Ignition/key question - 1950

Was wondering if anyone could provide some input on whether or not a 1950 Chrysler Windsor utilized 1 key for the ignition/locks or if they were separate keys. The car I recently bought did not have the keys as the owner had lost them. I am trying to find the easiest method to replace the keys (have it rekeyed, replace ignition/locks etc..). Appreciate any suggestions!

They are seperate keys. One for the ignition and one for the doors and the trunk. And another one for the glove box.

Thanks again Paul, I was afraid of that! lol Guess I'll get with the previous owner to make sure they can't find the keys before I go to taking everything out to have it rekeyed.

In the case of my '50 DeSoto, one key works the doors and ignition. The other works the trunk. I don't recall ever trying to lock the glove box so can't comment on that.

Dave Duricy

You're right daveduricy! The 50 Chrysler has one key for the ignition and doors and another for the trunk. I should have checked instead of relying on memory.

Two keys were standard, these upgrades were gold plated, 10K yellow and white gold.

Purdy.

I had a 50 DeSoto basck in the 60's and the ignition lock was so worn that it could be turned by using a small pen knife blade. As I recall there were two keys. I never locked anything so only used the ignition key.

In my seeming never ending quest to get my 1950 rekeyed, I am now looking to see if there is a code on the ignition switch or cylinder that I can use to rekey. Does anyone know if this is an option?? I did find a code ( U-34-50), not sure how to decode that or research it just yet.

Pulling the switch looks to be something I may want to do as a last resort. Either that or have a locksmith come out to do it for me. Thanks again for any input!!

For our 50 chrysler (No keys existed) I removed the door lock which is fairly easy and the local chyrsler dealer service rep fiddled with it till he got a key that worked.

The service manual explains how to remove the door lock depending on condition (rust) patience may be a prerequisite. There is a clip holding the lock tight in the door skin which has to be slid partially out (toward the rear of the door) this will release the lock.

There is a small hole on the jamb end of the door in line with the lock if you use a pick with a 90 degree bend you should be able to hook a hole in the retaining clip to slide it back ( it only slids back enough to release the lock it doesn't come completely out). It might be easier to see with the door panel removed it's been a couple of years but I think i had the door panel off.

If no one has changed locks the door and ignition should be the same.

I also needed a trunk key to remove the tumbler you are supposed to have the corrct key for the lock. We destroyed the tumbler getting it out but were able to replace it with one bought on ebay.

Hope this helps,

Jay

Thanks Jay, after spending numerous hours sweating and yelling and throwing things in frustration, it took me about 30 seconds to pop out the lock with your wisdom and input!! lol Appreciate the help for sure....you da man!!

Jim

Hey everyone,, just wanted to say thanx to jazzer3, i just bought my first classic car,,, a 1950 desoto and the first thing was to get it rekeyed and i could have not done it if it wasnt for your post,, now if all goes well the door locks have not been changed and ill have keys for this car

Hey there yesterday I posted this,

(Hey everyone,, My name is Polly Hatter from North BaY Ontario,,, im kinda new to this game and bought my first classic car,, a 1950 Desoto custom 4 door,,,

Now i know alittle about cars , more about doing body work , but i was poking around . I took the top off what i the was the carb where im used to having a air filter in there and it was full of green oil. Now my first thoughts were what the **** is this until i seen on the inside it was marked oil with a line. Ive looked everywhere to find out what and why i cant find anything. Would anyone out there in DeSoto land please know what im talking about .)

And got a great answer,

(OK dont panic, what you have is the oil bath filter of the era before paper air cleaners came on the market, they were used by many makers.

Without getting all technical they work just fine with engine oil at the correct level and, depending on driving conditions, the oil needs to be changed at something like 10,000 mile intervals.)

But when i went to check it all i got was the syria thing which was really weird a 9 in the morning ,,lol,,, but i just want to say thank you to whom ever sent me the answer i was looking for .