Rocket 88

November 15, 2016

Too bad I don't live closer to this Auction...

.https://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2016/11/15/one-mans-hoard-of-dozens-of-buick-rivieras-to-disperse-at-auction/?refer=news

July 15, 2016

I have done Disc brake conversions on my 57 Olds. and my 64 Riviera.

Used Scarebird on both. No problem, brakes work great.

Also changed to duel master cyl, and booster.

See list of parts used for the 64 Rivera brake conversion below from Scarebird.

Rocket 88

Read instructions thoroughly twice.

Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support crossmember with jackstands. Remove front wheels and drum/hub assembly.
Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by spraying with penetrant oil, then unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo lower drum backing plate nuts, and remove drum bolts. Remove drum backing plate and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly
Slip adapter plate down over spindle with caliper opening to the rear and machined pocket engaging spindle boss. Bracket will fit between spindle and steering arm.
Insert supplied top bolt and lock washer loosely, then reinsert lower bolts. Now torque upper bolt to 90 ft-lbs. and then torque lowers to 75 ft-lbs.
(1961-64 only) Drive out 14mm x 1.5 studs out of rotors, and press in Moser 8368 (1.75”) or 8250 (1.938”) or equivalent studs. NAPA also has 641-3204 (1-5/8”) or 641-1112 (1-15/16” use with ¼” wheel spacer only unless you chase the threads further down the stud). I usually lube up the splines and threads with anti-seize, then press (do not hammer) studs into place. Check to make sure studs are straight and fit inside wheel. 1965 Riviera will not need to change studs.
Clean and repack wheel bearings. Insert inner bearing into rotor, and install new seal. Assemble rotor onto spindle, along with bearing and washer, then tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and new dustcap.
Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner to remove grease and oils.
Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean
Test fit hoses on calipers. Note how hose kicks in towards caliper to clear sway bar. You may need to take an angle grinder to “flatten” the caliper where circled for clearance. Make sure clearance is visible – if it hangs up the hose will leak. Do not grind into sealing surface – be cautious and patient. Carefully remove rubber sleeve on hoses with knife. Hose should run straight down from caliper
Install loaded caliper with bleed screw facing up, and lube contact areas with silicone grease then screw in slide bolts, tighten to 35 foot-pounds. (1961-64 only) Note the third picture – the outer pads will contact the rotor slightly – a moment with a bench grinder will radius it enough to clear. (1965 Riviera should clear fine). We recommend using the softest pads you can find for street use, like NAPA’s TruStop organic. Pads are the same application as calipers. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance.
Hoses should run down from caliper as shown in first illustration, then up to hardline, forming a “J”. Install new hoses with copper crush washers then reconnect to hard line. Some hardlines may have a 7/16” nut – if so, you will need to use NAPA #7828 adapter, or cut off flare, insert 3/8” nut then reflare. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1971-76 Riviera or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Some have used the existing single chamber master cylinder with success. If rear brakes lock up excessively, plumb in an adj. prop. valve in the line going to the rear.
Bench bleed disc master cylinder, mount on car. Gravity bleed first, then pressure/pump bleed entire system and test. You will need to reset the toe-in. Count number of threads per inch at the tie rod sleeve. Divide by 8. This is the number of turns your sleeve needs to be spun to shorten the distance to make up for the thickness of the bracket.
Replace wheels, torque wheel nuts, lower car and carefully test. We use the 30-30-30 method to break in pads: 30 easy stops from 30mph with 30 seconds cooling between stops. Then let cool ½ hour.

Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos

Rotor (1961-64) 1995-99 GM ½ ton 2WD front 86258 BD125206 56258

Rotor (65 Riviera) 1971-76 Riviera front 85537 BD60258 5006

Caliper, LH 1971-76 Cadillac Deville front SE4631 CR83264 FRC4080

Caliper, RH 1971-76 Cadillac Deville front SE4630 CR83265 FRC4079

Hydraulic hose 1977 Riviera front 36797 F97664 BH36797

Inner Bearing 1971-76 Riviera BR5 BCA A5 SKF CBR5

Outer Bearing 1971-76 Riviera BR3 BCA A3 SKF CBR3

Wheel Seal 1977 Riviera front 19753 BCA Part # 8871

Dust Cap 1971-76 Riviera BK7302438 Dorman 13977

Banjo Bolt 1971-76 Riviera 82698 Dorman # 4842061

Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC 10 June, 2009 Rev B

RIV B16 Brackets, Upper bolts(9/16-18 HHCS full), SAE banjo bolts, Cotter pins, Hose locks

April 4, 2016

Anyone looking for a 63 Riv. Not bad for the money. Needs some TLC

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/buick/riviera/1823003.html?refer=news

March 31, 2016

Glad you found the part, NAPA had to also order mine also from another state.

