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About Cashmoneyspeed

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  1. Message sent. A 455 would be nice, just not for this car. I just wouldn't use it to its potential.
  2. I have a 1986 Buick Regal with a 307 olds V8 that i'm pulling out so i can install a SBC 350 along with a matching trans. I've been told that the TH350 trans has 3 diffeent tailshaft legnths, so how can i tell which one it is that i need? How much difference in them is there?
  3. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Wyatt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Put an Olds 350 in it, it is a true bolt in. Anything else is going to require various engine specific brackets, and possibly some fuel line and electrical re-routing. </div></div> Idealy i would love to find a 70's oldsmobile 350 (gold color) to put in but at this point, for the right price i'm willing to have to buy the chevy frame and motor mounts along with a little bit of fuel line re-routing.
  4. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brh</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can't tell too much by your pic--could be my computer but of what I do see this engine is pretty much done. Sorry, hope ya find something better dirt cheap. </div></div> It's a video(new to posting those), but basically that's my finger pushing on the bottom of the bearing cap to the #1 piston. Yeah, thanks to everyones input, i decided putting any money into it would be a waste and it's currently almost out of the car.
  5. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JohnD1956</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Chances are a 307 motor can be found relatively easy, which would allow use of the car while searching for a better quality motor. </div></div> Yeah, i'm going to see if i can hold out for a 350 first, rather than have to pull the engine twice. Thanks for all the help guys.
  6. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob Call</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Cash Since this Regal is not a Grand National I assume it doesn't have to be factory correct. My suggestion is that you replace the Olds 307 with either a Buick 3.8 V6 or a Cnevy 350 of 86 or older vintage. This is the same car as the Chevy Monte Carlo, Pontiac Grand Prix and Olds Cutlass all of which could be had with the Chevy 350. Either engine should be a bolt in with factory parts. Chevy 350's are everywhere and complete rebuild kits are reasonably priced. And, they don't have plastic timing gears, they have sprockets and a chain. Chevy trans to engine bolt pattern is slightly different than BOP, but, you should be able to find a 350 with a TH350 or TH400 trans at a reasonable price. </div></div> It definately doesn't have to be factory correct for this car. A sbc 350 with the TH350 is what i was wanting to put in it when this engine went, just happened at the wrong time so i'll be shopping around a little bit before i get one unless a deal comes up. I'm pretty familiar with engines, i just haven't torn down or rebuilt an American V8 since auto tech school years ago, so if i run into any problems i know i can get straight forward answers on here. Any idea if the stock trans would bolt up to the 350? I know it won't hold up to the extra power for very long but just in case i have to budget with the holidays coming quickly and all. Here's the car, daily driven year round the last couple years while i've been building a Caprice.
  7. Going to just pull the stock 307 and hopefully find a reasonably priced 350 to put in it's place. here's how much the #1 piston was moving.
  8. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Oxnard Montalvo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The plastic pieces could be from the timing gear. They are coated in plastic to keep them quiet when the chain runs over them. As said, if you can move a piston 1/4 inch without moving anything else the engine is a time bomb. </div></div> Yeah, the nylon pieces are from the cam gear. 5 of the 8 rod bearings can be moved by hand so needless to say i'm in the market for a 350. Here's a quick video that shows how much the #1 rod bearing moves by hand (i'm new to posting videos so not sure if this will work).
  9. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brh</div><div class="ubbcode-body">O.K. get your point---while you have it open check the crank and rod bearings. Worse comes to worse you can fix the underneath and not have to open it up any further until your cash position improves. You can drive with a bad camshaft and or lifters. Since its a V8 everything does not have to be 100% to get from point A to B. </div></div> Yeah, that's the plan. Hopefully i don't use the last $$$ i have trying to get it fixed and then something else come up. Was planning to get an engine stand and a 350 anyways over the winter to rebuild for the show season. Just can't do it right now and i would hate to buy someone else's junk engine, only to install it and have more problems than i already do.
  10. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ted sweet</div><div class="ubbcode-body">piston pin area is broken, keep driving and you will have a rod thru the side of the block. </div></div> It's currently taken apart and not being driven. Only babied it home a few miles on Sunday and then when i started it on Monday, there was no noise or oil light but i figured the pump was bad so started tearing it down anyways. So far i figure on replacing the gear set, oil pump, and at the very least the #1 rod bearing. Just looking for any info as to how the rod bearing issue could be related to everything else or if i was just lucky i had the oil pan off and was poking around looking for anything out of place. If it makes any difference, there has never been any abnormal noise from the engine, no smoking or loss of oil, and i have meticulously maintained it. Oil/filter is changed every 4-5 months (1000 miles).
  11. Short block isn't really an option as money is tight, i need a working car to get around right now, and don't have an engine stand or hoist. I figure i'll replace the rod bearing that's got the play in it and possibly the others along with the gear set and oil pump and hope for the best.
  12. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rbl2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you can move one piston 1/4" and not move the others I think there's more to worry about then cam gears. </div></div> I realize that but like what else besides a rod bearing could it be that's worn out, faulty, or broken? And how, if at all, could it be related to the gear getting worn and clogging part of the oil pickup? It was running like it was brand new until the other day when the oil light came on and it ticked a little bit so i let it cool off, restarted it and it was fine, no noise but the oil light came back on after it warmed up so i tore into it and found the nylon pieces clogging the oil pickup. So, i figure that it's not too hard to do or expensive but i don't want to put it back together without fixing everything that's questionable the first time.
  13. Yeah, it's been pretty reliable up until now. So, i'll get a gear set for it as well as a new oil pump since it's already out, but i'm still concerned as to why the #1 piston has some movement to it where it connects to the crankshaft.
  14. Not sure if this is the right section but i have been reading on here for a few days and i think i may find the answers i'm looking for. Here goes: I have an '86 Buick Regal with a 307 engine that has 95,000 miles. The Choke/oil light is coming on as soon as the car is warmed up, goes out when accelerating, but comes back on when decelerating and at a stop unless i put it in nuetral. Engine is running real hot and starting to knock a little from under the valve cover( sounds like lifters). Seems like low oil pressure. I pulled the oil pan to get the the oil pump and the oil pickup screen was clogged with plastic/nylon particles and a couple small pieces of metal, so that may be my low oil pressure issue but i figure i'll replace the oil pump since it's already off anyways. Oil pump gears look good, no scoring or broken anything. I believe the junk in the pickup is from the cam gear. So, i plan on tearing that down to see what the issue is and most likely replacing both the cam and crank gear along with the timing chain. Also, on the #1 cylinder (driver side front) i can move the piston up and down by hand about 1/4" inch, everything else is tight. What could this be? Any suggestions on if i should just replace the cam gear if that's what's damaged or replace the entire gear set? Also, i've seen some "performance" gear sets and wondered if that was something i should look into or just a waste of $$$ being that the engine is all stock besides an open air cleaner and the smog pump being removed. Here's the plastic crap i found in the oil pickup