strictlyballroom
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Posts posted by strictlyballroom
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Hi
I have a leaking carb issue on my 57 Thunderbird.
The carb is original and recently rebuilt and worked fine until recently.
One one of the pics you can see a green arrow and this is where the fuel floods out when cranking or running the engine.
The other photo with a green arrow shows a hole, where the fuel may be escaping from.
It's really difficult to tell and I'm hoping someone has experienced this before.
Many thanks
Mike
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My mechanical skills and experience extends to all things prior to 1950. I am currently working on a hot-rod, which has a 70's Mopar engine fitted. Can anyone help identify what these two items are? It would save me sitting on Google for a couple of hours. Many thanks. Mike
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I can now advise what the cause of the problem. In brief, the cylinder head gasket was leaking and coolant was getting into cylinder one preventing the plug from firing. The engine had been rebuilt, but from what I can tell, the head had not been torqued properly.
Thanks to all those for your helpful suggestions.
Mike
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I really appreciate your comprehensive reply, and I will certainly let everyone know the outcome. Mike
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Many thanks a couple of new ideas to try. Mike
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Yep, I think you’re absolutely right. Once I’ve taken the head off I’ll post with my findings.
Thanks for your help.
Mike
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The engine is original to the car, and it has been recently overhauled prior to my purchase.
I too thought it was probably a valve, but the good compression threw me.
Mike
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The dizzy does turn ACW so the firing order was a red-herring.
The engine is original, but recently rebuilt.
The plug and lead is good - all checked three times.
The mystery continues.
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The same web site that gave me the firing order also stated the direction of the dizzy was CW, but I should have checked, which I will do tomorrow. I really don’t think the leads are a problem given I am getting a really strong spark.
i don’t remember a vacuum port, but I will look tomorrow also.
it would appear based on the replies so far there is nothing obvious for the cylinder not to be firing.
mike
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Yes the rotor is pointing at cylinder 1 at TDC
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3 minutes ago, joe_padavano said:
Did you happen to swap the no. 1 plug to a different cylinder to see if the problem is the plug or the cylinder?
Yes I did, the plug is fine.
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My new 1950 Nash Rambler is only firing on 5 cylinders. Confirmed by when you remove the lead to cylinder 1 it makes no difference. By contrast, remove any of the others and there is a noticeable difference.
There is a good spark at cylinder one - tested with inline tester and the more traditional way of holding plug to earth (really strong Blue spark).Looking into the spark plug hole, the valves seem to be opening when the engine is running.The real mystery, the internet tells me the firing order should be 153624. However, it's set-up as 142635. I did try and put the leads as they should be, but the car would not even start. The fact is the car runs quite sweetly with the incorrect firing order, save for missing on one cylinder.The engine is the correct 1950 Nash Rambler straight 6.I performed a Compression test (I only tested 3 cylinders)1. 105 (the offending cylinder)
2. 90
6. 90More mystery, the offending cylinder has good compression.I have tried to test the timing, but I could not get my hands on a timing gun that would work with 6 volts, but seeing as she runs pretty well apart from a slight misfire I don't think the timing has anything to do with it.When you remove the plug after running the car for a short-while, the plug is wet so there is fuel getting to the cylinder and you can see it down the plug hole.Yes, I know I should take the head off and see what's happening, but I have just bought this car and I am not near my workshop and hoping I have missed something really obvious.All suggestions welcome.Mike -
My new 1950 Nash Rambler is only firing on 5 cylinders. Confirmed by when you remove the lead to cylinder 1 it makes no difference. By contrast, remove any of the others and there is a noticeable difference.
There is a good spark at cylinder one - tested with inline tester and the more traditional way of holding plug to earth (really strong Blue spark).Looking into the spark plug hole, the valves seem to be opening when the engine is running.The real mystery, the internet tells me the firing order should be 153624. However, it's set-up as 142635. I did try and put the leads as they should be, but the car would not even start. The fact is the car runs quite sweetly with the incorrect firing order, save for missing on one cylinder.The engine is the correct 1950 Nash Rambler straight 6.I performed a Compression test (I only tested 3 cylinders)1. 105 (the offending cylinder)
2. 90
6. 90More mystery, the offending cylinder has good compression.I have tried to test the timing, but I could not get my hands on a timing gun that would work with 6 volts, but seeing as she runs pretty well apart from a slight misfire I don't think the timing has anything to do with it.When you remove the plug after running the car for a short-while, the plug is wet so there is fuel getting to the cylinder and you can see it down the plug hole.Yes, I know I should take the head off and see what's happening, but I have just bought this car and I am not near my workshop and hoping I have missed something really obvious.All suggestions welcome.Mike -
Hi I have just bought this 1950 Rambler, and I need to touch-up some of the paint - does anyone what this color is (if indeed it's an original color). Ideally a paint code, but I can work off a name. Thanks Mike.
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Many thanks for your replies and despite being told by the seller that it's an overdrive thank heavens I never pulled the cable out when driving, because as I have rightly been told this is not an overdrive, but moreover an emergency option when needing to tow or push start the car. I really appreciate your replies and special thanks to Spinneyhill for copies of the manual.
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Hi I have recently bought a 42 Chrysler Windsor Coupe with fluid drive. Nobody seems to be able to tell me what the large chrome knob that sits beside the steering column. It's connected to a cable that runs to the transmission. However, I have been told that Fluid drives do not have overdrive, but I can't think what else it could be - I don't fancy engaging it when doing 50mph down the freeway. Any insight would be helpful. Mike
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Hi David - I thought it might help if I included a photo of my shoes. I attached white markers so you can see where the linings start and stop.
Mike
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Hi David - Thanks for this lead, these guys didn't appear anywhere on Google when I was searching. Do you anticipate the early Ford kit would drop straight in with retaining the existing stub axles, and therefore no change to the front suspension?
Hi Phil, I did consider a servo booster, but it's my understanding that servos reduce the pedal pressure rather than actually improving the brake efficiency. That said, you are saying that it solved your problem - did you therefore have a similar problem to me, and if so where did you source your booster?
Really appreciate your help.
Mike
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I own a 42 Continental Conv, and it resides on the Isle of Man (between Ireland and England). Despite rebuilding the brakes, and renewing the linings the brakes are not up to the job on the hills we have here. On a hill, the car literally won't stop!
I was wondering does anyone know of a disc conversion kit out there? I will probably only do the fronts.
Alternatively, has anyone had any experience of the replacement kits that Bob Drake does?
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike
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I need some help with the glove boxes on my 37 Zephyr. I need to source the cardboard glove boxes themselves, but I also need to locate the locking/latch mechanism. As you can see from the attached photos I have nothing on the reverse of the doors to latch the glove doors. Any help appreciated. Mike
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Hi Waldren, I haven't started work yet as too many other projects needed more urgent attention - have you taken a look at your rams yet?
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Thanks for this, I didn't appreciate that the overdrive would be a single control. I have yet to start rebuilding the overdrive - wish me luck and thanks.
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Are you saying that I can stripdown the rams. I have to admit from memory there didn't seem an obvious way of getting into the ram as it looked like it was a pressed unit.
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I need one hub cap for my 42 Lincoln Continental Conv - can anyone help?
I have tried the suppliers listed on LZOC, who have provided me with lots of spares for my restoration, but the last remaining hub cap has proved elusive.
Leaking carb teaser - where from????
in Ford Thunderbird
Posted
Thanks Jon, in all likelihood the only one of your suggestions that I suspect it might be is a sticking float.
Are you saying that if the float sticks open, the fuel effectively floods out of the hole in the casing that I marked with a green arrow?
Thanks
Mike