LenHammond

Year:___1990____ Coupe: __X__ Conv:____ Mileage:__~166000________ Considered Correct? (Y/N) Location:____Hartland, Michigan____________ Title: Clear__x_ Salvage____ Other___ Any Accident History? (Y/N) Unknown, but I do see evidence of damage previous to my ownership Asking Price: $1500 and willing to negotiate Willing to take trade (Y/N) maybe but not likely Exterior Color: White Interior Color: Maroon Leather Paint Original? (Y/N) No Paint Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Most of it is fair to good but there are some areas that are poor Belt & Bumper Molding Color: (Black/Body Color) Body color Body Dents: (Y/N) Yes If Y where___Damage on r/h front fender_______________ Body Rust: (Y/N) Yes If Y where__Rear quarters - forward of both rear wheel wells________________ Windshield Chipped or Cracked? (Y/N) no If Y to what extent? Vent Glass Intact? (Y/N) Yes If N please describe which one is damaged and how damaged. Rubber surround molding for windshield condition? Fair to poor. Leaks at top right corner. (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) (Coupe only) Rubber surround molding for rear window condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Fair Out Side Mirrors Intact? (Y/N) Yes Headlight Motors Function Correctly? (Y/N) YES!! Tail Light Lens: (Clear/Cloudy/Cracked) Cloudy but intact (Convertable only) Convertable Top Material: (Vinyl or Cloth) Convertable Top Color? Convertable Top Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Please describe any flaws or problems with the convertible top. Interior Original? (Y/N) Yes 16 Way Seats? (Y/N)No Works (Y/N)Standard power workd on drivers side but not passenger side - suspect cabling in the door hinge Suede bolsters? (88 only) (Y/N)no Seat Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor)Good Drivers interior door panel condition? Good(Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Passengers interior door panel condition? Good (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Center console top armrest condition? Fair to poor (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Door weather stripping condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor)Fair Headliner Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor)Good Carpet Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor)Good to fair Original Floor Mats: (Y/N)no Floor Mat Condition: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Condition of Steering Wheel Leather:(Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Steering wheel was replaced with a very nice wooden wheel - probably the single nicest piece on the car. The air bag was removed for the new wheel before I got it. Cause not known. Sun Roof? (Y/N) no Works? (Y/N) Functional Keyless Entry? (Y/N)Yes Both Remotes? (Y/N)Yes Problems with Electronic Dash items? (Y/N)No If Y describe problems: Power Windows Work Correctly? (Y/N)Yes Power Seats Work Correctly? (Y/N)drivers yes. passengers no. suspect wiring harness issue in door hinge area. Power Door Locks Work Correctly? (Y/N)yes Power Antenna Work Correctly? (Y/N)yes if kept lubed Original Sound System? (Y/N)yes Factory CD Player? (90-91 only) (Y/N)no Sound System Fully Functional? (Y/N) If N what are the problems (i.e. tape player, CD, speakers, noise):tape player refuses to transport tape. Aftermarket Sound System Equipment? (Y/N) no If Y describe: A/C Functional? (Y/N) no If N describe problem:leak in condensor. All other A/C components replaced or repaired. Worked for a while until the condensor started leaking. Has the A/C been converted from R12 to R134A? (Y/N)Yes. Previous owner did or had the conversion done. This lousy conversion job is what caused the compressor to fail and fill the system full of debris which led to many components to be replaced and the entire system cleaned. Does the suspension require any attention? (Y/N) no If Y describe what is needed Tire Brand:BF Goodrich = second set of Michilins Remaining Tread:some = second set lots of tread Are All Tires Matched? (Y/N)yes = second set yes Factory Wheels? (Y/N) no If N describe the non stock wheel first set are 14" Buick rims second set are 16" Dayton wire spokes Factory Wheel Center Caps Condition: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Missing Caps? (___4_) number Any Brake Components Replaced? (Y/N)yes If Y describe the part(s) replaced and when? replaced pads and fluid Last Time Brake System Was Flushed? year or so ago Original Engine? (Y/N) yes If N when replaced and how many miles on replacement? Original Engine Rebuilt? (Y/N) Don't think so If Y when and how many miles ago? Does Engine require attention? (Y/N) no If Y what needs to be done. When was last tune up? a couple of years ago Does the engine, cooling system, power steering, or brake system leak any fluids? (Y/N) yes If Y describe in detail what is leaking, to what extent. Power steering has a hose leaking How often do you change the oil? 2000 to 3000 miles Original Transmission? (Y/N) unknown - I have never replaced it. If N when replaced and how many miles on replacement? Original Transmission Rebuilt? (Y/N) unknown If Y when and how many miles ago? Does Transmission require attention? (Y/N) no If Y what needs to be done? When was last Transmission Service? unknown Any Transmission Leaks? (Y/N) no If Y to what extent? Have CV joints been replaced? (Y/N) yes If Y when and how many miles ago? replaced one axle at 135000 I have (all/most/some/no) receipts for this vehicle's service history. None (or, for example I have (all/most/some/no) receipts for service for the last _3__ years and __30000____ miles) Does the car have the owners manual portfolio? some For 90/91 Reattas only, does the owners manual portfolio contain: Craftsmen?s Log (Y/N)no Tire gauge (Y/N)no Flashlight (Y/N)no Buick Road Atlas (Y/N)no In General, What items need attention? Fuel pump needs to be replaced. It runs fine if you squirt fuel down the intake. My Reatta Drives: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) good I am the ___3___owner of this Reatta. I am at least the third owner. The guy I bought it from bought it used. Unknown what was before that. I have owned this Reatta for __3___ Years and/or __11___ Months. Contact Me at _810__ _632__ _2038___ or email me at ___lenhammond______@_comcast___._net__