Rocket 88

March 29, 2016

I had a problem with 2 Temp. control valves leaking, and switched to the following to cure the problem. ( NAPA)

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/261942-64-riviera-temp-control-valve/?hl=%2Btemp+%2Bcontrol+%2Bvalve

March 17, 2016

I had the same problem. and found that the vacuum hose to the booster was leaking at the booster, so a small clamp

was used. No more problem!!!

Rocket 88

December 10, 2015

Check my Post --Aug. 31 2015

64 Riviera Temp. control valve.

rocket88

November 10, 2015

I would also like to get a complete broken one, as I have acquired a cable to start working with

to see if I can produce one that will solve this problem.

rocket 88

October 6, 2015

I replaced the entire exhaust from Waldron, had the Exhaust headers powder coated first. (see pic)

Everything fit as it should. no problem. I used the existing hangers , but bought 1/78 new clamps from NAPA.

Since the exhaust is 13/4"

Ask Waldron about a special shipping that will cost 1/2 as much as std shipping. Check if it available in your area.

Note: I changed the tail pipes to come out straight under the bumper. (see pic)

Sorry, no pictures after the install.

Rocket88

September 22, 2015

Check out this 63 Custom Riviera Fast back.

Opinions?????

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.768121519939532.1073741840.622670661151286&type=3

http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/08/a-custom-concept-car-the-riviera-x-11/

Rocket 88

September 1, 2015

When I bought my Riviera, the temp control valve had been brazed in the open position, due to a leaking condition.

The seller informed me that he had purchased 2 original valves that also leaked.

Wanting to do something about this valve, I did some research, and came up with this replacement.

This is for the manual type valve.

I did have to make a mounting plate, that was simple to do.

Check the following photos.

Note: The second picture shows the cable bracket removed and I used it as a pattern to make the mounting bracket

as shown in the 3rd pic.

Not original, but WORKS GREAT!!!

NAPA #935032

Also check ebay.

Rocket 88

August 22, 2015

The bezels are no doubt made in China, so we are at their mercy.

No doubt a minimum is set to get them into production.

What a world we live in!!!!!

GREED, GREED, GREED!!!!!

rocket88

August 21, 2015

I also had a pr. on back order from OPG for 9 months, got a call no longer available.

I don't get it!!!!!

Someone has the dies and won't produce the item???????????????

Checked on plating cost. Was told $275.00 to $300.00 EACH.......

OPG price was around $190.00 Pr.

Rocket88

August 21, 2015

Carlisle is where I had the best luck in finding parts.

I think SPRING Carlisle is best, due to sellers having parts collected during the winter months.

I would also go to FALL Carlisle.

Rocket88

August 15, 2015

I also ordered a pair of taillight bezels for my 64 about 9 Mos ago from OPG.

I just called to check on the order, and was told they won't be getting them.

Like Winston said, Why tool up to make something and then quit making it......this makes no sense.

rocket88

August 9, 2015

I had only done a front disc conversion, on my 57 olds and the 64 Riv.

Didn't think I needed the rear converted.

As stated by Ed, many vehicles used this system for years.

rocket 88

August 5, 2015

I was at one of our many Cruise's and saw this Custom 64 Riv.

Chopped 2"s. 54 Merc taillights. Tube grill.

I sure would like to have them Horns !!!

What do you guy's think?

Rocket88

August 5, 2015

I had no problem with hose leaks. Scarebird does include new banjo bolts.

Did you tighten them enough?

Rocket88

August 3, 2015

https://www.opgi.com/riviera/1964/brake-systems/drum-brakes/BR03203/

This is the one that I used as pictured above .OPG.address.

Works great. Only a couple slight mods needed.

