, so many either forget to post their solution or don’t care. Not only is it thoughtful to do so, it also allows others to search for a solution quickly through old threads