Final post on this suspension failure. I did get a used one from the 89 Riviera that was close to me. I did find that new ones were said to be available at somewhere around $250 plus $60 for the rubber isolators. Figure in another $30 or more for the bolts and nuts and it came to more than I have right now. The used one that needed a ball joint was $40 and the ball joint was $30 so that was acceptable. I ended up replacing a body mount nearby that had the rubber isolator protuding out like a bad peanut butter sandwich. Anyway, with your help, this Reatta is again back on the road. Thanks to all who made suggestions, as the information was helpful in finding what I needed. The car-part website gave me what I needed to find some used stuff and I will use it again to find replacement parts for ALL of the old stuff I own. Thanks again to all, Len

Car-part.com is pretty neat. Looks like there are two of them just a few miles away. One from a 89 Riviera and one from a 91 Seville. I'll give a call shortly. Thanks for the help. PS Mine's a 90 coupe. Len Hammond

Hi all, Been a while since I have been here and for the most part the old Reatta has been running well and been a daily driver. However, a couple of weeks ago while my wife was driving it it had a suspension failure. The left lower control arm had the from nut break off. Made it a bit awkward to get it home. Anyway, I finally got around to getting on the jackstands today and I am going to have to replace the left control arm. Looks like the frame is going to be OK but the nut end of the front link is 'gone'. It had jsut broken off and departed the car. I'm a little crazy and a pretty good welder but I'm not nuts enough to try to repair that front facing rod to get new thread on it. I need another one. I guess the real question is: are they out there as a new part? something that fits a newer car but is interchangeable with the Reatta or do I have to try to find a "Reatta Unique" part? Are there serviceable ones in the junkyards? IIRC the ones under my 94 Olds 98 (long gone) looked very similar. Obviously without it here to take measurements I can't tell it it would have fit or not. Thoughts? Thanks for the advice. The last round of visits resulted in keeping this old girl on the road for a couple of years. I like the car and would love a pristine speciman but until I get back to work (live in the Detroit suburbs and hit but the downturn here) I have to try to fix this cheap - I have lots of time but not much of a repair budget. Len Hammond

Thanks for the information that this blower fits so may vehicles. Made finding a new one cheap pretty easy. New one works great. Other posts suggested that the evaporator might be coated with lint and dust and blocking air flow. This particular car was pretty clean. I did investigate the evap with a flashlight and mirror and it was pretty clean, so I put in the new blower. That has to be about the easiest blower change I've ever done, except maybe my 69 Buick Special with the straight 6 Len Hammond