1. Drill lout the clevis.

2. The inner and outer 2pc. firewall holes did not match. Use a drum sander to match them.

3. Use a dremel tool to cut away enough of the inner fender panel to get access to the distribution block.

it will be covered by the rubber splash shield. note line wrench.

3/16" lines to front, and 1/4" line to rear junction block.3/16 to rear wheel cylinders from rear block.

4. Picture looking under dash.

5. Move seat back for needed room to work.

Be sure to order 2 wheel disc.

Rocket88

July 30, 2015

I had checked some other disc brake conversion kit mfg. and most do not give you part numbers for parts in those kits.

That means that you would need to go to that kit mfg. to replace any parts needed for replacement.

As listed above Scarebird sends that list.

I just go to my local NAPA dealer.

I would also suggest you replace all brake lines, and rear wheel cylinders, as I did.

RivNut

It was interesting to see that Scarebird had changed some parts used back in 05.

July 29, 2015

You should have used the Scarebird conversion system.

Here are the instructions for that system that I have used on my 57 Olds, and my 64 Riviera.

These ins. may help.

Scarebird only sends the Backing plates and bolts. All parts needed can be purchased from NAPA---

Wagner--and Raybestos. All part numbers are listed with the instructions.

Yoy should also change to a Dbl. master cyl.

I can send instructions to do so .

clholsters67@verizon.net

Read instructions thoroughly twice.

Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support crossmember with jackstands. Remove front wheels and drum/hub assembly.
Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by spraying with penetrant oil, then unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo lower drum backing plate nuts, and remove drum bolts. Remove drum backing plate and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly
Slip adapter plate down over spindle with caliper opening to the rear and machined pocket engaging spindle boss. Bracket will fit between spindle and steering arm.
Insert supplied top bolt and lock washer loosely, then reinsert lower bolts. Now torque upper bolt to 90 ft-lbs. and then torque lowers to 75 ft-lbs.
(1961-64 only) Drive out 14mm x 1.5 studs out of rotors, and press in Moser 8368 (1.75”) or 8250 (1.938”) or equivalent studs. NAPA also has 641-3204 (1-5/8”) or 641-1112 (1-15/16” use with ¼” wheel spacer only unless you chase the threads further down the stud). I usually lube up the splines and threads with anti-seize, then press (do not hammer) studs into place. Check to make sure studs are straight and fit inside wheel. 1965 Riviera will not need to change studs.
Clean and repack wheel bearings. Insert inner bearing into rotor, and install new seal. Assemble rotor onto spindle, along with bearing and washer, then tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and new dustcap.
Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner to remove grease and oils.
Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean
Test fit hoses on calipers. Note how hose kicks in towards caliper to clear sway bar. You may need to take an angle grinder to “flatten” the caliper where circled for clearance. Make sure clearance is visible – if it hangs up the hose will leak. Do not grind into sealing surface – be cautious and patient. Carefully remove rubber sleeve on hoses with knife. Hose should run straight down from caliper
Install loaded caliper with bleed screw facing up, and lube contact areas with silicone grease then screw in slide bolts, tighten to 35 foot-pounds. (1961-64 only) Note the third picture – the outer pads will contact the rotor slightly – a moment with a bench grinder will radius it enough to clear. (1965 Riviera should clear fine). We recommend using the softest pads you can find for street use, like NAPA’s TruStop organic. Pads are the same application as calipers. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance.
Hoses should run down from caliper as shown in first illustration, then up to hardline, forming a “J”. Install new hoses with copper crush washers then reconnect to hard line. Some hardlines may have a 7/16” nut – if so, you will need to use NAPA #7828 adapter, or cut off flare, insert 3/8” nut then reflare. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1971-76 Riviera or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Some have used the existing single chamber master cylinder with success. If rear brakes lock up excessively, plumb in an adj. prop. valve in the line going to the rear.
Bench bleed disc master cylinder, mount on car. Gravity bleed first, then pressure/pump bleed entire system and test. You will need to reset the toe-in. Count number of threads per inch at the tie rod sleeve. Divide by 8. This is the number of turns your sleeve needs to be spun to shorten the distance to make up for the thickness of the bracket.
Replace wheels, torque wheel nuts, lower car and carefully test. We use the 30-30-30 method to break in pads: 30 easy stops from 30mph with 30 seconds cooling between stops. Then let cool ½ hour.