The blower in my white 90 doesn't always blow. I found that if I rap on the blower motor it will often start but it doesn't always stay running. I suspected dry bearings so I removed it and put a couple drops of oil into the bearing areas. Seemed to help it run faster on the bench but it would not always start when power applied. Always ran if you got it started by turning the fan cage a bit if it didn't start on it's own. Now, I'm thinking a flat spot in the armature. Has anybody had success by opening the motor houseing and replacing brushes? I realize the houseing is a crimp together housing and that the crimps almost always are a one time use so another method of securing the housing would be needed. What other blowers will fit the houseing. I have a 90 Century that I could rob parts out of if it might fit. Haven't had the time to look yet - maybe tonight. Other thoughts? Thnaks Len Hammond

Final Post: Finally got this car running. Turns out that the timing chain broke. Timing gears were fine. Replaced as a set. Ended up having to change out the oil pans gasket to get it to stop leaking oil. Starts and runs great now. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and support. I'm finally able to drive the car on a daily basis and feel relatively confident that it will bring me home. My guess is that this car had little maintenance from it's previous owner(s) and that all of the back work is now due. Still working on the environmental stuff, but that is for a different post. Again, Thanks for the help. Len Hammond

Had my 90 coupe for just about 6 months. Bought it to be a daily driver. So far I have had it running all of 3 months and put about 2000 miles on it. The rest of the time it hasn't run. Didn't leave me stranded anywhere but my own driveway. Had nothing but problems with it. I have always thought they were one of the best looking cars that GM ever put on the road. This particular speciman looks pretty good, better from a distance than up close. It had 127k on it when I got it and 129k now. I've put a third again into it what I paid for it. Getting frustrated with it. Still not ready to bad mouth the Reatta in general, just think that this particular speciman was not maintained well (or at all) for a long time before I got it. If I ever get it running again, I'll probably keep it a while. If it gets too expensive to get going, I may decide to part it out to keep a bunch of other Reatta's going for a while. Or may try to find a better one than this one and use this one for parts. Not sure. But, I, like others on this forum, turn around and look at it when I walk away, been a long time since I felt that way about a vehicle. Last time was when my '74 Land Cruiser was new and shiny.

My 90 has an aftermarket wooden wheel in it and the air-bag removed. It was liek that when I got it. It has the tilt wheel and it looks like the OEM wheel was removed and an adapter was installed and bolted down using the OEM center wheel nut and then the wheel and spacers were bolted to the adapter. Again this was done before I got the car. The wheel was a bit wobbly so I took it apart to fix that and got to see how it was done. I didn't detect any wiring that went with teh air-bag. I did get to make a wire and fix the horn button so now I can hear the horn relay click but the horns were rusted off - have to track something down one of these days. Len Hammond

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now I am confused. If you have spark (any spark) and fuel, it should make some sound when cranking even just like it is trying to start. Just for S&G at this point I'd be checking to make sure that the right plug wire order is there: one even and one odd on each coil. From radiator back the order is 1 & 4, 2 & 5, 3 & 6. Have seen a 3800 start and run relatively well even with two wire swapped though. </div></div> OK, I know it has been several weeks since I worked on this car. Was out of town and busy at work or school the rest of the time. Now I can get back to it for a bit before the next rush. Spark. That's what I thought too. If there is fuel and there is spark, an engine *should* make some kind of sounds like the fuel is burning, even if the timing is Waaaayy off there should be a bark out the intake or exhaust or a brief change in cranking RPM or something. In this case there is nothing. My test plugs show a yellow spark when connected to a single plug wire with the other plug wire on the plug in the cylinder - doesn't matter which one or which coil of the coil pack. All are alike. Checked all of the plug wires and they are going to the correct plugs/cylinders, so that is right. Double checked the FSM to be sure of the cylinder numbering. Pulled the plugs again and most were wet again and some were sooty, so something was trying to happen in there. Two of them were carbon shorted but the wet carbon was easliy removed with a paper towel between the electrodes. Left the pl;ugs out for two days just to let any residual fuel in cylinders evaporate away. These plugs were new less than 1000 miles ago and were running fine until that fateful day described in my first post. Hitting -defrost- and it quitting and not running since. Using two test plugs on both wires of the same coil results in a better looking spark across both plugs. All three coils show the same results. Tonight I bought another set of new plugs and am trying that to see if there is any change. Let you know in a little bit. New plugs. Double checked wires from coils to proper cylinder. I think I got one bark/sneeze and that was it. #1 plug dry. Double check FSM for proper numbering of cylinders. Had that right also. Just for S&G I swapped some plug wires just to see if I could get a backfire or something. No change. Checked fuel in fuel rail. Fuel is there and under pressure, haven't made a fitting yet to get to a gauge. About the only thing I haven't changed is the computer. And the computer does not give any codes other than "12" indicating that it is fine. Where do I go from here? Take it to a dealer? ($) Is there anything in the transmission control circuits that would cause it to not run? Is there a rev limiter in the computer. This thing missed a shift about a week before it quit and bumped up against what felt like a rev limiter. Is there such a thing on a car? I've never heard of it but a lot of motocycles now have them. Just grasping at straws and looking for a cause that can be seen. Thanks for the help so far. Len Hammond

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">First, problems in secondary ignition (module, coils,wires, plugs) will not set any codes. Cam sensor will set a code (soon after turning the key on) but will not prevent an engine from firing.</div></div> OK, so we know that it isn't a cam sensor because no codes. Cranked it long enough to get oil pressure. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just for S&G there are two different balancers and crank sensors. Since the correct crank sensor for your car is the four wire, that would be obvious on installation that the harness did not match but check to make certain the balancer has two interrupter rings and not just one. </div></div> OK, we have the right parts. I installed a 4 wire crank sensor and the new balancer has two interrupter rings and looks like the old balancer minus the cracks. Alignment of the rings into the slots in the interrupter is just about centered. The FSM calls for a specific number but that just locates the ring in the center of the sensor slot. Took great care with the alignment as the book says that the new sensor will fail if the ring hits it. This one might have touch lightly when cranking; is that enough to destroy a new sensor? <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> You know you have good pressure to the fuel rail but are you sure it is gasoline and not water ? This time of year a very low tank may have a lot of condensation. Is why I pour some known good gas directly into the manifold (never tried spraying on screen, I just pull one of the vaccuum hoses from the four-way on top of the manifold and inject about a 1/2 oz there). </div></div> OK, there is fuel in the fuel rail, pressure unknown but high enough to spray all over my hand when released. Smelled and felt like fuel and evaporated like fuel and left nothing behind that evaporated slower, like water. The fuel tank is full as it was filled the Friday evening before the Monday morning it quit with only a 4 mile ride to church in between. I found the 4-way on top of the manifold that you use. I just pulled the aircleaner and sprayed right at the Mass Airflow Sensor screen with a screwtop, refillable, shop air pressurized can like a spray paint can. (can be pruchased from JCWhitney) Atomizes fairly well. Know I am getting fuel to the cylinders as the plugs were very wet with fuel. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> About now I generally connect my magic light to one of the spark plug wires and see if it flashes when cranking. Can do the same thing with a timing light (have a couple of cars that still need the timing set). </div></div> Magic Light? One of the Champion neon light pens that can detect spark through induction? Have one but garage is lit well enough to render it too dim to see. Years ago I made a spark tester from a spark plug with the ground electrode removed so the spark has to jump from center to shell and I soldered an alligator clip to the side so you can ground it and mount at the same time. Always seems to be a good indicator of spark quality. Have used it since the early 70's when I made it while working in a lawn mower mechanic. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If all else fails there is a 6 page step by step description in chart A-3 of section 6E1-A in the service manual "Cranks but does not run". </div></div> Saw the troubleshooting chart in the FSM but have not had the time to do everything on it. Will have to make a gage adapter to test fuel pressure accurately. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Is generally good but always seems that the rattle test surprises me - once had a cooling fan come on for that one. Below 500 rpm, spark is completely unders the ISC control. Might also be aware that I have two brand new 3800 ignition modules here that tested OK in the store multiple times but would not start a car (tried on three different cars). Now I always keep a known good module/plate/coilpack around (left over Magnavox makes a good spare). </div></div> So it is possible that I got a bad module from the parts store. Both modules and both coil packs I have, in all combinations, produce spark but it is a weak, yellow spark and not a nice fat blue one. Regardless of the coil used. That being said, one of the sparks was internal to a cylinder with a wet plug and the other being my test plug. Maybe, the internal plug was causing the weak spark. Next session I work on it I will have to test that theory with two plugs outside in free air and clean & dry and see if I get better spark. Maybe change out the plugs again or put the ones that came with the car back in. I have almost always used Delco plugs in the GM cars I've owned, but is there a better plug for the Reatta? Thanks for hanging in there with me, we'll get it running yet. Len

OK folks, This is where it stands. Still not running. Replaced the Harmonic balancer, crank sensor, Ignition module, and a couple weeks ago the coil pack, and plugs and a couple plug wires. Today I changed out all 6 plug wires to the right ones not just some new ones for my truck. I pulled all 6 plugs and all were wet with 3 of them sooty as well. Cleaned and regapped them to .040. Someone mentioned that a bad ground from the batter to the chassis might be a problem. To that end I installed a cable from the negative terminal of the battery to the right strut tower where the support stay for the radiator frame is mounted. The aft end of the one you need to move the extract a battery. Cleaned the paint and corrosion from all of the contact areas before tightening that down. I know there is fuel in the manifolds because I blew bunches off the plugs. Cleaning the plugs consisted of washing them down with contact cleaner and blowing them out with dry compressed air. When I pressed on the fuel pressure port in the fuel rail it shot fuel out. I am going to have to make a fitting to get a gauge on the fuel rail to determine exactly what kind of pressure I have. About the only thing I didn't change out is the cam sensor and magnet. What else is left to try? I suppose that I could try a computer. I'm getting just a bit frustrated that this thing just won't run after I have put a couple hundred bucks in it.. I've got to be missing something. Probably something simple. With the battery disconnected to change out the crank sensor and the ignition module, there are no codes set in the computer and it flashes the 12 code indicationg that it is functional and fine. Chat with you all later. Len

I believe that it is ignition. I did try the fuel in the intake and got no barks. Actually put it in a spray can with pressure and used a spray nozzle that misted it some what and sprayed it into the intake while cranking. No joy. Well, I'm off to find a crank sensor and a harmonic balancer. Balancer has a cracked hub. Located parts not too far away and open on a Saturday. Gonna get a balancer & seal and the Crank sensor. Then I'll take the next step with the module. Thanks for following this thread and helping me get this thing running. I would like to take it on a trip next weekend from Michigan to Tennesee. A friend of my wife's is getting married and we're going. Just a question of what we take, my Reatta or her Olds 98. Just the two of us so naturally I would like to take the Reatta. Len

I believe you about the fuel pressure. I can know that injectors are sensitive to pressure fluctuations. While I have not worked much with automotive injectors, the fuel nozzles in turbine engines are very sensitive to flow rates and spray patters for proper combustion. I'll check it when I get the ignition repaired. What should the pressure be? Just got the harmonic balancer off. Rubber is definitely debonded from the hub. Also, the hub is cracked at the keyway. There is some seal wear on the balancer hub indicating that the balancer has been cracked a while. Also, now that the balancer is off it looks like most of the oil under the engine is coming from that from crank seal, so I need to change it as well. Think I'll change the crank sensor while I'm there. Next question. There is a small shock absorber device mounted in front of the balancer. Is it absolute necessary to have that vibration dampner installed. It doesn't look like it moves very much. My 3.3 Century doesn't have one and I don't think my 3.8 Olds does either. Thanks Len

Probably is a bad balancer. I'll try to find one this weekend. As long as the balancer is off, I'll change out the crank sensor, too. The parts place said there are two crank sensors, 3 wire and 4 wire. Guess I'd better take it apart first then chase parts. There was a lot of corrosion between the Ignition module and the mounting bracket. I cleaned that off but don't know if the module is bad or not. AutoZone tested it as good, but.... I may throw one of those at it if the crank sensor doesn't get it going. Does GM use a heat sink paste between the module and the bracket? This was nasty enough that I couldn't tell. I read a post somewhere in this forum about the difference between teh Magnavox and Delco module/coil pak combo and being able to install the, perceived, better Delco units. Is that the preferable way to go? OK, now to the IAC. Where is it? I am assuming that it resides near the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor someplace. I'll look for it in the morning. Thanks to everyone for the help. Len